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Thread: 2235+2123+2344 project - baffle layout?

  1. #1
    Senior Member jerv's Avatar
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    2235+2123+2344 project - baffle layout?

    Got my newly reconed 2235H's back today, and now I have finally accquired all units needed for a new project: 2235H, 2123H and 2425H with 2344 horns.

    Any ideas on front baffle layout? I have toyed with these sketches (see below), but am undecided and I feel some new input might help. (Sorry for bad drawings - all I have available is MS PowerPoint).

    No1 : One box - MF/HF units shifted to one side (mirror pairs)
    No2: One box - all units in line
    No3 and 4: Separate box for MF/MF, two variants.

    Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

    Espen
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  2. #2
    Administrator Robh3606's Avatar
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    Hello Espen

    Hey this cuts close to home! I ran an E-145, 2123, 2425/2344 set up for quite some time. Really liked it. You best bet would be to offset on the baffle. I ran mine off-set but not enough to really make much of a difference. I personally would try to run all the drivers on center and off-set the lot on the baffle. Here a picture of the the centered system with the 4344's right next to them. The entire driver set less the 077 is on the same axis but off-set on the baffle.

    Figure you want at least 5 cubic ft for the 2235 and spliting the boxes up may make that harder to do based on space limitations if you have any. You are going to want the 2235 up off the floor a bit as well. The 2344 should be very close to ear level so you have to juggle with the whole package to get it all right. I see you have the spacer like on the 4430/35. You may want to have another look at that as the 2123 voice coil is not in the same plane as the 2235. I would try it both ways to see which sound better.

    I like your drawings. Can't wait to see what you come up with. Please post some pictures and keepo us updated as you build them up.


    Rob
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  3. #3
    Senior Member jerv's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input, Rob. I see you've gone the same way before (more or less). Nice systems!
    Yes, I also think that offsetting the drivers on the baffle would be best, and that splitting the boxes would make a very huge system.

    I toyed some more with powerpoint, and came up with this 250ti-inspired version. Waddya think?
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Storm's Avatar
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    I like it!

    Good job!

    -Storm


  5. #5
    Senior Member pos's Avatar
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    I am also trying to build a similar system (but I only have the 2123 so far...).
    I will try a 4412-like layout (the speaker is supposed to be on stands, or even soffit mounted).

    The 2123 and the 2344 are verticaly aligned to reduce phase problems, and the offset will be handled using delays in the active crossover.

    Here is a drawing
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  6. #6
    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    Look again at L250. The drivers are more vertical-in-line than you propose.

    http://www.lansingheritage.org/image...50ti/page1.jpg

    Rob's appear to be absolutely vertical, but offset.

    Not relevant, but I've never liked the look of L250 asymmetrical triangle as an object....

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    Senior Member SMKSoundPro's Avatar
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    I was always taught that in-line all of your drivers faces, then time-align all of the drivers voice coils so that everything lines up across the baffle and also in time as the wavefront travels across the room.

    Maybe I am not writing this very well, but hope you understand my description.

    The above baffle description may appear boring and un-interesting to look at, and the box may be bland, but there are a Multitude of grill fabrics to play with, and some incredible wood veneers to inlay and have fun with, too.

    (Thought: Maybe that is why so many of the early audiophiles built the speakers in the walls of their custom homes, and covered them with large fabric covered panels. And everyone is looking for a remodeling contractor who has un-earthed these rare older speaker systems from behind their hidden out of the way caverns, completely protected from the harsh elements, and willing to pay outrageous prices for the parts!)

    In the end...

    How Does It Sound? (2235+2123+2425+2344=proven combination)

    That IS what matters.

    Scott.
    ps. In watching the "market," it seems to me that no matter what, the box always seems to end up worth-less. It is the drivers and xovers that increase in value.
    One step above: "Two Tin Cans and a String!"
    Longtime Alaskan Low-Fi Guy - E=MC² ±3db

  8. #8
    Senior Member SMKSoundPro's Avatar
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    This being said...

    Everytime I build an enclosure, I treat it as though I am building a fine quality cello. I strive for attention to details in the joinery, lumber and fit & finish.

    The strings of the cello are the JBL drivers.

    When it all marries together, well, it should truely be a symphony!

    Sit back and enjoy!!!
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  9. #9
    pentictonklaus
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    No3 and 4: Separate box for MF/MF, two variants.

    Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.


    Just to give you some idea how seperate boxes with similar drivers would look like.
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  10. #10
    Senior Member 1audiohack's Avatar
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    Baffle Layout

    Hey JERV;

    You might give the "rack" method a try.

    One soon wearies of making entire system cabinets to change one driver.

    It does not look like furniture, but not totaly unfinished either.

    Here is an example, post pic's when you can.

    Have fun,
    1audiohack.
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  11. #11
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    My advise is dont attempt to time align it physically by using a baffle step on the 2344 if you plan to space it up against the 2123.

    This will result in near field reflections from the spray off the 2344 from the 2123 and will grossely color the output of the 2123 (I leant this the hard way).

    Tweaking the response in the 2123 crossover region is far more important.

    Ian

  12. #12
    Senior Member jerv's Avatar
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    Baffle prototype

    Thanks again for all input.

    I've made a baffle prototype layout, as inspired by the 250ti. I will not make any baffle steps for physical time-aligning the drivers - the various offsets will be compensated for in the crossover network.

    Next step is a proper box and then measurements.

    What do you think?

    (240ti alongside).
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  13. #13
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    I hope I'm not out of line in suggesting this, but have you considered an alternate flare to the 2344?
    The DDS Eng 1-90 Pro and 18Sound XT1086 will work well in the same range (they're actually superb) and fit flush with the front panel, also making it look more 'of a whole'.
    http://www.eighteensound.com/index.a...roduct&pid=178
    http://www.ddshorns.com/catalog.php?page=ENG190Pro

    Otherwise, I like the design, especially the trapezoidal cabs. I have a friend whom I've convinced to come along the path of high efficiency Pro drivers and we have a similar design that we're working on. Nominally it's 2226 - 2123 - BMS4552/DDS flare and a pair of 12" sealed subs.

  14. #14
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    It will work okay,

    If you were to consider tri amping think about an 093Ti and 044 tweeter instead of the horn. Also look a dusting the compression driver diapgragm or the 093Ti and 044.

    Ian

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