Page 15 of 35 FirstFirst ... 5131415161725 ... LastLast
Results 211 to 225 of 515

Thread: 4343 crossover modifications

  1. #211
    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Berkeley, CA
    Posts
    9,963
    Quote Originally Posted by B&KMan
    all caps is 2,2uF value....
    In the interest of precision, perhaps you should edit the "Real" values reported above.

    [I have yet to ascertain the meaning of "cie" and "rodage.']

    Quote Originally Posted by B&KMan
    Solen explain for fast caps, the Dc charge is affecte the response but in worse side... the dc charge on film and foil is downgrade in regards standart circuit... TITAN shock because Giskar is expose a point of view of G.Timber where is consider the best is DC charge in Film and foil....
    Geez, you didn't give them any MONEY, I trust....

    It is certainly reassuring to know that film and foil is superior to electrolyitc with respect to the measured parameters. I guess that's why we don't use electrolyitics anymore, mostly....

    Didya make yer UHF wires yet?
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  2. #212
    Senior Member B&KMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    492
    Quote Originally Posted by Earl K
    Hi Jean

    - From the "keeping it all constructive" point of view ; I'd advise that if you want to maintain an open attitude to these questions, then design & build an "open-architecture external crossover" that will readily accept the previously mentioned capacitor topologies (ie; DC Biasing, Cascading or ByPassing ).

    This is exactly My attitude and my order of over 50 caps for 2 network is ready on solen : i send picts tomorow .)

    Thanks for your support...

    Jean.

  3. #213
    Senior Member B&KMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    492
    Quote Originally Posted by Zilch
    Didya make yer UHF wires yet?
    Yes great timing surprise,

    Because the new mil spec on airplane, Bombardier Canada drop a couple of rool of High end copper -silver with telfon jacket on surplus local store. mmmmmmmmmmm this is my best shot in this year !!!!

    I probably perform your test but no doubt, this cable is real superior construction and more in the way of application, but final test is listen after 2 month rodage (yuk yuk yuk )
    Jean.

  4. #214
    Senior Member B&KMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    492
    Quote Originally Posted by B&KMan
    i send picts tomorow .)
    I promise... take a look it is free

    Jean...
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  5. #215
    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Berkeley, CA
    Posts
    9,963

    Sing along with the Zilchster now:

    "It's astounding,
    time is fleeting,
    madness takes its toll.

    But listen closely,
    [not for very much longer....],
    I've got to
    keep control.

    I remember
    doing the Timewarp;
    let's do the Timewarp
    again...."

  6. #216
    Senior Member B&KMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    492
    Quote Originally Posted by Zilch
    "It's astounding,
    time is fleeting,
    madness takes its toll.

    But listen closely,
    [not for very much longer....],
    I've got to
    keep control.

    I remember
    doing the Timewarp;
    let's do the Timewarp
    again...."
    Hey it is poem !!!

    Is sound sweet and good in my ear....

    At each time, the great stuff create a elevation of human and
    great "vibration" on the soul...

    I hope this is this effect

    Jean.

  7. #217
    Senior Member B&KMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    492
    Hey, the heretic quest continue...

    Look this crazy cascade caps, 160 Uf PB + 18 uF Pb + 1,5uF film and foil + ,01 film and foil...

    Of course the Dc charge is comming soon...




    Jean.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  8. #218
    Senior Member B&KMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    492
    Hello again, great members...

    this message is for any guy who have experience to soldering big caps with multiple lead and big wire....


    What is best method for best solder without burn caps...

    Thanks at all...

    I send pict for you fix idea of chalenge....
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  9. #219
    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Berkeley, CA
    Posts
    9,963
    While I see the challenge you are facing, the leads on the capacitors are bent too close. To minimize stress on the connection inside the capacitor, the recommended technique is to grab the lead with long-nose pliars and gently bend outside of them, leaving at least 1/8" unbent at the capacitor, more if possible. If you've ever opened one up, you know the connection inside is tenuous, and easily appreciate that minimizing any stress placed upon it is best practice.

    Of course, it's never that simple, is it? My Solens come with the leads already bent as shown, too close to the body. So, I ask myself whether its better to UNBEND them there and then bend them properly, or just leave them alone. The sealing seems to be done with epoxy, and it may be able to take the stress adequately. However, it also breaks the epoxy seal to the lead, potentially allowing contamination to enter the internal connection and accelerate oxidation there. Ask the "Expert" at Solen about this. It may be desireable to reseal the leads with more epoxy (ask them to specify a type) after re-bending. I think maybe I'd leave them alone if they came bent that close already, as you have done.

