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Thread: THE best system-JBL 10.2

  1. #1
    hosee
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    Talking THE best system-JBL 10.2

    Just asking what people think of my system. I have a Sharp projector that projects a 110 inch screen on my wall. I have 2 JBL 4312's for my front, a couple of JBL 500's to enhance the front. A custom built center with a original 2202 woofer, 2440 driver, H93 Horn and the 077 slot tweeter which I am tri amping using a 3107 crossover. I have 4 JBL L-166's, 2 are at my side and the other 2 are the rear and I have a JBL CL-505 for my rear center. My subs are 1 JBL psw-1200 and a JBL pswd-115. I have a panasonic dvd player a Pioneer Reciever and a Playstation 2. By the way- I am only 17 years old.
    Now hear is my dads system. He has a 61" Sony HDTV. 2 JBL 4350's for the front, the same center channel as mine, 2 JBL L-300's, a psw1200 for a sub. he has a Sony reciever, Pioneer Elite dvd player, HDTV Dolby Digital Satelite Reciever, 2 external crossovers. And 5 amplifiers which run the rear, front and center.
    Just to let you know.

  2. #2
    Niklas Nord
    Guest

    great

    Great, i also have the 4312 (mk 2) and i have 4, 2202 also.
    I will be starting making my main speakers soon..

    i will use a ribbon and perhaps 2234

  3. #3
    Senior Seņor boputnam's Avatar
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    hosee - watch the polarity...

    "Sounds" like a whopper of a system. I am dreaming...

    But, it looks like you have a phasing problem in your fronts - between the 4312's (positive) and the custom cabinet with the 2202H woofer (negative).

    If the 4312's are factory, and the 2202H is hooked red-to-red, JBL designed that 2202H trasducer negative, meaning cone excursion is "in" on positive signal - so it is 180-degrees out of phase with the 4312's. If true, you're missing a great deal of bass response, and imaging. But, with your obvious experience, maybe you knew this already.

    I don't know the L166's (by vintage they may be positive) or the L500's - somebody else out here might. Also, make sure your mid range compression driver IS out-of-phase with the woofer and tweeter - it will improve imagining.

    I am suspicious on the 4350's - they are likely negative. Most of the upper end 43-series were negative it seems. I had paired some 4312's with some 4313's, and had to cross-wire the components in 4313 cabinet - the improvement was astonishing.

    I (re)started a Thread on this under "Technical Help" - since the prior discussion went down with the old Forum.

    Id' love to know what you find, and what you hear...
    Last edited by boputnam; 04-20-2003 at 02:39 PM.
    bo

    "Indeed, not!!"

  4. #4
    hosee
    Guest

    Question In phase

    I put all the woofer in phase to where they are going out, should they be going in? Also how do I find out if a tweeter or a driver is in phase? I don't know how to do that because I can't see in or out. What is the best way to balance a system? I do it by ear, is that okay.

    Thanks

  5. #5
    Senior Seņor boputnam's Avatar
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    hosee...

    Phasing depends upon the entire system, but it is most important each transducer set (woofers, mids, tweets) be consistent. Cones moving out on positive signal, that is "industry standard".

    Did putting the woofers in-phase improve the sound? There should have been by removing the cancelling.

    There's been some knowledgeable postings on testing on the "JBL Polarity Convention" Thread under "Technical Help" here (Giskard and Mr. Widget). Maybe if you post your tweeter and driver numbers, someone will know.

    And, phasing of each driver "set" (all tweets, mids/compression drivers, etc) should be consistent within each set: all tweets positive or negative, etc., to avoid frequency cancellation within that set. Your crossover(s) design will guide whether mids and tweets are positive or negative (because some cancellation between driver sets can be good), but also will your ears.
    bo

    "Indeed, not!!"

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