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Thread: Ashly XR2001 Crossover Review

  1. #1
    Senior Member HipoFutura's Avatar
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    Ashly XR2001 Crossover Review

    I replaced a DBX 234XL 3-way stereo crossover with an Ashly XR2001. The difference between the two pieces is so pronounce I wanted to share this with other Forum members who are considering an active crossover.

    The Ashly piece is considerably more expensive than the DBX, but well worth it.

    What I found most noticeable was the "Response" control that allows you to contour the slope at each crossover point. This is very effective and really separated the two crossovers in my mind. For some reason the DBX x-over sucked the bass out of my system. The VU meters on my amp were pounding but there was very little bass coming out of the speakers. I still don't know were it went! That problem is gone with the Ashly x-over - the bass is back.

    At the volume levels I listen to there is no discernable difference when the Ashly x-over is in or out of the configuration. I can't hear any color that it introduces.

    I give the piece an A+. It excels in three ways: It has all the functionality I need. It doesn't color the sound. The crossover freqs/slopes are smooth, natural, and configurable.

    Good riddance to the DBX x-over!

    Don

  2. #2
    Senior Member Baron030's Avatar
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    Ashly Adjustment Tips

    Hi Don
    Congratulations on your crossover upgrade.
    As an Ashly XR4001 owner, I can also give Ashly an A+ on its performance.
    Since, I have had mine for over a year now. I can give you some tips on adjusting it. For the benefit of people, like myself that don't own a RTA, I will describe the procedures that I am using to adjust my own system. As, for test equipment, I am currently using a DBX RTA-M microphone and a PreSonus Tube Preamp as an inexpensive sound pressure meter. And all of my testing source materials were downloaded from the internet for free. So, for now, I don't have a lot of money invested test equipment.

    For adjusting the output levels on the Ashly, I find the "mute" buttons extremely helpful. These buttons allow you to mute all of the outputs and then release (un-mute) one output channel at a time. This makes it every easy to measure the output level of each driver individually. For testing signal source material, I found a full-spectrum pink-noise wave file works best. I always start my adjustment process by placing a microphone at my favorite listening position. With all of the outputs muted, a single output channel is released at one time. Its SPL level is measured and adjusted until it matches a "base line" SPL level. I usually start with the left woofer and then use that output level as my "base line" SPL level. The key here is to get all of the output levels adjusted so that each driver has the exactly same SPL regardless of its frequency band. This technique works really well for voicing a speaker system and it also ensures that the stereo balance is properly adjusted for all of the frequency bands. This is really critical for good stereo imaging.

    For adjusting the "Response" controls on the Ashly, the ideal test signal source material is a sweeping sine wave tone that spans across the cross over point. The "Response" control is then adjusted until the SPL variations are minimized. Since, room resonances can greatly degrade the accuracy of this test. It is helpful to move the speaker away from the walls of the room during testing. This reduces the amount of reflected sound energy. The SPL meter should be about 1 meter away from the drivers, with its height set equal distant between the two drivers that are being tested. Before attempting to adjust the "Response" control, it is a really important to run the pink noise output level tests first, otherwise you will get some false reading. If for some reason you find that the best "Response" setting to be something other than 6 db, then I would recommend that you run some additional tests to determine the underlying cause for this condition.

    To give an example of just how useful this "Response" control really is. I am using 2446H/2382A horns for frequencies up to 8 KHz and 2405s for all frequencies above 8 KHz in my new system. Currently, I am not using any equalization on the 2446H/2382A horns. So, as a result, the 2446H/2382A horn's frequency response starts a roll off at about 5 KHz and it drops by about 3dB by the time it reaches 8KHz. This causes a small shallow hole to appear in the response right below the 8 KHz. cross over point. By adjusting the "Response" control to 5 db, I am able to fill in this hole in completely. That is one neat trick that can't be done with a DBX cross over.
    Enjoy the Ashly,
    Baron030

  3. #3
    Senior Member HipoFutura's Avatar
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    Thanks Baron! Way to scientific for me... I just stick my head between the stacks of speakers and turn knobs till things sound "right". The HF crossover is 8K hz and the LF is 80 hz with the response set at 6db. This x-over has really brought out the best in my speakers and electronics.

    Don

  4. #4
    Senior Member JBLnsince1959's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baron030
    Hi Don
    Congratulations on your crossover upgrade.
    As an Ashly XR4001 owner, I can also give Ashly an A+ on its performance.
    as an XR4001 4-way crossover owner myself I agree. Ashlys are wonderful to hear and work with . The tips you gave were dead-on. I'm glad you typed it and not me.

    I'm sad to say tho, that since I stored away my BIG stuff and now only listen to the PS series I no longer need the crossover so it now just sits around. Don't be surprised if you see it listed for sell some time...

    Glad to hear you enjoy your new toy

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