Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 42

Thread: 4345 Restoration Thread

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    1,162

    4345 Restoration Thread

    Hi gang, I thought I would start a new thread to tell you about my attempt to resurrect a pair of Canadian 4345's. I feel very privileged to have custody of these monsters and I also want to send my thanks to everyone so far for their offers of information, reconing and encouragement.

    As matter of fact, a big thank you especially to Don, for creating this place! Without this forum, I wouldn't have had access to a pair of 4345's. AND I would still know squat about JBL's.

    Last weekend I pulled the 2245H's and 2122H's and successfully got them moved down to the basement into an area where I can work.

    Earl K has kindly offered to post my pics into this thread, so if you are reading this, Earl please feel free to add them here. More later.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    GTA, Ont.
    Posts
    5,111
    Here ya go Chas !

    - I've got a couple of more reductions to execute before they can get posted .
    - Those postings should happen this evening .

    Attached Images Attached Images     

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    1,162
    Thanks Earl, nice work.

    Okay, the first thing I had to do was replace the piece of the base that had fallen off, you can see it lying on top of the cabinet in the fourth pic.

    Interestingly, it was only lightly glued on and tacked with three finishing nails set in from the inside of the cabinet. I glued and scewed it back on.

    This weekend I hope to start cleaning up the baffles and the veneer. As you can see, the previous owner had added some stick-on velcro that has left a yellowish residue.

    Anyone know how I can get this residue off without affecting the JBL blue paint?

    Second, there are a couple of nasty gouges in the veneer on the sides, one of which is shown. Suggestions on what to do here? The damage appears to be a long compression groove, rather than a tear of the veneer. Any thoughts, folks?

    Also, before these babies get oiled up, there are minor paint spots and light cup rings on top. How should I deal with these? Steel wool or a light sanding?

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    GTA, Ont.
    Posts
    5,111
    - Here are a couple more pics.

    Re; the displayed "compression-type" scratch ,

    - I've seen this sort of repair previously mentioned , as a type that may come out with a medium-hot iron working through a towel though I've never done that sort of repair myself .



    - Charles, I'm off-line till Monday evening ( - I'm glad that you saw that I changed the order of the above pics )
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    1,162
    Thanks Earl. Re. the compression marks, I am still thinking about how to fix'em. Maybe I will leave them well enough alone - at least, for now.

    Nice grille frames, eh? I have no idea what to do with them yet.

    Today, I re-painted the bases flat black. Flat doesn't seem to be what JBL chose for these or my 4430's, but it doesn't look like a satin finish either:dont-know.

    Bo's pictures make his bases look like they are gloss black. Hey Bo, did you repaint yours?

    I also managed to get the foilcal that was lifted at one corner to lie flat with the use of some good old fashioned contact cement and heavy metal weights.

    I tried some rubbing alcohol to remove the glue gunk on the baffles from the stick-on velcro the previous owner used, it didn't work.

    I remember someone telling me about "Goo-Off" "Goo be Gone" or something like that. Anybody heard of it? I wonder if it would affect the paint?

    I don't think the veneer has seen oil in their entire lifetime. I am debating what to treat it with before oiling.

    Any suggestions?

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Central Coast California
    Posts
    9,042

    Smile

    It's called Goo Gone, and it's available in most grocery stores, hardware stores, paint stores, and building supply houses (Home Depot, Lowe's). It's got a citrus-y flavor to it, and it needs to soak in a bit before it really does the job. Hopefully, the blue paint won't absorb it, too, and rub off when you try to clean the residue.

    Steve Gonzales posted a thread a year or so ago detailing how to raise the grain back up from a compression groove. Search for his thread on restoring L220 cabs, or PM him.
    Out.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    1,162
    Quote Originally Posted by Titanium Dome
    It's called Goo Gone, and it's available in most grocery stores, hardware stores, paint stores, and building supply houses (Home Depot, Lowe's). It's got a citrus-y flavor to it, and it needs to soak in a bit before it really does the job. Hopefully, the blue paint won't absorb it, too, and rub off when you try to clean the residue.

    Steve Gonzales posted a thread a year or so ago detailing how to raise the grain back up from a compression groove. Search for his thread on restoring L220 cabs, or PM him.
    Hey, thanks Ti Dome. I'll have a look for that stuff and Steve's thread.

    Yesterday I rubbed the cabinets down with super fine steel wool. It nicely removed the odd paint spatter and really smoothed out the veneer.

    Then two applications of Watco oil natural were applied. Holy smokes! What a difference. The grain came alive as it always does - although far nicer than my 4430's. I guess there is something about large boxes with acres of veneered area .

    Happy Easter

  8. #8
    Senior Member Ducatista47's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Peoria, Illinois
    Posts
    1,886
    I know you have already straightened out the foilcal, but I thought I would post this anyway. A friend and dealer here said a hair dryer will loosen them for removal and leave the adhesive. After flattening, reinstall. I have not tried it yet.

