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FWIW, that's not a "dust cap", its the actual dome of the tweeter. Possible you're looking at normal discoloration of of the so-called aluminum coating on the dome. OR you're looking at the dacron...

I would caution against this for a couple reasons. 1st, shipping an amp has its own set of risks. 2nd, its my feeling that a competent repair person would ask for the entire sub, not just the plate...

Those are aluminum, so wrinkles are usually permanent. But you can pull most dents out with a piece of tape.

Here you go:

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The ones I have, one from a PT800, and one from a S38, both say 335663-001, which is all I can tell you. In that picture, only the mounting strap is visible, the actual driver is underneath. You take...

I'd doubt there's much of any ferrous metal in the screws or washers. Anyways I think I still have a spare tweet lurking around here somewhere that came from an S38.

My recollection is that there are 2 versions, but the only difference is in the way they mount into the waveguide. With a little finesse they should be interchangeable. Maybe someone else will chime...

Nothing against them, they are fantastic. But a decent pair of smaller speakers with a good sub will do pretty well too. OTOH, how much are you going to spend buying and selling speakers looking for...

Given the prices being asked for decent quality pairs of 250ti, there's a good argument that your money might be better spent on something newer. Like any big-assed 4-way JBL, the 250 demands careful...

If anyone is looking for parts or complete speakers, here's a deal, (no affliation):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274824814053?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

2x PT800...

You won't find a better example of well balanced sound till you get to the models of the 90's in the "L series", or some of the 44xx pro models. The L112 can make your ears bleed and sound fantastic...

Just to keep you on your toes, they made quite a few variations of that crossover board and attachments over the years for the L96, L112 and L150A. Some plastic, some Masonite, some screws and some...

Sharpie?

Odds are good they only need minor repair, they used super cheap parts in sub amps. (still do). The trick is to find a place to do the work, I suggest finding someone local since shipping is loaded...

Not sure how that plastic box is attached to the amp, but they stick pretty good. There's a couple screws in the back that should come out.
The LP filter is located up by that connection plate,...

Tweeters are destroyed by heat, not power per se. Heat is generated by amp clipping and/or distorted audio sources. Of course the cheaper the tweeter the easier they are to overheat. Point being that...

This place has a brown that's a close match in color and texture:

https://www.acoustimac.com/acoustic-insulation-materials/acoustically-transparent-fabric

Only difference is that it mainly...

The first step is to admit you have a problem......;)

The Sanus steel series come in 22" and 18" heights.

I use these steel stands for heavy old JBLs. Rated for 35# but they will hold more. 22" high, that's pretty high for a heavy speaker. You can fill the tubes with sand if you like.

For what purpose? How high do you need them?

The only way you get my Array gear away from me is with something higher up the Synthesis food chain. Barring that I plan to die with them playing. Offer me something from the Summit Series and I'll...

The 904ti is pretty rare. They were only otherwise used in the tiK series and a few of the pro models from the Asian market, maybe another model or 2 from the EU market.
I have one that I bought off...

Assuming your speakers have the shorting bars on the crossover, remove them all and polish with steel wool, then re-tighten them snugly. Some folks have gone to replacing the bars with copper wire.

I've seen a couple variations in the L96/L112 line but not like this. The differences I've seen are in the grill frame material and crossover board materials.
I wonder if these are some...