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Thread: Backyard Box Building - The Build

  1. #31
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Router

    Ok what we have here is a nice new sharp cutter and as a treat to myself I have used the offcut from the birch sheet as a new top surface
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  2. #32
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Under cover as you can see. As in a previous pic you can see the direction of rotation and the direction of the workpiece.
    IF THIS IS NEW TO YOU I WOULD RECOMMEND TRYING OUT ON A FEW BITS OF SCRAP FIRST
    It is important that you do not get greedy and only take a whisker off at a time
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  3. #33
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Clever clogs

    Here is a series of pics of the cutter in use. I made a big boo boo though as you can see. I was trying to push the material through with one hand and take a pic with the other. As you can see in the third pic the tool is already starting to dig in and then in pic 4 -- mayhem. Not staged i can assure you. The moral of the tale is keep two hands on the workpiece. There is a way out of this and that is to set up a guide on the far side of the cutter actually a jockey wheel or roller would be ideal. this would be set in such a way that the material cannot move towards the cutter.
    WATCH YOUR FINGERS !!!!!!!!!!!!!! and!!!!!!!!!
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  4. #34
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    So having quickly chopped up another piece to replace the cock up I have processed all the long edges and reduced the size to 15 3/4".
    The best way to do this is to pass all the bits through and make a new stack and then pass them through cutting the opposite edge but at a slightly smaller size. Remember just a whisker at a time. If you are doing this you may notice some parts of an edge may not have contact with the tool but that is ok because as you gradually reduce down to the desired size those low areas will come in to contact. Eventually you will get down to a dead size with all of all the edges having been cut and straightened.

    What I have done so far is to even up the depth dimension of the tops, bottoms, and sides. It is not necessary at this stage to do anything to the top and bottom edges of the sides but the tops and bottoms now need to have the width graded to our dead size. This is by a happy coincidence the same size as the width of the baffle and back.

  5. #35
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    If you read the beginning of this thread you will notice that the point is to do this with the most basic tools.
    I am fully aware of the Festo guide system.
    Mods can you please move this and the last post over to backyard box building.
    Ta much

  6. #36
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Just an observation----- those pics in the last post show a cutting tool spinning at 20000 rpm and the dig camera has stopped it dead,

  7. #37
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    refer to #34

    The next step is to dead size the WIDTH of the tops bottoms and the baffle and back. We are looking for 17.5"

  8. #38
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Just so you understand fully where we are going with this, the point about all this panel sizing is that when we come to cut the rebates all the panels will sit in nice and snug.
    I am scratching my head at the moment as to how to display the rebate layout as an exploded diagram. Anyone who is a dab hand with CAD want to lend a hand here. PM please

  9. #39
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Righty ho here we go - again. Now we are sizing the WIDTH of the tops bottoms backs and baffles.
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  10. #40
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    So now we have most things dead to size barring two HEIGHTS namely baffles and backs AND the overall height of the sides.
    I have sized the baffles and backs because they fit inside other panels but the side ends top and bottom are exposed. It is useful to leave them be and to trim them with a guided cutter once the box is built that way they are exact. As it happens for my purposes this is irrelevant since I will be rounding over the corners as per the L300.
    It will be worth your while to have a look at the original sketches esp #3 for this.
    Guided cutter in action is pic 2 here the roller picks guides the cutter
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  11. #41
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Piles

    By now your panels should be looking all neat and tidy and square etc. some faces may well stand out as being scabby so they go inside the box and it is worth marking them.
    It stands to reason that since every dimension has been proved the boxes will come out square and parallel.
    It may seem a bit laborious at this stage but you will get in the swing of it. The sizing process pays dividends later on as the joints will just slip together.
    Now we can start to move on to the jointing.
    Next post.
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  12. #42
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    One last comment, all that sizing business occurs because we are down and dirty, live in a swamp and do not have access to a good panel saw.
    If you do have access then follow the principles nonetheless, We want widths the same heights the same etc.
    The process thus far will allow you to make tidy BUTT jointed cabinets where you would glue and screw or pin the joints. from here on we are going to make things even tastier and stronger.
    Last edited by macaroonie; 08-12-2007 at 09:40 AM. Reason: Fell asleep

  13. #43
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    JOINTING

    If you take a peek at the sketch posts at the start and one i will repeat here you can see that i plan to use a 1/2" rebate at the corners and not shown , the baffle and back are rebated into the sides and top/bottom.
    Everything interlocks.
    To achieve this we need to cut slots and rebates on the panels.
    This is why the fluted cutter is 1/2" (12.7mm ) since a slot can be made with one cut.
    It is crucial to do some test cuts on scrap offcuts in order to get the correct set of the tool with regard to the fence.
    Look at the pics of my test piece in the next post
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  14. #44
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    JOINTING 2

    OK the previous post shows a slot being cut. It has to be in such a position that the face of the intersecting panel is not left hanging over the edge. you can use a piece of the ply as a guide but probably the best thing is to do a test cut of a couple inches and offer up the intersecting material to see how it sits. You will most likely have to adjust the guide fence.
    The ideal is to have a whisker of the exposed edge proud of the face. Just enough to sand flush.
    The other intersecting panel has to have a rebate cut and to do this the fence is moved in to just touch the cutter.
    There is a little more to this when we actually cut the panels but in the meantime this is an example for youze to mull over.
    I'm going off now to try to rustle up some sketches of the rebate plan.
    Some of the cuts have to stop shy of the end of the panel.
    You will see-----
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  15. #45
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Back again

    Thanks for your patience as I put this together. As it happens the picture taking and editing plus all the posts takes a load more time than the actual woody business.
    To summarise we have seen how to cut and size panels accurately and thus far we have only used a ripsnorter and a router and a measuring tape plus of course the BACKYARD.
    With that info you can make accurate BUTT jointed cabinets, ie where the panels have no rebates or biscuits or locking mitres. If that is as far as you want to go fine you are set. You will need a set of sash clamps , a drill and suitable screws and glue.
    The router will do all your driver cut outs as you will see later on.
    I am assuming post veneering on all the variants of this thread.
    So, onwards ----- now we have to do all the slotting and rebating to make all those nice tidy panels slot together.
    I was going to try some diagrams to illustrate this but decided that pictures would be better.
    For a simple rectangular box where the material is all the same thickness the slotting and rebating is really easy since all your depth setting is the same, however I am using two thicknesses of ply and aiming for L300 rounded corners etc so as you will see there is some added complication for my project.
    The next entry is a clarification of the setting of the fence with respect to the cutter to achieve the right interface between joining panels.

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