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Thread: Mini DIY

  1. #31
    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    Hmmmm. What to build?

    I'm thinkin' the 4430's just too cute to pass up....

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zilch
    Hmmmm. What to build?
    I've got a feeling we'll see all three... The mini-4435 crossover might be a trick, though - (no 16 ohm 115H-1's). And I think it'd be really kool to have a little screwdriver adjust in front for at least the HF, ala factory...

    John

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnaec
    The mini-4435 crossover might be a trick, though....
    Naw, Rob's gonna work that one all out.

    O.K., free grille cloth max is FOUR sq.ft. for anyone building Mini-4435, then....

  4. #34
    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    Crossovers done.

    Jus' need a coupla BOXES now....

    [Ah-HEM!]

    "Weed, whites, and wine,
    And I'll be willin'...."

    [That's one powerful little woofer. It shakes the bench, like WTPRO says....]
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  5. #35
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    Gonna use LE8T's for the Mini-4425's, probably, next project.

    Need some like 1/2" diameter slot-adjust knobs for the L-Pads.

    Could make 'em, I guess, but if somebody can find a SOURCE, it'd help everybody buildin' these....

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zilch
    Jus' need a coupla BOXES now....

    [Ah-HEM!]

    "Weed, whites, and wine,
    And I'll be willin'...."
    'Could use a little of that... Things got a little side-lined here, (out of state friend in town), and I ended up having to spend a bunch of time working on the office network today, ('have to go back again - ), and band rehearsal tomorrow. I *really* am planning on getting on to them - I want a pair myself!

    John

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnaec
    I *really* am planning on getting on to them - I want a pair myself!
    Since these crossovers seem to work fine, I'll order up parts for a second pair, then.

    I want to try a different LF inductor and layout using Solens and no bypass caps for comparison. Maybe set 'em up for passive biamp, too. Probably fit on the same 4" x 6" board.

    Also gonna mirror-image the next set.

    [Model "B". Heh.... ]

  8. #38
    Senior Member John W's Avatar
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    boxes almost done

    I am glueing up my boxes now, I just need a crossover. Pictures tomorrow.
    Zilch, what crossover are you using?
    I switched woofers to the 506G and am thinking of basically a 4206 crossover with an added lpad.

  9. #39
    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    Hi, John.

    These are N4406, an apparent good start. There's both a fixed and an adjustable L-Pad in the circuit, so they're easily tweaked to get the optimum balance. I looked at the comparable circuits, and this had the highest frequency.

    I can't conclude anything or take decent measurements until the drivers are in boxes, of course, but they're good enough in bench testing I'm gonna build up a second pair for Johnaec....

  10. #40
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    Zilch - I'm gonna' pick up some 1/2" birch on the way back from the office, (where I'm diligently working right now... ). The first sets I'm going to cut out are the mini 4425's - the drivers are much more accurately balanced size-wise than the 4430 combo. Is this OK with you? I plan on cutting out about 4 pair. I guess I could cut the mini-4430's out - it's just that I have to set everything up twice.

    I also still have to assemble a drill press, (it's been in the box for months...), but you've really got me psyched up for this. I can probably squeeze around the saw, but it's still gonna' take me a few days...

    John

  11. #41
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    Sure, John. Either one is fine. We can recut the baffles on one pair for LE8T later, if desired.

    The important thing is to get in some listening time with the requisite refreshing beverages.

    [If I had a house guest, I know who'd be assemblin' the drill press while I was at work.... ]

  12. #42
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    'Too late to get the wood tonight. I also realized we can use 5/8" - 3/4" thickness if desired, (but more expensive), since these won't have any free-standing front lip edges that would need to be thickness scaled.

    We have four choices - 1) MDF, (need to veneer), 2) baltic birch, (need to veneer), 3) solid pine, (could likely be nicely finished with a dark walnut stain) or 4) real solid walnut, (??). I'm not real concerned about rigidity, the cabinets are so small and can still be braced if desired.

    What do you think?

    John

  13. #43
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    I'd say go with MDF for boxes, and birch for the front baffles, for extra strength there. That seems to be standard construction.

    Whatever thickness is appropriate. We can rout out a little recess on the underside of the top for the 2404 magnet as required. JBL does that commonly....

  14. #44
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    'Gonna see what's up with the wood on my way to band rehearsal today. 'Also just ordered an adjustable hole cutter for the drill press today - 'makes cutting these smaller holes much easier than setting up a router jig. 'Should be here in a couple days. And what with daylight savings time, maybe I can get some stuff done after work now.

    'Any ideas on a good local source for some thin walnut veneer?

    John

  15. #45
    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnaec
    'Any ideas on a good local source for some thin walnut veneer?
    Sure. MacBeath here in Berkeley:

    http://www.macbeath.com/

    [Look out for the elephant, tho.... ]

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