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Thread: Backyard Box Building - The Build

  1. #46
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Setting fence for slot

    This pic shos at the bottom the fence, in the middle the cutter with the blade at its highest point with respect to the fence and beside that a piece of the ply that will join to the slotted piece. At the top is a metal straight edge.
    needless to say this is done with the router OFF !! To achieve this the fence is adjusted accordingly and then clamped for ALL cuts of this size.
    If you look closely there is a tiny gap between the ply and the straight edge which means that the inner edge of the slot as we cut it is just a hair more than the ply thickness. This translates into a tiny excess of the exposed edge which we will later on either sand to flush or use the router with the guided cutter to do the same job
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  2. #47
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Slot cutting

    If you have a reasonable mental picture of the joints you will realise that the slots are receptacles for the rebates and as such do not need to run all the way to the edge of the panel. what we do need to do is stop short of breakthrough or else we will have a load of little square holes to fill. Not the end of the world I accept but this is the proper way. To this end we have to mark a stopping point as the cut is underneath the material. This could also be done with the router above the material as a freehand tool. in this case it will have its own guide or fence to set the position of the slot. Some folks may find this easier in as much as you can see what is happening.
    Follow the pics
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  3. #48
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Just a note on this slotting process. The cutter will cut blind into material and i find it best to start about an inch from the far end and then carefully feed towards your end mark. This is the tricky bit because the cutter is trying to push the material OFF of the fence so keep a good grip on it. Think about the rotation of the cutter. Once you have that little bit done it is relatively easy to feed towards the near mark as if you were cutting a through slot only you stop short by about 1/4". Lift off by tipping the sheet off of the cutter .

  4. #49
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Bases and tops

    In these parts the slots fly through. I have different slot offsets because I have secretly decided to treat the baffle in a different way
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  5. #50
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Test piece

    OK here is a test piece of the 3/4" birch intersecting with the slot on one of the sides. Note the slight excess of the red ply side. This is ideal and will be cleaned off flush later. This a test for the cut for the baffles and backs.
    The height of the cutter is different for the 3/4 material than for the 1".
    The fence has been moved in till it is just touching the cutter.
    Next shot B & B's all with rebates
    Next shot Back sitting snug in slot in base. As you adjust your test piece cutter depth you want to achieve a snug but not tight fit.
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  6. #51
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Tops and Bottoms

    There is a little work to do on these. The little extensions of the slot need to be removed to allow the rebate and slot to intersect.
    Lift the router height up a good bid and follow the pics. always have the material moving ON to the cutter --- The set WRT the fence is the same as for cuttting the rebate. ie in tight hence all these little lop off cuts are flush with the rebate cut. Nice and gently with these cuts.
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  7. #52
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Dont worry about all the rags at the edges they sand off way easily. Not a concern.
    First pic is a base and a side interlocking.
    If you recall we also have the bases/ tops sized to the baffles/ backs and have cut the rebates WITH THE SAME SET OF THE CUTTER so they are all even with respect to the sides with which of course they must intersect.
    Next pic a base / side and back all standing up on their own.
    Two sides etc
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  8. #53
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Important series

    The first pic shows Top Bottom Baffle and Back all locked up nicely. No glue as yet these are only a push fit but importantly the concept of this construction is clearly visible at last.
    We know from the efforts that we took that these panels are even in width and also that the rebate cut is the same all round because we did it with the same setting of the cutter. The sides then offer on to the rebates and will do so in a conventional box because we have done all the slots WRT sized DEPTH dimensions and height dimensions. Remember all that effort making heights widths and depths exact wrt adjacent panels.
    Now I have given myself a little headache because I have to shoot the side 3/8" above the top edge. I have yet to cut my slots for the tops. I have marked them up manually taking my size from the inner edge of the baffle rebate.
    Follow the pics pls
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  9. #54
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    More pics

    Looking good. Now dont get me wrong this is quite a technical process and I confess to having made a few BOO BOO's in particular as you can see I have overshot the slots towards the top on the inside of the sides. I may well have breakthrough when i come to round over the top edges. The visible bit in the 2nd last pic does not matter coz there is a 3/8" x 1" strip runs front to back that will cover it.
    However there is the basic box standing up all by itself with NO glue or screws and better still I can see that the edges and joints are all going to shake hands as they should.
    All the effort that went into the cutting and sizing pays off big time at this stage.
    The next bit is more fun in a way coz now we are starting to see a proper speaker. Here is a list of the next stages with pics of course.

