Very nice.
Great work on those boxes.
Very nice.
Great work on those boxes.
Johnny Haugen Sørgård
You're going to use those things in an apartment? Holy crap! Nice work...
I am very surprised that none of my neighbors ever complained about the noise coming from my power tools. These boxes were constructed in my kitchen dinette area, over a period of nearly a year. That’s a lot of noise in a very small area.
Since, I don't own or have access to any large bench sized tools. All of the work was done with a hand held circular saw and a plunge router. Each piece of wood was first rough using a hand held circular saw. And then a router was used to mill all the wood edges straight and smooth. This process involved clamping 4' long straight edge ruler to the stock and then using the ruler as a "rip fence" to guide the router. While, it does take a lot more time, using router to make precise cuts, then it would using a table saw. The finished results can be just as precise as with any large bench tool. Unfortunately, this "rip fence" & router technique does limit your projects to only 90 degree butted-type wood joints. A 45 degree locked-miter or spine-miter joint really does require a large bench tool and a lot of skill to successfully pull off.
About the only angled cuts that I made in this the entire project, involve the construction of the doggy box. The back wall of the dog box is angled, so that the depth varies from about 4 to 8 inches. And the process of milling the back edges of the dog box to a compound angle was very involved. It required the mounting a router onto a large scrape of plywood and then mounting some 1" x 2" rails onto the box for the plywood to ride on during the milling process.
Since, I have had this new system up and running for nearly a year now. I have not had any complaints about load music. But, if I ever wanted to get out of my lease, it would be a very simple matter of playing “Pink Floyd’s Time”, at about 3 o’clock in the morning.
Actually, “Pink Floyd’s Time” and a few tracks on “Van Helen’s 1984” album, are the only sources that I have found so far that will cause the “Green signal present lights” to flicker on the Crown D-75 amplifier that is feeding the 2405s.
Oh, and responding to Spkrman57’s question about the possibility of swapping out the 2226s for some 2235s. If at some point in the future, I should start feeling “Bass Deprived”. I would rather follow Drew Daniel’s advice and add some sub-woofers. Don’t you think that 4 – 2242Hs or a pair of those new 2269Gs would do a better job of fattening up the bottom end?
Baron030
Damn those are sweet Baron030!. Something to be extremely proud of and a real treat to see here in detail. I just love this kind of thread, it really gets the creative juices flowing. Congratulations on a fine project. Steve G.
Now that's the ticket... TOO much is just right!Originally Posted by Baron030
Beautiful work.
4406, 4412A, L100, L100t3 (3 pair), L1, L7, 4645C, 4660A, 4695B, SR4735 and various DIY JBL Pro loaded systems.
Over this last weekend, I finally finished installing all of the drivers into the new enclosures. The attached photo is a composite of two separate images and it gives you panoramic view of my living room.
With the construction phase of this project nearly completed, I can now focus on the tuning and tweaking this new system. Also, I will have more time to post and share what I have learned of far.
Currently, I have the system is up and running with everything pretty much roughly dialed in.
So, it’s sounding pretty amazing.
Needless to say, this is a major improvement over my old 030 system.
Baron030
Very nice work.
4406, 4412A, L100, L100t3 (3 pair), L1, L7, 4645C, 4660A, 4695B, SR4735 and various DIY JBL Pro loaded systems.
With the components you're using, those would make also killer speakers for a band!
John
You really do want to break your lease!
Ron
Quoted from Baron030:
Oh, and responding to Spkrman57’s question about the possibility of swapping out the 2226s for some 2235s. If at some point in the future, I should start feeling “Bass Deprived”. I would rather follow Drew Daniel’s advice and add some sub-woofers. Don’t you think that 4 – 2242Hs or a pair of those new 2269Gs would do a better job of fattening up the bottom end?
JBL Pro for home use!
Originally Posted by Baron030
Great job....
Talk About A Lease Breaker Special
I dunno, he may have a ways to go yet...Originally Posted by Chas
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...1&postcount=64
glen
"Make it sound like dinosaurs eating cars"
- Nick Lowe, while producing Elvis Costello
Awesome Craftmanship! I wish I was your neighbor, so I could hear'em
everyday!
Pioneer VSX1015TX
Musical Concepts/Hafler DH500
Musical Concepts/Hafler DH220
4344mkII
L44
LC1-CENTER
Definitive Technolgy Pro Sub
Panasonic 46" LCD HDTV
Monster HTS3500 Power Center
The plan that I had in mind when I started my project was have to the 2226 drivers enclosed in a box with net internal volume of 5 cubic foot and have the bass reflex ports tuned to 40 Hz. This would follow the recommendations on the JBL 2226H spec sheet.
Using the WinISD program, I calculated that I would need to have 3 ports with an inside diameter of 3.94” and a length of 9.4 to reach my target tuning of 40 Hz. Well, being a little unsure of the WinISD programs accuracy, I decided that I would initially leave the ports a little long at 10.5 inches. And then I could do some tests and trim the ports shorter as needed.
When I started testing my enclosures the 10.5” ports, I expected the tuning to be around a WinISD program predicted frequency of 38 Hz. But, my test results clearly showed that the tuning to be a about 31 Hz.
The only explanation that I have for this error is that I forgot to take into account on the effect of using R-11 fiberglass insulation on all of the enclosures inside surfaces.
The fiberglass has clearly increased effective acoustic volume of the enclosure dramatically. So, the really big question is this. What to about this virtual volume issue?
One possible solution would be to remove the R-11 fiberglass and then replace it with a thinner layer fiberglass. This would hopefully shrink the virtual volume back down to match it’s actual volume.
Or I could leave the R-11 fiberglass alone and accept that the enclosure is now “virtually” much larger and possibly come up with a slightly different enclosure tuning.
Lately, I have been experimenting with different ports lengths and I am starting to see a pattern emerging. After, running tests with 9.25” and 8.0” port lengths, it appears that my test results are very closely matching the WinISD predicted results for an enclosure volume of about 7.5 cubic feet. The 9.25” port tuning came in at about 33Hz. and the 8.0” results are posted below, which are coming just in a little below 35Hz.
And from just listening to my system, I have found that the 8” port tuning sounds a lot better than the other port lengths that I have tried. So, this would suggest that I am getting a little closer finding the correct enclosure tuning.
But, I am not sure what I do next. Should I pull out some fiberglass or shorten the port tubes further?
So, any advice here would be more than welcome.
Thanks, Baron030
BB6P says 3 x 3.938" vents at 8.065" long will give 40 Hz tuning with typical (all sides but the front baffle) fill.
"Heavy" fill lowers it to 37.95 Hz.
I'd leave the R11 in place and continue trying shorter vents until you achieve the tuning you like best for your room and listening preferences, which may be something other than the target 40 Hz.
The insulation is doing more for you than just adding volume, i.e., damping.
R11 is kinda low density, so I'd say you have the equivalent of typical fill in place, and should leave it there.
It's common for the simulated port lengths not to produce the exact tuning predicted in the built box. There are other variables involved, and the empirical method you're using is almost always a part of the design finalization process.
Note: Fmin provides an "approximation" of the box tuning only, so don't consider it absolute. There are more precise means of determining the actual Fb. For example, at what frequency is woofer cone movement minimal?
Clearly, you are close to where you want to be. Just tune to taste, now....
And also, you can adjust one of the ports by itself and tune it that way instead of messing with all 3 ports.
Ron
JBL Pro for home use!
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