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Thread: Backyard box building.

  1. #16
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Duffinator

    There have been some speakers over the years in plain birch cabs and they were fine if you wish to tolerate end cut ply. Klipsch did some as basics and some Euro company probably from Sweden or Finland. It works fine as long as you have good grade ply and can keep the tolerances of your work.
    No reason not to in my opinion.

  2. #17
    J.A.F.S.
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    BIRCH CABS

    Just add some MacEwan's Scotch Ale and you are good to go...

    staggering happily
    Amazed I'm still alive!
    Tim

  3. #18
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    Mac, great idea for a thread, especially for the wood-working dysfunctional folks, i.e. ME!

    May I also suggest the use of hearing protection when using these machines of mass destruction?

  4. #19
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Just lifting

  5. #20
    Moderator hjames's Avatar
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    It may be wet but hopefully you didn't get all the flooding I saw around Fripp's place in Dorset or Bredonborough.

    http://www.dgmlive.com/diaries.htm?a...r=3&entry=7303

    and

    http://www.dgmlive.com/diaries.htm?a...r=3&entry=7297
    2ch: WiiM Pro; Topping E30 II DAC; Oppo, Acurus RL-11, Acurus A200, JBL Dynamics Project - Offline: L212-TwinStack, VonSchweikert VR-4
    7: TIVO, Oppo BDP103D, B&K, 2pr UREI 809A, TF600, JBL B460

  6. #21
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    No we get more of a continuous drizzle. It probably amounts to more water overall but then we need it for making whisky

  7. #22
    Senior Member Russellc's Avatar
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    Say, Macaroonie,

    I sent you a pm, but also decided to post a shorter version of a question I had that others might also see it as well. When you "true" the panels using the router table
    contraption, I dont quite understand a thing or two: First, you left a couple 1/16ths or so to allow for this truing. You said to take it off "a little at the time" and you also mentioned it taking a few passes to true a side, then flip the board and true the other side, etc. What confuses me is it seems like when you push the panel between the cutter and the "fence" you clamped to guide the panel with, doesnt it remove all the material in one pass, or do you continually "tighten" the clamp/guide after each pass/side of panel? same question for when you true the other side of the panel, does the guide need to be adjusted in?

    Thanks,

    Russellc

  8. #23
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Yes to your question the 'fence' moves in incrementally untill youi get the correct size. Pardon me I missed that one

  9. #24
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    moving up


  10. #25
    Senior Member Russellc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by macaroonie View Post
    This is a great thread! Thanks for all the trouble, and for answering my post. I have every intention of following this out to completion with my next project, and have a few more questions about your latest posts. I will post them as soon as I have them "put them into words." I am trying to understand each step so I can clearly see them in my mind. Then, I should be able to proceed to sucessful completion.

    thanks again,

    Russellc

  11. #26
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    De Nada

    Anything you think I missed chime in - it is really hard to publish what you carry in your minds eye plus all that piccy taking and editing makes the mind wander from the task at hand.
    I started gluing up this evening using Gorilla for the first time. Interesting stuff
    that seems to set very strong.
    I will deal with the assembly soon prob tomorrow, thus far all you have seen is the panels push fit together. No hammer action either just a little dunt here and there with my forehead

  12. #27
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    Thanks for the view! It's been real helpful as I am cutting and routing too (4345 clone).

    Why did you opt for a Dado and butt joints rather than rabbet/dado all around?

  13. #28
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Keeping it simple. No 45deg cutting which can be a headache with primitive tools. In any case the cabs will be veneered after assembly so the joints are not visible. this way i can trim the tiny excess that I have built into the edges down to exact size with the face it meets.
    Bear in mind I have only used one cutter from start to present.
    I've seen commercial V groove mitre tables at work and they are way accurate and big and expensive. I cant really compete with that.
    Secondly I have seen so many particle board cabinets that have split at the mitres due to impact or damp. Mine will not since the ply is WBP and there is no immediate joint at the edge.
    Well thats my excuse anyway your honour.

  14. #29
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Nearly forgot

    Remember that I plan to round over the front to back edges as in L300 hence 1" stock sides and base / top. I feel this lends itself better to that end.
    The pic here is self explanatory
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  15. #30
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    moving up


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