New crossover design for L-100A

[Swerd]

How are you wiring the woofer?
I see your schematic but what convention?

To be sure, test each individual driver with a 1.5 volt AA battery. A driver's terminal is positive if attaching the positive end of the battery makes the cone move forward.

Was just hoping for an up to date parts list of all your specific values, brands and types choices-without trying to discern them from the several drawings and photos

Tony,

I will send you, by private message (PM), my email address. If you email me, I will send you a pdf of the full write up for the new crossover design, along with a photo and diagram of the board I built, and a parts list with prices as of April 2016.

Richard

[mgadei]

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums...-2#post-277052


the lists originally posted by Swerd are there too. Post 32, see attached files. Hope the link will work...

[dcoates]

To be sure, test each individual driver with a 1.5 volt AA battery. A driver's terminal is positive if attaching the positive end of the battery makes the cone move forward.
Tony,

I will send you, by private message (PM), my email address. If you email me, I will send you a pdf of the full write up for the new crossover design, along with a photo and diagram of the board I built, and a parts list with prices as of April 2016.

Richard

Hello All, New member - or at least poster - here. I have slowly been acquiring L-100's to replace my aging Paradigm speakers in my shop system. I now have 5 pair consisting of:

#1 sn 14293 & 14404 (original vertically aligned drivers) - 123A-1, LE5-2, LE20
#2 sn 84289A & 88301A 123A-1, LE5-2, LE25
#3 sn 147270A & 162389A 2213, LE5-2, LE25
#4 sn 2102018A & 210222A 123A-3, LE5-2, LE25 (replacing with LE25-2)
#5 sn 306140A & 306168A 123A-3, LE5-2, LE25

I have been through all the cabinets (not the first) to replace binding posts and get them all in phase. By "in phase" I mean woofers firing out with amp+ connected to red+ binding post. Changes were as follows:

#1 Cabinet fired neg. (woofer moves in with amp+ to red binding post). I reversed connections at all 3 speakers.
#2 Cabinet fired pos. No changes made
#3 Cabinet fired neg. (woofer should have been 123A-1 - a pos. woofer) I reversed woofer connections only.
#4 Same as #3
#5 Cabinet fired neg. (correct for late model orange - non Century - foilcal) I reversed connections at all 3 speakers.

I believe by doing all this I have been listening to the speakers as JBL designed them to sound.

This said, I've had these up and running for a few weeks and have grown a bit weary of the upper mid/high response. Even with all "presence" pots turned all the way down.
I am building Murphy Xovers for at least 4 pair (#2 through #5). I will also be installing "Zilch plugs" as an attempt to tighten up the low/mid response. I employ (4) 4645B sub cabinets in my system so I'm not looking for much low end from the L-100's - just more punch. My questions are these:

1) I will be connecting new Xover speaker +out to the ACTUAL + terminal of each driver (not necessarily red). All drivers fire out. CORRECT???
2) Has anyone used the Murphy design with the original L-100 (vertical alignment and L20 tweeter)? Should I be building 5 sets of Xovers?

[Swerd]

This said, I've had these up and running for a few weeks and have grown a bit weary of the upper mid/high response. Even with all "presence" pots turned all the way down.

I'm not surprised at that.

I am building Murphy Xovers for at least 4 pair (#2 through #5). I will also be installing "Zilch plugs" as an attempt to tighten up the low/mid response. I employ (4) 4645B sub cabinets in my system so I'm not looking for much low end from the L-100's - just more punch. My questions are these:

1) I will be connecting new Xover speaker +out to the ACTUAL + terminal of each driver (not necessarily red). All drivers fire out. CORRECT???

Yes. In the Murphy crossover, all 3 drivers should be wired with the same polarity. The crossover requires that.

In the L-100A speakers I had, the woofer and tweeter were originally wired with the same polarity (in phase with each other), but the mid range was intentionally wired with opposite polarity. With the original crossover, that wiring allowed all 3 drivers to work in phase with each other. Over time, JBL apparently manufactured some of its drivers with different polarity. That's why I made the point about testing the drivers you have, as you did.

2) Has anyone used the Murphy design with the original L-100 (vertical alignment and L20 tweeter)? Should I be building 5 sets of Xovers?

I've heard the Murphy crossover only in the L-100A but not in the original L-100. So I don't have a direct answer for you. You'll be building at least 4 pairs of crossovers. You could easily temporarily wire one of them into one of your L-100s and compare it's sound to that of the Murphy crossover in the L-100A.

Please tell us about your results.

If you want a pdf copy of the design, send me your email address by PM.