    Clark
    Information is not Knowledge; Knowledge is not Wisdom
    Too many audiophiles listen with their eyes instead of their ears


  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    1,162
    Yeah, thanks Clark, I had remembered someone actually posting that idea here a while ago, but as the pic shows, it had only lifted a slight amount. The contact cement worked great.

    I just added a third and final oiling..mama mia, that grain! It almost looks three dimensional. Now I have to get the cone drivers sorted out. I won't worry about the HF diaphragms until I have a listen.

    Based on my experience with my 4430's a couple of years ago, I pulled the crossovers and applied some Pro Gold to the press-fit wire connnectors and sprayed the rear bi-amp switch with some Caig Deoxit. They're a buggar to get at, though...

  10. #10
    Super Moderator Hofmannhp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Central Germany
    Posts
    1,266

    4345

    Hi Chas,

    long time no contact....

    A question to your 4345. Can you confirm, that the front wedged edges of the cabs are made from solid walnut wood. The pic Earl posted (the 2nd) shows this detail and it looks like solid wood.

    HP
    Please help us save more info about the vintage systems. Let us register your speakers and drivers.

  11. #11
    Senior Seņor boputnam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    northern california
    Posts
    6,142
    Quote Originally Posted by Chas
    Bo's pictures make his bases look like they are gloss black. Hey Bo, did you repaint yours?
    And, they are at-the-least a semi-gloss.

    I did, however, touch-up some small scuffs at the very base with a black Sharpie...
    bo

    "Indeed, not!!"

  12. #12
    Senior Seņor boputnam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    northern california
    Posts
    6,142

    Moving the 4345's

    Be careful about how you move these.

    Get a hand truck - one of those things UPS uses for delivery.

    Only put the hand truck in from the rear - there is a gap in the base for this.

    Only lay the cabinets on their back when ON the hand truck. You will not be able to raise them again, otherwise.

    Put a towel between the hand truck and the back of the cabinet.

    Be careful.
    bo

    "Indeed, not!!"

  13. #13
    Steve Gonzales
    Guest

    Watco

    I'm glad to see you tried that wonderful product. The compression dents are a little tricky to raise, you have to use a damp cloth set over the dent and a hot clothes iron. The steam will raise the grain back up. At this point, I wouldn't do it, unless they are something you can't live with. Doesn't seem like it. Let's just say that these wonderful Giants have some character. I think those adhesive drips are going to be trouble. Anything that will remove them will likely remove the blue too as Rob alluded to, put that on the back burner until later. I have a suggestion for the bases. Get some full gloss DEFT clear lacquer and spray that over the flat black, it will bring the sheen up to snuff, it dries quick and will last. I expected that these would be in poor shape judging by your first comments, they are in pretty good shape from what I see. I believe member Norealtalent has some original NOS JBL 2421 diaphragms, I don't know if he would sell them, but it would be worth a shot, PM him when you decide if you're gonna replace yours. The grill frames could be pieced back together by using a thin metal "stint" and glue, member Riessen, is someone to contact in regards to reproductions and recovering them, his work is outstanding, if you didn't know that already. Last but not least, you have a great caretaker attitude towards these super rare speakers, they deserve a home like that, I think you should make your LHS signature "The Fortunate One" . Regards, Steve G

  14. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    1,162
    Quote Originally Posted by Hofmannhp
    Hi Chas,

    long time no contact....

    A question to your 4345. Can you confirm, that the front wedged edges of the cabs are made from solid walnut wood. The pic Earl posted (the 2nd) shows this detail and it looks like solid wood.

    HP
    Hi HP, based on the shape of the contour of this molding, it does look like a solid piece to me.

  15. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    1,162
    Quote Originally Posted by boputnam
    Be careful about how you move these.

    Get a hand truck - one of those things UPS uses for delivery.

    Only put the hand truck in from the rear - there is a gap in the base for this.

    Only lay the cabinets on their back when ON the hand truck. You will not be able to raise them again, otherwise.

    Put a towel between the hand truck and the back of the cabinet.

    Be careful.
    Tell me about it..... These things are back killers when they're fully loaded.

    Actually, with the cone drivers removed, I can manoeuvre them around quite well with my hand truck under the side of the cabinets. The bases on mine are an "E" design with a piece in the middle running front to back. Makes things a little "tippy" if I stick the hand truck there.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Studio L Series
    By Titanium Dome in forum Lansing Product General Information
    Replies: 486
    Last Post: 10-06-2008, 03:31 PM
  2. Moderating Rules
    By Don McRitchie in forum Forum Feedback
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-21-2008, 04:28 PM
  3. Ian's (& Bo's) 4345 project
    By Ian Mackenzie in forum Lansing Product DIY Forum
    Replies: 176
    Last Post: 08-31-2007, 06:24 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •