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Thread: Pushed in Domes - how to fix??

  1. #1
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    Pushed in Domes - how to fix??

    I am picking up a pair of L100's today and the two tweeters have their domes pushed in and one of the woofers is slightly pushed in. How do I fix this?

    I know that I can remove the domes with an exacto-knife and reglue after popping.

    The seller said to take a needle and crazyglue the end to the dome and then pull it out (I would think that you should hold the dome).

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks,

    Chris

  2. #2
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    hmmm

    Quote Originally Posted by L100t Owner
    (snip)

    The seller said to take a needle and crazyglue the end to the dome and then pull it out (I would think that you should hold the dome).

    (snip)

    Chris
    That sounds marginally effective at best and like baloney at worst. If it works, then why didn't the current owner do it?

    Of course, if you try it and it works, let us know. I'll eat my words.
    Out.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Ducatista47's Avatar
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    I once pulled out a woofer dome with carefull application of a vacuum cleaner nozzle. Personally, I think I got lucky. The force builds suddenly at the end and it becomes like trying to pick up a powerfull magnet with another and still not let them make contact. A last resort for sure.

    It might work safely if the force were moderated with layers of cloth, leaving just enough pull to do the job and allowing contact with the dome.

    It was a 119HS-1, in a Control 10.

    Clark in Peoria
    Information is not Knowledge; Knowledge is not Wisdom
    Too many audiophiles listen with their eyes instead of their ears


  4. #4
    MJC
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    I've polked a small needle into a dome and gently worked it back out, moving the needle around in a circle, so the tip was actually flush to the inside of the dome. After I got it back out I put a spot of my daughter's nail polish on the hole. Sounds as good as new.

  5. #5
    Senior Member JBLRaiser's Avatar
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    What's that sucking sound?

    Here's a place that sells an attachment for a vacuum cleaner that will pull the cone out. http://tmt.stores.yahoo.net/conyourvacto.html Wet the cone first( I put a drop on my finger and touch the cap) leave for a minute or two and using the small round plasic tube, place it over the cap gingerly at first to get the feel for the amount of suction and out it comes. Use a hair dryer to dry the cap and prevent any moisture from reaching the coil. It has worked well for me. I have done dozens of pushed in caps this way with varying results. They all come out, but the smoothness of the cap will be based on the extent of the pushed in damage.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the tips. If it doesn't work, I probbaly just need to cut the domes off, pop off and reglue.

    I just picked the L100's up, they are in beautiful condition. No grill foams or badges. Anyone have badges for sale?

    I have also been reading about the crossovers. The L100's have a 1st order network. Can anyone post a design that is better (2nd or third order)? I recapped my L100T's with Daytons bypassed with AudioCap Thetas with really good results. Any ideas here?

    Thanks,

    Chris

  7. #7

  8. #8
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    That 4312 crossover does not look right. There is no inductor on the midrange or woofer. Does the speaker just use the driver's natural rolloff?

    The Klipsch Type A does this and the K55V has a bump in its response at 9,000 hz. A tweak is to add a trap in this section. Any similar problems with the L100 drivers?

    Thanks,

    Chris

  9. #9
    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    L100s have 2nd order highpass on both mid and tweeter, looks like. They also let the woofer play full range.

    L100As are first order. They do too.

    Yes, L100s have a bump. In the bass. From the undersize box and its tuning.

    That, plus a rising response in the midrange and the lack of VHF is what makes them L100s.

    [They also lack extended bass....]

    http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Te...NTURY%20ts.pdf

    http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Te...L100A%20ts.pdf
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  10. #10
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    That's a different crossover than I was looking at. I just got them yesterday. I'll need to open them up and look more closely.

    If it does have a second order crossover, I'll rebuild them with Solens or Daytons and bypass with 0.01 uF Thetas. Should I add an inductor to the woofer?

    I'm not too worried that these speakers have sonic design flaws. They are for my home office because they are "shelf" speakers and I lusted after them as a kid. I used to dream about those "huge" white woofers. They sounded pretty good when hooked up to a system here with a tubed CD and Preamp. I want to pick up a vintage receiver and keep this all retro. I will only listen for mybe an hour or so at a time.

    Chris

  11. #11
    Senior Member spwal's Avatar
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    suck on it. worked for me many a time. suck lighty.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Storm's Avatar
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    That's too funny.

    Suck on it? I bet it works, though!

    This forum is going from G rated to XXX pretty fast!



    I dont mind a little humor once in a while.



    -Storm.

  13. #13
    Member Guy in WNY's Avatar
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    Use tape. As in "Scotch" tape.

    I've used tape to pull out dents in the dome.
    Just put a strip of tape on the center of the dent, leaving enough loose to grab a hold of, and give it a quick yank straight out and off.
    The dent should pop right out.
    Guy in WNY

  14. #14
    Senior Member spwal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Storm View Post
    That's too funny.

    Suck on it? I bet it works, though!

    This forum is going from G rated to XXX pretty fast!



    I dont mind a little humor once in a while.



    -Storm.

    I sucked on my merlin silk domes. It worked like a charm... Keep your mind in the gutter!

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