    Further complicating this is the practical desire to have the printing on the devices "up" when installed, so that the values can be read and verified in the future. Thus it's not possible for the manufacturer to determine which way to bend the leads in advance. To achieve this objective, it'll be necessary to unbend some of the leads anyway. It'd be better if Solen did not bend the leads from several installation perspectives. Of course, it's more expensive to pack and ship them that way. Tell them Zilch has deemed them idiots and cheapskates with respect to lead dressing.

    Remember that solder is not a mechanical connection. Best practice is to make a solid mechanical (and preferably, gas-tight) connection between components before soldering. I see you are doing this. That's the reason in point-to-point wiring that leads are wrapped several times tightly through holes in terminal strips. No doubt there are MIL specs on this. I think where you're making connections to the large-diameter wires there, and connecting lead bundles, I'd wrap and twist with some small diameter solid wire to make the mechanical connection first. I save the gold-plated leads from Theta capacitors for just such applications.

    Recognize that you are using an assembly technique that is not amenable to later modification. If you want to change a capacitor type or value in the future, or replace a defective one, it will not be easiy accomplished with this construction method. That's one reason why terminal strips are often used for the purpose. See photos of DIY crossovers made by Robh3606 on this forum, for example. You may want to rethink your approach.

    Some others here have used eurostyle screw terminal blocks successfully. Properly selected and installed, they make solid, gas-tight solderless connections. A combination of techniques can work, too, like twist and solder the leads and then insert into terminal blocks for major connections, such as to your large-diameter wires, for example. Pay attention to terminal block ratings and construction when choosing, of course. I like the ones with hex socket screws best so I can be confident about tightening them securely.

    To solder, attach an alligator clip to the lead to act as heat sink between your soldering and the capacitor, or hold with needle-nose pliars. Bending the leads some distance from the body of the capacitor allows room for this. The further away from the capacitor you can accomplish the heat-sinking the better, so long as you're not also directly heating the heat sink with the soldering:
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  10. #220
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    N.E. Ohio
    Posts
    182
    Well, first off, I don't know if my method would be blessed by the "Grand Pubars" of sonic balance, but here it is. For the leads that come bent too close for my comfort, I leave the close bend as is and while holding them firm (No stress) I form an additional stand-off bend, to suit numbers up placement on the board. I hold the caps to the board with nylon ties and some acid-free silicone sealer.I use a ring terminal, crimpted (Sound Mechanical) and soldered (Gas Free) on the end of a hook-up wire. Through the ring I wrap the cap leads (Sound Mechanical) and seal them with solder (Gas Free). The shank of the ring terminal is a press fit in the board, with some epoxy, with the wire running under, for point to point connection. Granted this method isn't too kind for future experiments, but it works for me.

  11. #221
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    GTA, Ont.
    Posts
    5,109
    Hi Jean

    - Here are pics of 2 of Giskards creations. They are the Low-Pass & Hi-Pass sections for the 3-way Project May speaker. ( These are the non-biased prototypes ) .

    - I like these layouts a lot and would recommend that you draw some inspiration from them. In particular, note how bypass caps are not tightly wound onto the leads of the base cap. I prefer the usage of both types of terminal blocks ( as shown ) .

    Attached Images Attached Images   

  12. #222
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    NW Montana
    Posts
    35

    Acid Free Silicon?

    Rek50, could you suggest brand/type of silicone? Thanks!

  13. #223
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    N.E. Ohio
    Posts
    182
    Good show Earl. It looks like ART. Ring terminals are good. Terminal blocks are good. Sound (Positive) connections all around. The work of a master. Viewing the lay-out answers many potential questions. And a thanks to Giskard for sharing (Hope he reads this, I miss his tech/wit)...

  14. #224
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    N.E. Ohio
    Posts
    182
    GE Silicone II has Methanol/Ammonia instead of acid. Most Automotive Silicone Sealer labeled "Oxygen Sensor Safe" has no acid. Smell it to be sure.

  15. #225
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    NW Montana
    Posts
    35

    Saved!

    Rek50, thanks - you just saved me from disaster; about to use some "ordinary" silicone on a pile of Solens!

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Ashly XR1001 Active Crossover
    By boputnam in forum Electronic Crossovers
    Replies: 156
    Last Post: 10-06-2009, 09:58 AM
  2. JBL 4343 external crossover needed? help!!!
    By catcaster1 in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 12-29-2004, 09:23 PM
  3. Questions about the Ashly XR1001 Active Crossover
    By porschedpm in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 12-19-2004, 02:37 PM
  4. Upgrading a 4343 to 4344 components
    By porschedpm in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 10-29-2004, 10:45 AM
  5. L300 convert to 4343?
    By tv506 in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-24-2003, 12:08 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •