Hello... This site is Awesome!!

[Naimless]

Bo

I'm applying the 1.5v directly to the terminals of two spare drivers I have. What you said makes perfect sense, except that neither MF or HF drivers have any indication as to the polarity of the terminals. Both drivers have one male and one female spade connector. So applying the battery + to the male terminal and getting the cone to move out would mean that this is the negative terminal, since the driver is -ve.

I believe that I have a pair of L100A's, since the crossover lacks inductors and I need to check my LF driver to see if it is a 123A-1 or 123-A3 to verify if it is the L100A or L100A (late).

So from the driver table listed a couple of posts above, the LF should move in with + voltage applied to the red terminal, the same with the MF, but the HF should move out.

Thanks for the help !!!

[boputnam]

Originally posted by Naimless
...neither MF or HF drivers have any indication as to the polarity of the terminals. Both drivers have one male and one female spade connector.

Hey, Hamish... Cool. I always get confused as to the sex convention of those "quick connect" connectors, but the WHT lead connects to what is the female, or "JBL positive" (i.e., industry negative), MF post.

However, at the risk of a friendship , I find I have to differ from Giskard's assesment per the Link provided by Widget. I was confused by his post, and I've now reviewed this again, and again, and with the 123A being a positive transducer, the L100 Century (first iteration) would be LF IN on positive to Red cabinet post (see the schematic closely - it specifically sez BLK "TO WOOFER RED"). Negative to a positive transducer, if you will, gives a cone IN in motion.

For your L100A's - both L100A's - are LF out when positive applied to Red cabinet terminal. That is, if connected JBL Factory...

[4313B]

- the female terminal on the transducer is "red" and the male terminal is "black".

Black is "hot" or "positive", just like in every properly wired home and business in the United States

JBL has since changed their polarity to match the rest of the miscreants who claim to manufacture audio transducers.

I tried to get Bill to buy JBL and then buy out, or crush, every other audio transducer manufacturer wanabe before JBL was forced to join the herd but he was busy that day.

[4313B]

Originally posted by Mr. Widget
Check out the fourth post.

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...=&threadid=164

Naw! The fifth post is WAY better. The fourth post could be backasswards since Bo found that the original low frequency transducers were backasswards. The recone kits are wired "normal" At least some of them are I guess the point now is to always double check

*****

BTW, if we need to redo that cheat sheet let's get Don to pull it and we can repost what Bo has since discovered.

[boputnam]

Originally posted by Giskard
I tried to get Bill to buy JBL and then buy out, or crush, every other audio transducer manufacturer wanabe before JBL was forced to join the herd but he was busy that day.

[boputnam]

Hmm...

Reviewing this for a friend, I noticed an error with my reading of the L100A (Late Model). It should be:

L100A (Late Model) - 123A-3 woofer
LF = (-)
MF = (-)
HF = (+)

And note this addition:

4311B - 2213H woofer
LF = (+)
MF = (-)
HF = (+)

Apologies, and let the confusion resume!!

I fear even starting this thread again...

Well, just be careful what you do - you've got some inter-cabinet phasing issues you might wanna 'speriment with.

I'm not an expert on "your Family from L", but from the tech sheets kindly supplied by The One Giskard, here's what I gleaned:

L100
LF = (-)
MF = (-)
HF = (-)

L100A
LF = (+)
MF = (-)
HF = (+)

L100A (Late Model)
LF = (+)
MF = (-)
HF = (+)

L110
LF = (-)
MF = (+)
HF = (-)
(this is the more common JBL phasing - with LF being (-) )

L110A
LF = (-)
MF = (+)
HF = (-)

L112 - II
LF = (-)
MF = (+)
HF = (-)

L166/L166A
LF = (-)
MF = (-)
HF = (-)

What's the point - you ask? If you are pairing or grouping cabinets where like drivers are oppositely phased, you will get cancelling (rather than doubling). Say you walled the family room with the L112 and L166 - the MF's would be cancelling, providing a very different sound experience than walling with say, the L110's and L112 (they are phased alike).

Ha! If you paired the L100A's with the L110 or L112's, you wouldn't hear anything! Perfect!