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Thread: Need Crossover advice

  1. #1
    Senior Member LE15-Thumper's Avatar
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    Need Crossover advice

    I feel like a fool here. I have homemade L-300's I bought from a cousin. LX5 and N7000 crossovers. LE15H, LE85 and 2405 (pro 077) . I am not sure if my cousin had hooked up the xovers correctly. The woofer is connected to the LF of the LX5. The input to the N7000 connects to the HF of the LX5. The horn connects to the LF of the N7000 and the 2405 to the HF of the N7000. Is this correct ? What if I hooked the horn to the HF of the LX5 and then just hooked the input of N7000 to the main (amp) input at the LX5 and then connect the 2405 to HF of the N7000 as if adding a super tweeter ?
    Which is the best way ?
    Also, I have seen many posts about phase and running the mid out of phase. If I hook up the horn plus to plus and neg to neg would it be in phase or out ? Has JBL thought of this in advance or is it up to the user to reverse the leads to the mid ?
    TIA
    LE15-Thumper
    "Give me JBL, or give me death"

  2. #2
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    Re: Need Crossover advice

    Hello and welcome to the forum

    LX5 and N7000 hookup
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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    Re: Need Crossover advice


  4. #4
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    Hi

    is the above connections apply to ALL JBLs set-up??

    My home made 4343 have the following parts:

    LE15a
    2121
    075
    375/2309/2310
    LX5
    n7000
    custom made 250HZ crossovwr (external) for the LE15A

    my current connection are RED to RED, BLACK to Black which EXACTLY the same as the above connection, BUT, should I connect SOME with RED to BLACK to have the CORRECT set-up...Pls advise.

    Thanks

    Tom

  5. #5
    Senior Seņor boputnam's Avatar
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    Re: Need Crossover advice

    Originally posted by LE15-Thumper
    Has JBL thought of this in advance...
    Just "plug and play" - that is, follow the wiring scheme as on the schematics and the other diagrams Giskard posted here. Should be all good... I would not cross RED and BLACK unless you're inventing something...
    bo

    "Indeed, not!!"

  6. #6
    Senior Member Guido's Avatar
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    Hey Bo you were short this time

  7. #7
    smartpolo
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    Quote Originally Posted by boputnam
    Just "plug and play" - that is, follow the wiring scheme as on the schematics and the other diagrams Giskard posted here. Should be all good... I would not cross RED and BLACK unless you're inventing something...
    I'd followed the connection as Giskard posted here, but I found the low is muddy. The woofers move inward when I connect the battery + to + and - to - terminals of crossover. I want to know if this connection method is still correct.

    Anyway, I find it's much better when I connect the + output of xover to - input of woofer and - output of Xover to + input of woofer. Should I also need to inverse the polarities of MF and HF?

  8. #8
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    You have it correct and the woofer is supposed to move in on a positive signal. If you have a sound level meter, play tones in the crossover range and try chaning the horn wires between the terminals. Whichever way produces the louder signal is usually correct. Do same for horn to tweeter interface.

    That said, it becomes apparent that when you adjust the horn, it has a profound effect on the tweeter. When I used N1200s and N7000s (and later N8000s), the horn was too "hot" even on the lowest setting, which of course made the tweeter very low. My solution was to wire it as shown and run the N1200 at full, but to put a 16 ohm L-pad across the horn letting me run the crossover full out (to the benefit of the tweeter) while reducing the horn.

    I'm sure that many here will scoff at this, but the resulting sound was far and away superior superior ot the stock set-up.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by toddalin
    I'm sure that many here will scoff.
    I doubt it. A lot of those canned networks were pretty awful even back then so anything goes in the attempt to make them work how you want them to work. Neato cans though. If JBL has come anywhere in the past 60 years it's definitely in network design. For example, the latest network designs for the Array Series and the xxxxxxx xx are fantastic.

  10. #10
    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toddalin
    I'm sure that many here will scoff at this, but the resulting sound was far and away superior superior ot the stock set-up.
    Naw, L-Pads EVERYWHERE here; fixed resistors hanging on compression driver inputs, mostly.

    I use adjustables for preliminary testing/evaluation only. Their impedances are rarely optimum.

    The fundamental system voicing derives from the balance of levels between/among drivers. An RTA certainly facilitates getting it right, tho....

  11. #11
    smartpolo
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    Quote Originally Posted by smartpolo
    I'd followed the connection as Giskard posted here, but I found the low is muddy. The woofers move inward when I connect the battery + to + and - to - terminals of crossover. I want to know if this connection method is still correct.

    Anyway, I find it's much better when I connect the + output of xover to - input of woofer and - output of Xover to + input of woofer. Should I also need to inverse the polarities of MF and HF?
    I have used the RTA to measure the phases; and I found all drivers are negative when all drivers are red to red and black to black. The woofers become positive when I cross the wiring. Now, I'm confused. Can someone tell me which connection is right?

  12. #12
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    The connection that's right is the connection that sounds right. It's that simple.

  13. #13
    smartpolo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Giskard
    The connection that's right is the connection that sounds right. It's that simple.
    But it seems to be abnormal compare with modern speaker when the woofer is reversed.

  14. #14
    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    Try this: Reverse the midrange phase only from the standard wiring scheme above.

    How does that sound?

    I'll quote you the reference on that, if you'd like....

  15. #15
    smartpolo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zilch
    Try this: Reverse the midrange phase only from the standard wiring scheme above.

    How does that sound?

    I'll quote you the reference on that, if you'd like....
    Do you mean the woofer still keeps red to red and black to black? But, is it normal when the woofers move negative?

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