Can someone please confirm if the upgraded triangle form for drivers with the le25 tweeter has an upgraded/different crossover then the older straight line L100s that used the le20 tweeter? and if so what is the difference?
i put le25 tweeters in my straight line L100 cabs,le52 mids and i am going to use 123a-3 woofers. whic update method on here do i need to follow to get best sound?
At the bottom of the index page, last forum entry is a link named "Links."
The first of those links is "JBL Consumer tech sheet links."
Look 'em up there....
The line array models were the later models.Originally Posted by jspeaker
LE25 is the original tweeter, the line array tweeter is a le25-2 or something, but it is later modeled. More cheaply made.
I used the original LE25 tweeters in my line array L100s, but I had to cut the hole out bigger. It sounds about the same, maybe a bit nicer than the later le25.
I say, put all the drivers in and listen to them, I think you will like the sound, I know I like my modded L100s.
Here is a pic of what mine look like. I also used the later LE5-8 mids in mine, the le5-2 is a better mid and is what is supposed to be in those cabs.
Good luck, and dont forget pics.
Wrong.Wrong.Wrong.That shoulda been a clue....
Please, Alex, either know what you're talking about or research the information BEFORE posting here.
You wanna be a L100 expert? Do your homework. Make a project of it for the benefit of everyone.
People like jspeaker come here for reliable information about JBL heritage.
While I appreciate your desire to participate and contribute, posting misinformation in Technical Help is NOT a good approach to accomplishing that....
wew, thanks zilch , i thought i was going absolutly crazy until i read ur post. yea ok i am on the rt track, just confused as to which crossover i need and exactly how to update it?i build computers but just now getting into vintage hifi stuff like klipsch and what not, currently trying to put together these L100s and have always been a fan of jbl ,waiting on all parts to get here. i just hear and have read that when they went to the le25 in later model triangle shape holes, that a better crossover was used. i bought a pair of cabs straight line, with le25 and xovers , but i dont think the xovers were modded, only the hole to fit the le25s.also i will be using le52 mids and 123a-3 woofers.
Prolly want to emulate this schematic - -
http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Te...0LATE%20ts.pdf
Correct for:
123A3
LE5-2
LE25
...according to the XO schem. If this matches what you have, assemble and go!
yes clmrt that is the one i am looking at.ok apparently my setup is going to be the L100a late model even though i am using straight line cabs, now , i am looking at the schematics diagram of the xover and specs in links link where u said to go at L100a late model,
i have no idea what i am looking at, i know it looks like the filters will need replacing. and the woofer is black to black and green to red and i know what the lpads are, the rest is greek mixed with french to me..dont know where to get filters or what to call them when looking and buying, parts express i think has them but dont know where to start.
As you see in the links, the rudimentary single-pole crossover of L100A became standard for many iterations of the L100 "family" of speakers.
The "West Coast" sound of L100 is unique. If that's what you want, I'd go with the original two-pole crossover for the in-line array. Comparing that to the simpler one would be an inexpensive experiment. There's basically nothing to them but a pair of capacitors. Then YOU could decide which is best!
Later attempts were made at "fixing" that driver set via more elaborate crossovers. Ultimately, different drivers became the answer.
Many, if not most, of the regulars here have L100s, including myself. They're fun, of course, but they are not accurate.
There's ways to "help" them, but they're best just let being what they are. Every time I contemplate upgrading them, I end up with 4412s.
I believe the in-line cabs have a vent, but no duct - a hole with no tube? A'la early 4310?
May want to also mess with sealing the vent and run it that way, see what you think.
The L100 is like some DIY'er just throwing drivers in a cab, capping them for a simple XO, and potting the MF/HF. Simple, fast and easy.
The $$$ was already spent engineering those drivers. All they had to do was make a million of them and rake in the cash.
I don't work here, I'm just bored and like to read.
so are u saying leave the original xover in there even though i am using le25 and 123a-3?
I hope you're not asking me!
im asking zilch what is he saying, by two pole and all that, that is confusing, is he saying leave the crossover as is and run my le25 and 123a-3 as is? see if i do that i know the highs are going to be too high and my ears cannot take that. the changed crossover for my setup is suppose to allow more bottom end, and that is what i want, am i wrong about this? i do notice that the xover for my setup is simpler , i have to jump something but like i said it is greek to me.
Yes, and try the later (simpler) version, too!
Basically, it doesn't matter.
I'd upgrade the capacitors in factory crossovers using Solens from Parts Express, as shown in that other thread you posted in.
Like clmrt says, there's not much to these. Don't overthink them; there's not much to be done....
yea see that other thread is confusing on exactly which ones to get, the guy said all they had were so and so, should i replace with same uf as they are now, or go ahead and replace with the changed uf for mf and hf?
Wondering what makes you say that - about the highs and all, I mean. You can dial in the drivers with the pots.
When I had these, or like these, I usually had the mid down almost all the way, and the tweeter backed off pretty well, too. And the port blocked....
Monkeying with the XO's by ear is a good way to kill a winter, I guess.
OR - -
Go active 3 way, auto-eq and digital XO. WOOT!
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