Don, everytime I open these attachments they end up way too small to read. What am I doing wrong? There's something I'm missing..........
Charles.
Don, everytime I open these attachments they end up way too small to read. What am I doing wrong? There's something I'm missing..........
Charles.
they should open with internet explorer.just move your mouse icon over the image and a small square should appear in the bottom right hand side of the image.just click on it and it should bring it upto size for reading.
chris
I don't know if this might be the issue but you can disable Automatic Image Resizing in Internet Exploder too -
Thanks guys, it works now.
Charles.
Hi Chris send me a PM with your PH# and i will share with you what i have heard about those L200,s. I have seen those around town.
So what!? You sayin' they're sluts!?
Yes that could be the case.
But can't you:
* take the LE85 out of the L200 cab,
* replace the H91 with an H92 (or 2212),
* place the LE85/H92 in an DYI 12" x 12" open baffle/stand with the L91 velcro'd on the front,
* place this assembly on top of the L200 cab,
* run the amp output through a crossover that splits at 8500 Hz,
* run the 8499 Hz and below signal to a 3110 crossover mounted in the L200 cab,
* run the 8500 Hz and above signal to the 077/2405 also sitting on top of the L200 cab in a DIY open baffle/stand,
* run the high frequency wire leads from the 3110 crossover out to the LE85,
* run the low frequency wire leads from the 3110 crossover to a 136A (or 2231 or 2235) woofer in the L200 cab, and finally
* cover the original LE85 cutout and one of the two ports in the L200 cab?
This assumes that the LE85/H92 doesn't need an enclosure and that its absence from the interior of the L200 cab doesn't much matter.
Sure... but that doesn't sound too attractive.
This will not be equivalent, however if you are willing to go through with the first bit you can build a new crossover from info posted here on this forum by member "4313B" that is equivalent to the L300's N1333.
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...read.php?t=166
Widget
Lots easier to just drill a big hole in the back of the cabinet and put a small dog house over it. Heck, if I could get three H92 horns reasonably, I'd drill a hole in the back of my cabinets and just epoxy a PVC cap over it leaving room for the driver. Could even fit a piece of PVC pipe in the hole (~2" long x 6" (or whatever) dia) and make this removable for easy driver replacement.
If you replace the crossover with a N3133 or equivalent and use all of the appropriate drivers and horns, the only other issue would be the tuning of the cabinet... tune it to ~34Hz or thereabouts and you will have a system that sounds like an L300...
Realize that buying used parts on eBay, you will likely have some or all that are not up to spec. The best way to go is to buy blown drivers and have them reconed and diaphragmed by a good JBL service center.
Widget
Excellent advice. Thanks.
I am too uncomfortable with my woodworking skills and my lack of the right drills, saws etc. to want to attempt to cut into these beautiful cabs. Maybe if the "out of the box" experiment works well sonically, I can consider having this cutout done in the back of the cab for the LE85 to stick out.
BTW, I have picked up three 2312 horns (the pro version of the H92 horn) on eBay in the past year for reasonable prices. Good luck on your project.
The "Out of the box" approach will work experimentally (done it myself, actually,) BUT with the woofer so low in the L200 cabinet, you'll have lousy coherency.
Installing the UHF driver is no biggie using a stock hole saw of the correct size.
I'm with Todd with respect to the long horn. Bite the bullet and cut the driver clearance hole in the rear of the cab. If you're uneasy about doing that yourself, any local cabinetmaker or woodworker can do it for you. I'd be surprised if it cost more than $150 to have it done professionally.
The difference in depth of the driver/horn combination is ~3.25". I'd have to measure to determine how far the driver would stick out the back, but I'm betting a closed-cell foam gasket alone could make an adequate seal.
[I also like Todd's PVC cap idea.... ]
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