XPL200 Rehab

[Titanium Dome]

First, the 095Ti gets a goose.

[Titanium Dome]

Then it's time for the 046Ti. Bend over, turn your head, and cough.

[Titanium Dome]

The 2214Hs showing their back sides. Roll over boys, and let's see the goods.

[Titanium Dome]

New foam exposed. The 2214H refoams @ $30 each were quite a bargain, and the job was good. Centering seems perfect, and the obvious sag that was there with the tired, old foams is long gone. They're spry and springy now.

[Steve Gonzales]

Good show Ti Dome. Is that Zebrawood?. Lovely grain to it. There is a lacquer based putty under the name FAMOWOOD, it is my choice for this type of application, as it is made from small particles of real wood. It dries fast and stains up very nice. Please try WATCO over this sanded and patched surface too. Before you apply the stain of any kind, use an artist's 0.05mm pen to draw/faux the grain in too. This particular grain is an easy match due to the grain pattern. I'd go a little darker tone than original too,l as this hides a multitude of sins better. Thank you for sharing the tips. As you know, I've done a few of these restorations myself and I know just how much extra effort it is to compose,picture and describe. Sometimes it took longer to post than to do the actual job!. I love this kind of stuff, there is something about restoring the original surface of a JBL that makes it all the more satisfying. I'll keep an eye on this thread as I'm sure that you will produce a fantastic result. Let me know if I can help you out with anything, I'd love the chance, Regards, Steve G

[northwood]

It's the most beautiful JBL to me

[Anthony L100]

Great stuff TiD, it's good to see this sort of "budget" job detailed so nicely, sometimes you don't want to spend $$$$. I can't wait to see them finished, and especially to hear how they sound .

[Titanium Dome]

Originally these cabinets had the dark black finish, but over the years, they faded badly. They appear never to have had any care whatsoever in 15 years.

Sunlight, smoke, dust, and dirt really took their toll. Most of the original black was gone, either bleached out or dried out. The original color is sill somewhat visible near the top where it got deeper into the open pores or at the bottom where the fading was less and the oils tended to migrate as the wood dried out.

While it looks a lot worse in person than in this photo, the saving grace is that the general condition of the wood is sound. It won't be perfect, but it'll look good enough. I'll use an ebony stain, slightly diluted as a wash. Some of the wood is so dry and faded, it might require a second application.

[Titanium Dome]

Using a special paper/cotton cloth and a latex glove, I hand rubbed the stain into the wood, with the grain of course. The wood, while dry, was a little resistant to the stain, as the cells were hard and closed after years of neglect. Eventually the stain and the hand rubbing opened them up.

Merely brushing the stain on would have left the stain on the surface and the result would be most of the stain would come back off when wiped down.

After sitting over night, the worst areas of the wood look like they need some additional attention. Overall, though, the effect is very close to the original, perhaps a bit more transparent.

Here's the stained cabinet next to its unstained mate. though it's hard to tell, it looks much better than its mate. After some serious drying time, then out comes the Watco. Then it'll shine.

(In the background, l-r: L7, L7, PS1400 in box, L250, Soundcraftsmen A200 and A400 amps, FAP T1 pre/pro, FA CSS220 sub w/ LE120H-1, SVA2100, L7, SVA2100, L250, L3, XPL160, and SVA1800 w/ orange cable on it.)

[JBLnsince1959]

Good work Dome...keep us posted......

by the way..,,wasn't one of the mid-ranges flatten?? got a pix of that?

[glen]

Really nice record of your work!
Thanks Dome!

[Wardsweb]

Very nicely done. I love taking neglected pieces like that and bringing them back to life. A real sense of accomplishment and instant gratification.

[Regis]

Great thread and pics Ti Dome, the bubbling veneer repair was really nifty. Though I was expecting the use of a hypodermic (maybe the consistency of the glue wouldn't allow it), the match stick applicator seemed to work well and your repairs came out beautifully!

Thanks for saving these rare and endangered JBL speakers!

[Titanium Dome]

Great thread and pics Ti Dome, the bubbling veneer repair was really nifty. Though I was expecting the use of a hypodermic (maybe the consistency of the glue wouldn't allow it), the match stick applicator seemed to work well and your repairs came out beautifully!

Thanks for saving these rare and endangered JBL speakers!

Working my way through grad school with a wife and three kids, I had to work for a decorating company that did lots of high end work in professional offices and "significant" historical restorations. I became a wallpapering, staining, faux finishing, lacquering, gilting whizz. For example, I learned how to paint correct shadows on Gothic columns to give them the right architectural appearance in cathedrals so they'd always look like the light was emanating from the Altar or from Christ's face.

Anyway, we'd often use syringes for wallpaper repair or for fabric restoration, but not usually for veneer. You're right, the adhesive would be too thick and too bulky. Plus, you don't want to get too much glue under the veneer; it'll create its own bubble, and somehow with a needle, you just want to keep pushing the plunger. Once that dries, you're screwed.

It is fun to do this. It's something I can do based on skills that I have, just like the guys that have the skills to do the electronics stuff can so happily work away while I stand around scratching my head.

Since I flubbed up by not cataloging the work I did on the L250s, this is a way to make up for that oversight.

[Titanium Dome]

If you want to find the original finish on an old, neglected piece of wood, look for an area that had some cover. In this case, the edge of the hole around the rear ports provides the clues.

Reducing the file size and resolution to fit here lessens the visual impact, but the finish underneath was really dark. In fact, the faded tops of the enclosures were a completely different color altogether. The lower portions of the side panels retained the most of the original black finish.

This picture really doesn't do it justice, but here it is anyway.