I think I need a resistor in line with my horn to lower its volume. I am trying a two way system with a 2446J as the top end and a 3110A crossover. I turn the volume nob on the crossover to its lowest setting and the horn is still to loud.
I would like to turn down the horn volume approximately 6db. Should I put a resistor in line? What value, What type, Where to insert it and Where to buy it would help me.
Thanks.
A resistor in line won't get it. You need an L-Pad to maintain the correct impedance.
For -6 dB (which sounds about right, BTW,) you'll need 16 Ohms across the driver, and then 8 Ohms in line (series) with that.
Go to #122 in the right column here for more info:
http://www.bcae1.com/
Use 10-Watt wirewound resistors, non-inductive type preferred, available from Parts Express.
Alternatively, you can wire in a 16-Ohm adjustable L-Pad at the driver....
Zilch,
Thanks, I saved that car stereo site as a favorite and have just ordered the L-pads from parts express. I will let you know how they work.
If it's permanent, doing it with resistors is probably better. I think that is what Zilch is saying (forgive me if I'm wrong) . You don't need to add wipers to your circuit if you're not going to be changing. You can't just add a resister in series though it changes the load to your crossover and changes the crossover characteristics totally. The "L pad whether it's a control or calculated value of two resisters shows the crossover the same load as before (within reason) but lowers the signal to your driver. I'm not sure why he said "get wire wound non-inductive if possible" I'm sure he had a reason but I would have said be sure to get non inductive and high enough power value. Some places wire wound non inductive resisters are easy to find some places they aren't. The values you're dealing with most wire wounds will have small inductance but there are exceptions that might effect your hf. the non inductive they wind the wire both ways and that's that. I don't know why one material would be better than another unless he is talking about a control. But as soon as I figured out where I was going to run I would get the wipers out of my circuit. Ah I re read he is saying either/or.
Here is my 18" two way. I attached the L-Pads. Sound is nice. I am using a 2446J, 2380A, 3110a, 4642A which has 2 x 2241H. I am using the top woofer to 800hz. I have the bottom woofer hooked to the sub out of a Yamaha home theater receiver. I think it is supposed to crossover to the sub at 80hz. The top woofers and horns are powered by the Yamaha receiver and the bottom woofers are powered by a crown K2.
This really is not the ideal way to power this, mainly because I am not sure exactly what is going on with the receiver and how it handles the sub crossover etc. It may be working perfectly, but I will need to read the receiver manual again.
I am open to comments or suggestions to improve the sound.
4345,
The Yamaha receiver you are using what is the model number?
Looks to me both woofers are using the same vent?
J/S-S1A
Do both 18's in each cabinet share the same space, or are they in their own separate subenclosures? If they share the same space, I'd think there'd be some unpleasant interactions between them if they're running different frequency bands.Originally Posted by 4345
John
The 4642a is not divided into two sub chambers. Again, I am not sure what signals the receiver is sending to the main left and right and the sub. I need to read the manual again. The sound is pretty nice. I have 4345's to compare these to.
It is the RX-V2500
I was ust going to interject that same point. The best way to correct is put them seperate enclosures. But the easiest way is to go into the Yamaha's set up menu and set the front speakers to large and receive LFE frequencies. It will say in the menu front speakers move it to both. This means they will run full bandwidth and receive LFE effects/sub. Put the Crown on the whole speaker array. Much better than receiver power.
J/S-S1A
4345,
Look at my Avitar. I have designed it in two seperat enclosures. I have a center channel sub on the right, and the center channel running full bandwidth on the left. The LFE portion of the signal is much greater than the High Pass set at 80hz and above. So you will experience to much cone excursion on the bottom woofers there for interferring with correct cone excursion on the above woofers. This is bad, and it will not sound correct.
J/S-S1A
I could see where it might be desireable to -not- use both drivers full range
(localization), and also quite possible to make it sound quite good, regardless
of the two drivers sharing a volume and running different or overlapping
bandpasses (think early 4435 or Everest II).
It might also be more predictable, performance-wise, to separate the volumes.
I'm sure a lot of work/measurements/refining went into the systems I mentioned.
That said, you have what you have, sounds like you're having fun, I wouldn't
worry about it too much if you're enjoying it (and not smoking equipment)
Getting a better handle on what signals are going where, and even some rough
measurements (test CD/warble tones/ear or SPL meter) would probably go a long way
in helping you refine your setup.
-grumpy
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