In an 8 cu.ft. the driver will reach 25Hz without the need for the 6dB boost (Thats what the simulation shows).
The Almighty subwoofer uses the 2226G unit in an 8 cu.ft. enclosure.
http://member.newsguy.com/~stigerik/almighty/index.html
In an 8 cu.ft. the driver will reach 25Hz without the need for the 6dB boost (Thats what the simulation shows).
The Almighty subwoofer uses the 2226G unit in an 8 cu.ft. enclosure.
http://member.newsguy.com/~stigerik/almighty/index.html
You need to look at the 2234H or 2235H in that same volume/tuning. Also pay attention to group delay and power handling.
The picture shows the sub simulation in a 210 litre box tuned to 28Hz with electronic EQ. The sub sensitivity is 88dB @ 30Hz and at 10W it reaches 98dB (more the enough ).
I don't think that group delay is that important for subs.
Fair enough... my extensive floundering in the area has suggested that it is huge.Originally Posted by silne3
Widget
Don't stop now! Post the 2234H and 2235H in the exact same application as well.Originally Posted by silne3Totally depends on what you are after. I definitely prefer the B2-type subs to QB5- and B6-type subs. BTW- EQ adds group delay as well so be aware of that. Some people couldn't care less about such droll subjects as group delay, they just plug their stuff in, proclaim it's the best thing since indoor plumbing and spam the Internet with their conclusions. I guess that could be fun. Whatever...Originally Posted by silne3
I checked the simulation of the 2235H in a 4.5 cu.ft. (grey line) with recommended EQ and the 2225H in the 8 cu.ft. (orenge) - the bump at 50Hz is from the 8 order low pass at 55Hz (I need this because my main speakers are Lowthers in backloaded horn and the rate of the horn is 48 db/octave).
It seems that the group delay of both enclosures are basically the same.
Both the Almighty Sub and your sim include boost, apparently.Originally Posted by silne3
Whatever. This isn't getting at your CLIO T/S measurement problem. I shouldn't have mentioned the design, probably, taking it OT....
Yes. I mean really, who gives a **** what you do with your drivers, hang them on the back porch as wind chimes for all I care.
Here is the enclosure I will use. It is the 8 cu.ft. from Kramer and Timbers.
Now I need to design the crossover. The amplifier will be the Hypex UcD180.
Sim with 8 cf (225L) and 5x5 wide and 10 inch long port.
Hole at full power is because of X max of dia.
Enclosure is sim with no loss.
What kit do I need in order to convert my 2225H to a 2235H?
I read a post saying something about a mass ring?
C8R2235.Originally Posted by silne3
Only for sale to authorized service centers though.
Johnny Haugen Sørgård
You could also go to an aftermarket kit. MWA for examp but also not available to general public so get done by a reconer.
Silne3
- If for some reason you decide to not go with the proper JBL recone kit / then make sure that your local reconer guaranties that the following TS parameters are met by his preferred kit .
(i) - No guarantee offered ? Then find a new reconer .
(ii) - Reconer doesn't know about TS Parameters ? Again, find a new reconer .
- For around a $200.00 investment ( any reconer who's convinced the aftermarket kits are just as good as JBLs' ) can buy ( from Parts Express ) the necessary hardware/software interface unit to test the woofers' TS parameters with the "aftermarket kit" installed .
- A parameters test, will go a LONG WAY to confirming that this aftermarket kit was worth your ( discounted ) investment .
Please don't go aftermarket.
There is no reason to use aftermarket parts when Factory repair kits are available....
Well...unless the reasons are to have no guarantee of performance when assembled properly and sound quality isn't an issue....then go ahead and save your $50...or less...and beat your head against the wall wondering why don't these sound good? .
When kits are no longer produced by the factory, then go with someone who is JBL Authorized and knows the product.
Edgewound...JBL Pro Authorized...since 1988
Upland Loudspeaker Service, Upland, CA
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