L100 crossovers

[Zilch]

im asking zilch what is he saying, by two pole and all that, that is confusing, is he saying leave the crossover as is and run my le25 and 123a-3 as is? see if i do that i know the highs are going to be too high and my ears cannot take that. the changed crossover for my setup is suppose to allow more bottom end, and that is what i want, am i wrong about this? i do notice that the xover for my setup is simpler , i have to jump something but like i said it is greek to me.

That's total BS. There's no filter on the woofer in any of them. Plug the port with a plumbers' test plug if you want to get rid of the bass response "bump" and enjoy deeper bass from them. I recently wrote a thread on this mod:

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...946#post122946

Just do it. Build or buy the "A" crossover, too, and see if you can hear a difference. They're cheap on eBay.

The difference is in the crossover frequencies: 2.5 kHz, 7.5 kHz for the original L100, 1.5 kHz, 6 kHz for the "A" version....

[jspeaker]

you're rt clmrt but why the change in the xover then?, anyways, thanks guys for help , i cant wait to get these going.yea i think there is a set of the A crossovers on ebay rt now but i cant really tell because i dont know what mine look like yet, still waiting on the arrival.
is it safe to use the 123a-3 woofers with this xover as long as i switch polarity?

[Zilch]

yea see that other thread is confusing on exactly which ones to get, the guy said all they had were so and so, should i replace with same uf as they are now, or go ahead and replace with the changed uf for mf and hf?

Go with what they are. Let's have a look.

I assume you have L100 crossovers in your boxes. You can easily tell if they have coils in addition to the capacitors, that's them.

http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Te...NTURY%20ts.pdf

4 uF and 1.5 uF. Use 3.9, the stock value, for the 4. OR, use a 3.0 and a 1.0 or a pair of 2.0 connected in parallel if you want to be right on the 4.0 spec....

[Zilch]

Is it safe to use the 123a-3 woofers with this xover as long as i switch polarity?

Yes. Again, none of these crossovers do anything with the woofer....

[jspeaker]

i am assuming that too since he said they were not touched,yea i know the woofers go direct to the inputs, but heard or someone said somewhere on the net that the updated xovers made the highs less sensitive. but like he said i can just adjust the lpads for that if need be. im looking at the selons at partsexpress rt now, so do i just de-solder old and resolder the new caps on?

[clmrt]

Yes. I did it to my (insert another ubiquitous-but-not-JBL speaker here) and used $0.50 caps. Works like a charm.

[jspeaker]

ok

[Zilch]

im looking at the selons at partsexpress rt now, so do i just de-solder old and resolder the new caps on?

Yes. Look in that other thread for the pics of how it's done. You trace the circuit to identify which cap is which, if necessary.

Your biggest problem is getting AT the crossovers. You have to carefully remove the aluminum foil nameplates with a heat gun to get to the screws, as I recall....

[jspeaker]

will a blowdryer work? can u please give me link to that pic, i just now turned on subscribed threads instant email?

[Zilch]

Blowdryer works, too. Be patient doing it if you hope to reuse them. Otherwise, you end up with what Alex showed above.

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...ad.php?t=12675

Go to the L100 raffle thread to see how the Lansing Heritage pros did it, too....

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...6219#post26219

[jspeaker]

also if i hook these 123a-3s to the xover in cabs with the lx12-10 model , do i or do i do not switch polarity ?in that thread u say that the woofers are not reversed but only the xover.but in that thread it says on some the cone moves in . see on the diag of the lx12-10 model , LF, black of the 123a-1 goes to red.on diag of late model n100, LF 123a-3 black goes to black but if i am using 123a-3 in model lx12-10 then do i still need to reverse and send black to red?

[Zilch]

Someone needs to determine if 123A-3 is actually reversed polarity from 123A-1. There's statements that it is, and it uses the 2213 cone kit, which is reversed polarity. Spec sheet says if you use 2213, you reverse polarity.

So, I'd say you need to reverse it, yes....

[jspeaker]

the 123a-1 on the lx12-10 xover goes black to red, since woofer goes straight through to inputs that means that pol is reversed on the 123a-1,
so on the n100 the 123a-3 goes straight to xover and it is black to black , so would that mean that using my 123a-3s with the lx12-10 xover i would still go black to black? maybe i should contact jble directly on this unless someone knows for sure.
a while back on a different project of mine someone said hook up wires to terminals on speaker, then hook them to either side of an aaa battery and when woofer pulses out then that is correct way, but i am not sure on this. if woofer pulses out does that mean it is correct?

[Zilch]

I don't mean to put you off, but there's PLENTY of info in these forums regarding JBL speaker polarity. Use the "Search" function to find it.

A 1.5 V battery connected (+) to red terminal will pull the cone in on JBL convention drivers. Industry standard is the opposite. Some JBL drivers follow industy standard. 123A-1's one of those, according to me just testing one. 2213's the opposite. I don't know what 123A-3 does; you have one. Test it and report your finding here....

[jspeaker]

yea but i read different things, no one knows for sure,and especially hooking a 123a-3 up to the lx12-10 xover, i will test my 123a-3 but what am i looking for, out or in? and if all the woofers run straight to xover , wouldnt this mean that the 123a-1 is the only one reversed as in red to green to black comin from red on speaker going through xover(green) to speaker terminal black?