LE14H-3

[sourceoneaudio]

My re-foamer has stated to me at the moment no. If somethig comes up I will post it.

J/S-S1A

[4313B]

To match the output so the speaker is uniform from the woofer to the tweeter is to drop the buss bars down one notch on each driver. The output loss of 1db using the LE14H-3 is due to the moving mass going up .3 of an ounce if I'm correct due to the rubber surround. Hope this helps.
And yes you can put those drivers into L250's, 240TI's & 250TI's, as a replacement and have many years of no foam rotting happiness.

J/S-S1A

Where did you come up with all this? I get 91.4 dB SPL 1W, 1m for the LE14H-3 and 91.3 dB SPL 1W, 1m for the LE14H-1 via a quick run through BB6P.

I would have to run a voltage drive on the 240Ti network with the LE14H-3 to conclude that the spike at 1.7 kHz was sufficiently attenuated.

*****

On second thought, it's probably good enough for this forum so carry on.

[edgewound]

Rubber surrounds rot, too.....just in a different manner....they crack....like the Cali Desert floor.

[sourceoneaudio]

I got the parameters on both drivers from this site, and I sent them onto a friend who ran them in a program to do the comparison. Who is a mechanical engineer. The technical data is also listed on the materials use to construct the LE14H-3 driver, and the buss bar movement to match up the the output to the woofer is an easy one. The cross over is marked on rear so you can tailor the sound the way you want (1db increments) don't know if JBL planned it that way but it will work. That would have taken lots of for site on there part.
And I think we will all be dead before the rubber rots, unless you sit it outside in the sun an Arizona...........


J/S-S1A

[sourceoneaudio]

What are the x-over points on the 240TI, because the spike @1.7k does not matter on the 250TI. If the network is anything close to the 250TI the mid comes in below 1.7k ????


J/S-S1A

[4313B]

What are the x-over points on the 240TI, because the spike @1.7k does not matter on the 250TI. If the network is anything close to the 250TI the mid comes in below 1.7k ????

It might not matter on the 240Ti either. My point is, I'm going to check to make sure before I post that it's a bolt-in. That's all I'm getting at. Without good data I'm not going to commit. I probably should have bolted a pair of LE14H-3's into a pair of 240Ti's while I had both on hand but I didn't care enough to bother at the time. And I didn't think to run a voltage drive either. It simply wasn't on the adgenda. I'm sure several forum members are going to give it a try and report their impressions.

[sourceoneaudio]

I see the spike you are talking about. If the x-over points are below that issue area then that is a good thing. It is neat to see that they are identical up to 400hz the reduction in output is evident between 400hz and 600hz. It also looks to me to be more than 1db. This gives people a + direction to go with L250, 250TI's and 250BQ's, for fixing them since that is the x-over point. (400hz & 350hz on the BQ)



J/S-S1A

[opimax]

some of us (me ) have a bad 14-1 and go into withdrawal if I can't turn it up.

Since GT designed and built these speakers my thoughts are would he have used a 14-3 if it were available at that time?

I am a little hesitant to modify my XO not a skill I have. I just got them and haven't heard my speakers w/both working woofers yet. I don't think I want to send them back to Germany just due to time. If it is a bolt in and equavilant then great but if it is anything backwards I would rather keep my 14-1

If i go to 14-3 i will need 2 while the 14-1 at this time only requires 1 unit 1 recone. part of this equation is what is really available (to me) now...I trust my supplier to give me the right info

Mark

[Zilch]

And I think we will all be dead before the rubber rots, unless you sit it outside in the sun an Arizona...........

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...ad.php?t=12357

[4313B]

I see the spike you are talking about. If the x-over points are below that issue area then that is a good thing.

It depends on how much lower, as well as the crossover slope.

It is neat to see that they are identical up to 400hz the reduction in output is evident between 400hz and 600hz. It also looks to me to be more than 1db.

That could just be specific driver anomalies. I'd have to actually see a bunch of curves. I believe Jerry said that he pulled that particular LE14H-1 out of Greg's 250Ti in his office to run the comparison for me. I think it was running the current Mogami cone as opposed to the original Hawley cone. It was concluded that the LE14H-3 was probably a bolt-in for the L250 and 250Ti, but then someone tried it and reported that the sound character was "different". Who knows what that was about. We'll see as people try it out.

[sourceoneaudio]

Which speakers are you running? 250's or 240's??? If 240's all we need to do is find out the x-o points this will help point you in the right direction. If the mid comes in lower than the spike in the -3 driver than it's a clean swap out. I might be able to find out for you. I can see if my friend has a service manual on them. I also might have a LE14H-1 for sale needing a re-cone but we have no kits ava. so that will not help>>>>>>>>>>

J/S-S1A

[Andyoz]

Who's game to try it then (?)...not me as my pair of LE14H-1's have got plenty of life left in them

[4313B]

G.T. says do it. It's a bolt-in. He's already tried it for a buddy with 250Ti's and it worked fine.

Same with 240Ti but if you already have the switches at -2 dB it might be a problem. If it is a problem I'd probably see if I could remove some insertion loss in the LF inductor. Go with a low DCR Erse maybe.

Since GT designed and built these speakers my thoughts are would he have used a 14-3 if it were available at that time?

It would seem so.

[sourceoneaudio]

Are not the x-overs 18db per octave in both speakers? I'm looking at the network as we speak on a 250TI. That is a sharp enough slope and if x-over point is below spike I would think it would not be noticeable at all.???

J/S-S1A

[sourceoneaudio]

Also if my plan does not work out I will be buying a pair of them for the 250TI's I rebuilt and I will do the test, and let you all know the outcome.......

J/S-S1A