    Bracing
    Baffle Cut outs
    Ports ( Zilch wake up )
    Rounding off corners
    Painting
    Connectors
    Filter Components ( Active set up here so not a full x/o ) ( Rob )
    Veneering


    See you soon its that time again.

    ANY QUESTIONS OR COMMENTS PLEASE LOB EM INTO THE PARALLEL THREAD
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  10. #55
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Just a thought

    If you are working with 3/4" ply only it would probably be best to use a 3/8" straight cutter for all your slotting and rebating that way the lip is a bit beefier. I would still use a 1/2" flute like I have for all your edging/ sizing.

  11. #56
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Here we go again

    In the last post the box components are now all fitting and sitting nicely.
    Next step is to start building things up starting with gluing up the top /bottom/ baffle/back.
    Make sure that all the edges are true to its buddy and then using sash clamps or ratchet straps hold it all in place till the glue sets.
    Watch out for slippage as the panels may want to slide out uf place on the viscous glue. Usually a tap with a block / hammer will put things back where they should be.
    You can use a few screws here if you wish just remember to sink the heads a little.
    Next step is to fix on ONE of the sides.
    The reason for this is that any bracing that you intend to add should be done at this stage. Front to back is a good idea as is side to side.
    Make sure your sizes are correct - but you can pick them up from existing parts of the box.

    Pic 1 Three sides glued up
    Pic 2 nice tight joins eh ?
    pic 3 Gorilla glue seepage
    Pic 4 Gorilla glue seepage
    Pic 5 Rear brace being put in position
    Marked area is where the compression driver will get some support.

    A small note about gorilla glue. This stuff swells up like expanding foam but on a smaller scale. I quite like the behaviour of this stuff except that I did find one area of a joint where it had caused the joint to separate in spite of being strapped up. Caution is advised in this regard. Plenty of straps and protect your edges or the straps will crush them a little.
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  12. #57
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Brace

    Here are some more of the rear brace. 1" ply from the wastage.
    You can see clearly where the driver will locate.
    This component is glued in place and then a few screws for good measure.
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  13. #58
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Oops wrong piccy

    First pic in last post is wrong.
    Here is the correct one
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  14. #59
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Next step

    If you have made appropriate bracing then you are ready to attatch the other side.
    For my purposes the rear brace is all that i am chosing to put in at the moment. The reason for this is that my design is neat to say the least and I am aware that some jiggling may be needed. Cant do that if the box is awash with bracing. As it happens it looks as if I will be using ferrite slots (2405) and these are a little bigger than the alnico version. As a consequence the baffle layout will move slightly .
    I will be able to shoehorn in bracing once I have cut my driver holes.
    Anyway on with the side.
    It is usually a good idea to sand off the sharp edge of the rebate to prevent it gouging swarf down into the slot plus it makes location and starting this last piece considerably easier.
    I have elected to use some screws to eliminate the glue expansion issue.
    Not a problem with PVA incidentally.

    Note I have started to fill the little voids and tiny gaps that are left.
    No more Chinese plywood for me. Nice on the outside, crap on the inside.
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  15. #60
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Router again

    Here is the router with the roller guided cutter being used to tidy up the small excess that we allowed on to the exposed edges. There is only about 1/32 here and an orbital sander would deal with it too but the router is quicker and more exact. Then sand.
    The second pic is me sorting a mistake I made some while ago. I had had thoughts of a thicker baffle protruding forward of the front edge of the sides and had cut my slots to suit annnnnnnnnnd theeeeeeeeeen I remembered that the 2380 horn extends over on to the edge of the sides as you will see.
    Actually its in the plans but its along time since I looked at them.
    Theres a lesson in there somewhere.
    Anyway I have lost 1/2" of overall depth. Not really the end of the world
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