You're Welcome. Remember, they have to look good AND smell good, LOL...
You're Welcome. Remember, they have to look good AND smell good, LOL...
Everytime I see shots of Giskard's creations, it brings out the audio lust factor. Sweet.
Hey many thanks for full generous reply ....
Well, I know a couple of point:
---Solder is not a mechanical link...
--- Good solder is thin electrical link...
--- Bend the lead caps gently with hand.
(Solen is not recommend to keep long nose because it is dent a lead abd create a leak point...)
Normally the lead is gently curve not agressif angle close to caps.
In regards of cut or leakage or micro broken epoxy...
--- All caps is fixed mechanical for vibration...
(in general more hardener the glue more transfert vibration is better)
so crazy glue or epoxy is first choice...
--- Aligator clip for heatsink during solder...
--- Good solder: I choice WBT 4% silver and Cardas (high level version with no lead)
--- Yes the choice of connection is depend of factor considaration: For test purpose Giskar set-up is best, but (in regards of solen and in regard of Giskar too the final set-up is soldering to point of point. ) Illimination 30-50 % point soldering and cable variation + terminator leak...)
The good job is not necessary estethical look ...
--- ideally the link connection is not exceed 90 degrees for hesterical flow current (I dont remaind the white paper) but the same size and flat angle as possible is best ( vulgarisation: electrical is same principe of plumber pipe)
--- finnaly the crimp is delicate question... Yes is good if elements and crimp is not affect by oxidation... +, the crimps is critical quality on regards of density, contact, stress and all. (my friend is study in telecom in university and tool crimp for telecom is cost over 500$ and crimps is more than 1 $ but this tool garantee reliability and less loose contact than other system...)
So crimp is good or superior but in circonstances controled... It is possible to represent a better approach but not necessary ideal approach depend on application...
I have omit points ????
Jean.
I try to go in this way but no idea what is good ring terminal:Originally Posted by rek50
I have awg 10 and 14awg lead caps + small and fragile lead of bypass...
If I put to big ring the extra metal is affectted negatively the electrical link...
Do you have pict of your work??
thanks
Jean.
Well in this case of of 160Uf the lead lengh is too small for autorisation safe bending and space... I know is not best but all the time the restriction push me to choose in 2 not ideal situation, more contact of chance to break contact...
But I appreciate feeback
Jean.
Hi Jean (rek50 et al )
- Here's the link to the thread on the N250ti networks that Giskard made for jblnut .
There are some quite instructive pictures in the thread ( for the DIYer ) .
- This effort represents another work of great industrial design & layout , etc. and is an achievable & worthy goal for any DIYer .
- Jean, you may not like the 180° turns that the baised caps make with this layout / though this topology is of course reworkable so that those caps can go in a straight line.
-Note 1: the 180° turns ( on the biased caps ) haven't dampened jblnuts enthusiasm for this upgrade / though I'm not dismissing this thought of ( best practice including the ) avoidance of sharp turns in HF & UHF circuits .
-Note 2: this biased N250Ti takes a monolythic cap approach. Again, the absence of bypass caps didn't turn out to be a dentriment to the success of this network.
- Read jblnuts' testamonial on page 2 of this link ( about his newly built [at the time ], DC-biased, Solen based networks ) .
-Note 3: I also find, upon returning to listen to a biased network, that the difference in clarity (especially in the midrange area ) is, well; " Staggering " .
Good Listening <. EarlK
Hi Earl,
Sorry for my another bad english but I'm not understand your answer...
Well, JBLNuts and Giskar is produce great work and very clean industrial subtitution layout but, all is question of degree of crazy... For my part I try to less part in insert as possible, the look is not good but no extra cable, screw or crimp added as possible of design... Again talk with Cristian and Denis Solen and it is preferable to torque lead and point to point solder than add cable of extra device in circuit... All addition is perceiving in final result.... any add soldering or contact is less better...
It is question of purity approach... Well, the best is link without added extra. but is it difficult or imposible to work in perfect state...
But thanks
Jean
Hi again,
I try to corse layout before clean wire and solder (see pict...)
But I realise it is imposible to create good conctat in too much cable in same place...
