5235/5234 cards compatibility confirmation

[takenodisk]

Hi everyone,i need to know if jbl xover 5234 cards can fit in a 5235 and vice-versa? I've come to this as i was going to swap cards from the 5234(51340e card)to the 5235(56182 card) and noticed that the resistors and condos are'nt displayed identically,i've a doubt about this,please if somebody could help,Zilch,Giskard :dont-know or any other members perhaps?

[Zilch]

In my experience, they are compatible.

Recognize that there are several versions of the cards with different layouts. The 12 dB ones are different from the 18 dBs, and the ones with horn compensation are different yet again. There are also 24 dB/octave active cards, which I have never seen or seen documented. The 12 dB ones are easily recognized as they have the resistors and capacitors lined up like soldiers in a row....

[takenodisk]

Thanks Zilch for your quick reply,here's a pic in order to have an precise answer,thanks for looking,MEvin

[Zilch]

Left is 18 dB, right is 12.

There's drawings in these forums somewhere, several, actually, to confirm.

Link to them here, if you go to hunt them down, for reference, please.

[takenodisk]

Thanks again Zilch for your help and knowledge,i'll try to find that link and attach it to this thread

[subwoof]

Here is a picture of the rare 24db card ( right ) for the 5235 crossover compared to the 12db model ( left ).

NOTE the number of pins - 3 were added to allow +/- DC voltage to run the IC's.

This card will NOT work in the older 31,32,33,34 models but that is the ONLY interchangability limitation.

sub

[Robh3606]

Schematics for each

Rob

[Guido]

2 different 18dB layouts.

[Zilch]

18 dB with horn compensation:

[takenodisk]

Thanks everybody for theese useful infos,but still one thing in order to be sure,can 18db cards be converted to 12db in changing the components?thanks again for answering guys,regards M Evin

[Robh3606]

Sure why not??? Just use the same component layout and jumper if required. Take a look at the schematics above.

To convert from 18db to 12db using an 18db card jumper both R1 and C4 and don't install C1 and R4. When you eliminate those 4 components you are left with the 12db card layout. Just shift the parts so 18db R2 becomes 12db R1 and so on down the line.

C1 and C2 on the 12db are C2 on the 18db

R4 and R5 on the 12db are R6 on the 18db

The parallel caps and series resistors make odd values more easy to accommodate but can easily be a single part if the values needed fall into standard values. To change them back just reinstall the original parts. This way if you need 18's down the road you still have them. Before you start verify your boards match the schematics and use the circuit traces on the backside to verify that not installing parts are indeed open and the jumpers complete the circuit to the pins.

Here's a picture of 18dbs with both sides shown

Rob

[speakerdave]

Thanks everybody for theese useful infos,but still one thing in order to be sure,can 18db cards be converted to 12db in changing the components?thanks again for answering guys,regards M Evin

I'm not so sure you actually can, but even if it's true I wouldn't. The 18 dB cards are harder to get; better to trade them for some 12 dB cards. I wouldn't be surprised if you got some offers from your post. You can PM me for such a trade if you want.

David

[takenodisk]

Hi Rob,hi David,first thanks for replying,as you all know i'm a complete dumb about electronics,i'm learning a bit more each time i come to that site,that's why i'm always grateful towards you people.It seems both of you have a different point of view about theese cards,i guess i'll wait for a 3rd opinion before making any changes,David i'll let you know first if i ever wanted to trade or swap theese cards,thanxs ME vin

[Zilch]

Third (and fourth) opinion(s): There are blank cards. Some members may have them.

They're also easy to build from scratch....

[takenodisk]

HI Zilch,i guess you get the final words,i'll follow what you said,thanks everybody for your precious helps,regards MEvin