This should be everything you need to get a volume. Looks to be just above 3 cu. ft.
This should be everything you need to get a volume. Looks to be just above 3 cu. ft.
Finished the bass bins this weekend.
I tossed around few different layouts including the S3S and the nice sketch by titanium dome. Eventually I went with the stock box size recommended by JBL for the 128h in the enclosure guide.
http://www.jblpro.com/pub/manuals/enclgde.pdf. 2.5 ft3 tuned to 30hz.
The main factors in this choice were that I wanted them a little taller than a cube type subwoofer, and I had a 4x4 square of veneer left from the top boxes. This shape allowed veneer on 3 sides.
Anyway, they sound great. The setup in the picture has them bi-amped at 100hz which works fine.
John, that looks really nice. I'm glad you were able to do this. You may be the first person since the original design team to hear these drivers all facing frontward.
You were able to accomplish one of the main design goals, which was a narrow baffle for the top three drivers. Well done.
- This new L7 ( plus ) setup is absolutely stunning .
- John, I've always loved that yellow & blue patterned rug ( & the fireplace ) .
- They always brings out the best in your new projects.
<> Cheers
Outstanding!
They are too near your Jotul stove, all your great work will come undone in the winter.
I have some L7's I have had for about a month now.
The low frequency crossover at 180 hz is an interesting choice by JBL.
IMHO, they "get away" with it in the L7 design by side firing the woofers.
This makes the inevetible cabinet vibration fire to the sides, instead of right at you.
A quick and dirty way of doing it as opposed to my B&W 801's.
The 801's have a relatively high 300 hz crossover.
So, to control coloration in this all important region, B&W went to heroic measures and designed the Matrix Cabinet.
The relatively high crossover to the 8 inch driver in the L7 is what gives it it's ability to play LOUD w/o distortion.
This it does real well.
Your ultimate choice of woofer to 8 inch lower midrange crossover points will ultimately be determined by your room, and how well you have controlled coloration in your lower woofer boxes.
IF it were me, I would consider an adjustable electronic crossover, and a big solid state amp on the woofers, and your tube amp up top on the rest.
This will pay enoromous dividends in sound quality.
BYW, in a steep slope passive crossover w/o time delay compensation, driver voice coil alignment is critical.
I see you paid attention to it.
I used to live in Seattle, up in the North End.
My friends own Definitive Audio in the U District on Roosevelt Way.
Haven't been back to Seattle since 1989.
I miss it, but my friends up there say it has turned into LA, with trees.
The L7 has proved to be an "interesting speaker" for me.
I must have had a bad pair initially, because they sounded truly awful.
This pair I have hadn't been played for almost 4 years!
Initially, they sounded wonderful.
I was quite excited
But, they changed, perhaps the caps had to re form from 4 years of non use ?
My opinion of them is still very good, but not quite as good as what I heard initially.
One thing is for sure, they like a big, high current amp, at least in my big room.
My 50 lb JVC RX DP 9 receiver gets the life sucked right out of it.
My Luxman M 117 amp sounds good, but is a little too mellow for these speakers, and my Adcom 585 isn't right either.
My Moscode 600 will be back shortly, and I plan to try some other amps on them too that I own.
Got to get them bi wired too.
My pair are MINT, got lucky!
You could literally eat off of mine.
Nice Job you did
that's really one beautiful job..congrads
2ch: WiiM Pro; Topping E30 II DAC; Oppo, Acurus RL-11, Acurus A200, JBL Dynamics Project - Offline: L212-TwinStack, VonSchweikert VR-4
7: TIVO, Oppo BDP103D, B&K, 2pr UREI 809A, TF600, JBL B460
This is probably obvious to most, but, how did you get that transition line/joint from the corner pieces to the sides and baffle. It really set them off.
Jorg
Thanks,
The front edges of the boxes are solid wood, cherry in this instance, which is needed to round over the baffle edges. I figured I would have a hard time matching color and grain pattern between the solid wood and the veneer, so decided to add a thin walnut band between the two. The darker the better in case the glue joints don't mate perfectly. Basically the banding is 1/8in walnut strips glued to the edging before it is applied.
Beautiful!
Is the banding recessed a bit?
Jorg
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