speaker cab plans...

[coruphius]

i know this has prob been asked, but has anyone or can suggest plans for something like a 120Ti using a 123-A.. i have the 123-A's LE-5 2's and 044Ti's in my hands atm, but no cabs. im working on finding x-overs too

[Robh3606]

If you are looking along the lines of an 120Ti I would look at the 4312A for the enclosure volume and crossover. Basically what you would end up with is an L100 with an 044ti driver instead of the Le-25. The L100 and 120Ti are different animals with the L100 voiced as a Control Monitor with a bass bump and a presence peak. If you want the same flatter frequency response as the 120Ti you need to change woofers, unless you go up to about 5-6 cubic ft, and midranges. Really depends on what you want as an end result.

Rob

[coruphius]

sweet mate, thanx for the info have they got plans for the 4312A's on here somewhere or should i look on the net? spose i can always use the dimensions of the actual 4312A and build something like it

[Robh3606]

This should help you with the basics

Rob

[coruphius]

sweet, now i have some idea on what to do, thanks mate

[duaneage]

THe 123 would not be my first choice for a 12, I would look at 2214 H or a 128 H as they work with 1.7 cu ft and produce good bass to about 43 hz.

[GordonW]

If you build a cabinet of about 2.5 to 3.0 cubic feet, and tune it to about 28 Hz, you can get bass out of a 123A that goes a LOT lower than the 128H or 2124H. F3 in the low 30s, for the 123A, vs. about 40 Hz for the 128H in 1.7 cubic feet.

The 123A is no problem, if you're willing to give it enough internal air volume...

As for suggested dimension: I used the 123A in a cabinet, that was about 14 1/2" wide, 14" deep and 30" tall. About 2.5 cubic feet. Sounded great. You could even go taller and less depth (ie, floor-stander, say 14" wide, 12" deep and 38" tall), as long as you keep the width around 14" to 14 1/2". IME, that's the only real critical dimension, for the standard L100/4311/4312 type crossovers to work right (baffle step effects, etc).

Regards,
Gordon.

[coruphius]

i could do that, but i want them to integrate with my JBL 2225H woofers that i have. i was searching for doing sub box designs for the 2225H's but i couildnt really find much. i did model them in winISD. 120Ltrs at 40hz using 2x 110mm ports at 211.1mm length and has 0.04 vent mach.

i dont know much bout this program, but it looks okay i guess. but i want something that crosses over with the jbl subs if that makes sense. i did look at the 123-a's in winISD and did notice the bump, but i didnt mind that.

btw how much power can the 123-A's handle? and has anyuone seen them with the black cone.. they are the original cones. and they are 123-A1's

[Zilch]

i was searching for doing sub box designs for the 2225H's but i couildnt really find much.

Somewhere in these forums is a link to a "Wonder Sub," or some such name design project using 2225H, including an active EQ circuit to make it work.

Generally speaking, that driver is not as well suited as others such as 2235H for sub duty. TCB will kinda do it, tho, if you don't mind BIG:

http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/4685.pdf

[10 Watt Street]

This one is based on the 2226:

http://member.newsguy.com/~stigerik/almighty/index.html