I try to buy a star connector (stainless-steel) see pict but I'm not found
Anybody Have idea where to buy this ???
Thanks all
Jean
Hi Jean
- No, I can't seem to find anyone who sells a 4-tab ( or more ) ring terminal / like you've shown attached to those capacitors .I try to buy a star connector (stainless-steel) see pict but I'm not found
- Anybody Have idea where to buy this ???
- Personally, I'd do as Giskard has done / and crimp ( & solder ) individual ring connectors onto precisely ( cut to length ) wires . With a long enough bolt , one can get quite a few of these onto a single stand-off post. I'd make the individual lengths equal / including the combined length of inductor ( and capacitor ) leads to maintain the best time balance ( for coherence ) . I believe that is more important ( than ultimate length - give or take a couple of inches ) when adopting a star-ground configuration .
I was just pointing out that in Giskards DC Biasing layout / the signal takes a "U-Turn" ( because the pair of caps are side by side ) at the resistor junction .Sorry for my another bad english but I'm not understand your answer...
- I believe you mentioned , you didn't want to employ any sharp turns for those pesky electrons to make .
Hi Guys, Nice links/concepts. For ring terminals I don't get fussy. I remove the small insulating piece (small heat and off they go). I got the terminals at Parts Express. They aren't exotic by any means. For a multiple ring terminal, how about making your own? A 2mm thick piece of pure Silver with drilled holes to suit your mounting post/number of wires should work. I consider wires/cap leads to be similar to water pipes, keeping bends and lengths in mind to insure good flow. Hard adhesive?? Less vibration?? "Rubber meets the road" Nice ride/flexible tires...
Jean,
I think Earl's suggestion to try Giskards implementation is wise. Particularly in view of the sheer number of parts for a biased network.
Consider for a moment the long term stability of literally conecting the parts as you earlier post implies. Soldered or not, components not supported properly will result in fatigue of connections. Correct phyical electrical engineering is the key
As to the theoretical aspects of so called solderless joints etc, bare in mind in the output stage of your amplifier there are dozens of solder joints...I think Solen are wanking....seriously these capacitors are not in that league.
Just use good soldering skills, cleanliness is an absolute must, poor joints often result from impurities. Use a good 50 watt iron ( 46 watt Goot Px 232)...a low powered 25 watt iron well never get those connections hot enough!
Below is a snippet of "The project in progress to be rolled out soon". The resisters, wiring and terminals are mounted in the rear side of the board. The passive LC elements on the top side. This job is still in the works and will look a lot neater when completed. This approach is a bit like a doubled sided pcb...it enables the best prefered layout with excellent physical design. Giskards 3 layer approach offered even greater compacting where more complexity is involved.
Ian
"bare in mind in the output stage of your amplifier there are dozens of solder joints...I think Solen are wanking...." I've said before, there's solder everywhere inside most vintage (Desirable to me) audio equipment. I can't help but think there's some marketing going on there(Solen). No shot fired, just sifting through it all.
You have that backwards. Few good jobs are not also neatly done.
Can't solder to stainless, I don't believe.
Wires ain't pipes. Electrons ain't a fluid. Bends don't "throttle" 'em.
Well we're not dealing with microwaves here.
Ian
Sorry for delay... I go in deep Wood this week end and I complete eat by moskito, black fly, and all... So I feel in middle in two water ....
I recognise the solidity of build circuit is critical for long term... Actually my pict is just for look is set-up is coarse.... Final product is fixing in epoxy and crazy glue... No doubt is poll with little star connector is stabilize more connector, caps and lead... Maybe other set-up is build wire line and soldering each cap (same look as plan, but theorically little less better than unique star connector...
ACH !!! no ideal solution, Giskar is built, as same couple ex: layout of solen) on 1/4 board. but, I'm not build in 1/4 or multi-layout 1/4 circuit...
Well, all of points is important, so I realize I'm not push my integration design for enormous LF section. Only this section is problem... ALL PARTS IS TOO BIG... wire , coil, caps lead, quantity of connection...
Thanks for all input guys...
mmmmmmmmm the quest is continue...
There are currently 3 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 3 guests)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote