I'm awfully confused as to what side I'm being quoted to, or for, or what. So, I'd just like to say that, double blind testing is probably always a good Idea. If someone really wants to know something, and a method can be devised And, homeopathic cables was a joke, unless someone out there would like to buy some.
We should set up a beer and pretzels test party!Originally Posted by Thom
Beer is good.
Beer and audio is better!
Amazed I'm still alive!
Tim
I know, I know, but I did receive an inquiry, and it IS on topic:
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...2204#post72204
It's measureably better above 1 kHz on WT2.
I use it on M/HF compression drivers when I'm not too lazy to make some up and I think it counts, like on the TOTL project, probably.
It's cheap.
Edit: Here's another fun thread on the subject I found while looking for that link:
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...ead.php?t=5599
Another option is using CAT5 or CAT6 data cable as speaker wire. Some folks swear by it....:dont-know
Amazed I'm still alive!
Heh.
Look closely at Ti Dome's pic of Zilch Miracle Cable, Tim.
[There's a link to an anti-tribo-electric biased version in the other thread I linked above, as well....]
I am with thom on this and do appreciate the double blind testing method in all things audio/listener related.
Two of the realities mentioned above always shine thru with DBT.
Some of us like some pretty shitty sounding speakers/wires/systems!
Some of us blow our own horns and can't hear what we are playing!
I find these wire threads rather ammusing and would not want to see them barred from discussions.
Some one pointed out the real facts that if you have the money and think the wires make a difference then the sky is the limit.
Others pointed out that great wire hooked to not so great equipment is an effort in futility.
In my own personal systems the wires are about the last thing I would concentrate any effort on short of useing what most here might consider up to standards for the job. Zip cord does not get it but I am not completely convinced that what I do use is all that much better or that zip cord does not do the job.
What I do find most interesting is that the author of this thread in one instant is pushing his model 19s with a JVC mini all in one system under a 4 ohm load and asking if he may have hurt his speakers and in the very next instant concentrating his efforts on the wires found within the same speakers.
Many of the same posters here got into heated discussions over what damages may have been caused and here we are now discussing what special wires to use inside these speakers.
Here is my take on the entire thread. If you are going to use a complete garbage system to test your new 19s then you could use the tinsel from your christmas tree to connect your speakers and get that job done.
How can one individual know absolutely nothing about amplification and ask a question yet in his next question be dueling with knowledgable members regarding Chip amps and high dollar items such as wires/cables or what ever they might be called?
Wasted time!!!!!
Gary
Wire, wire everywhere but nary and electron to sink!
Time for me to strip some CAT5 data cable and build some Zilch Miracle Audio Cables (tm). Maybe with some beer and pretzels I will arrive at some sort of definitive answer...If anything, it will be fun!
Amazed I'm still alive!
The rime of the ancient listener ????
Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles
Avast ye swabs - prepare to be cabled!
Amazed I'm still alive!
Gets the post of the day award. Great links too.I know, I know, but I did receive an inquiry, and it IS on topic:
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...2204#post72204
It's measureably better above 1 kHz on WT2.
I use it on M/HF compression drivers when I'm not too lazy to make some up and I think it counts, like on the TOTL project, probably.
It's cheap.
Edit: Here's a fun thread on the subject I found while looking for that link:
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...ead.php?t=5599
The relative merit of better drivers is obvious. That is why I said earlier that using better cables in the vintage stuff was a "shine on" when the freakin signal goes through a 3/16 steal bolt and the internal losses are like 1/2 an ohm and you have a bunch of old tired innards. It's a freakin joke they work at all. I think Porschedpm will attest to the improvement ripping out the whole messing and starting over makes. I recall we used Cardas binding posts and Welbourne Labs teflon coated wire. That was fun.
And that's exactly why I upgraded to a 13/64 grade 8 steel bolt...
Ain't that the truth!!
Add the corrosion on the cheap-ass switches to that, too.
I've "repaired" enough vintage crossovers to have learned a total rebuild is typically required. May as well start from scratch with all new components and a better design wherever possible....
DRAT! Now I'll have to start chargin' for it....Frankly, I think everyone should buy ZMC, wire all their crap with it, and give it a rest.
Is there something wrong with the signal passing through a steel binding post? If so what?
Anybody mentioned Burn In?
http://www.hagtech.com/frybaby.htm
All together something like hiss, isn't it?This scientifically designed waveform comprises a wideband gaussian noise source that is amplitude modulated by a low frequency swept triangle wave, thus providing complete audio (and then some) bandwidth burn without any fixed frequency components.
I prefer to listen to music ... have there been any changes in my cables?
____________
Peter
lmfaoThere is some truly hilarious stuff on this thread.
My personal favorite...
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