How to take apart enclosure on Altec lansing VS2221

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Originally Posted by quickcurrent

I've been using an old Rat Shack TV tuner cleaner spray that I've had forever - works great.

Still waiting to hear from Altec Lansing !!!

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I've been using WD-40 for decades, to clean contacts there's nothing better.

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Originally Posted by JeffW

My computer speakers for about 15 years have been Altec Lansing ACS54. Some of the best little computer 4.1 speakers I've heard. The sub woofer is a gas!

Sorry you bought a shitty set, I love my Altec Lansing computer speakers!

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Were yours made by the former company perhaps?

4.1 speakers, I've never heard of, did you mean 5.1 (i.e. 6 speakers including the sub woofer)?

I recently picked up a set of 5.1 Logitechs for another computer that sound very nice and are highly rated. We'll see how those stand the test of time!

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Originally Posted by Eaulive

I've been using WD-40 for decades, to clean contacts there's nothing better.

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You need to be careful not to get WD40 on other electronics though, that could short things out because it stays greasy for a long time. I'd dread the idea of having used that on my speaker as I had to spray blindly, so I needed something that would dry out completely before putting them back in service. But, if used carefully and only where needed, I can see that doing a good job.

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Originally Posted by quickcurrent

You need to be careful not to get WD40 on other electronics though, that could short things out because it stays greasy for a long time. I'd dread the idea of having used that on my speaker as I had to spray blindly, so I needed something that would dry out completely before putting them back in service. But, if used carefully and only where needed, I can see that doing a good job.

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Not at all. WD40 is absolutely not conductive, it even has insulating properties.
In the good old days of spark plugs and rotor/distributor system, when you had bad wiring and your car didn't start in a damp morning because sparks were jumping all over the place, just spray WD40 all over and inside the distributor!
No more spark jump.

I sprayed WD 40 on HV sections of PWM power supplies, HV ballasts and igniters for HMI lamps, no problem.

In the Dominican Republic we spray it on all the PC boards to prevent corrosion from saline air, no problem.
Just don't spray it on belts, magnetic heads, VTR drums, laser pickup lenses or anything that's mechanical.

Some alcohol based sprays are very conductive until they dry out, you can spray WD40 on powered equipment without fear.

Just did some reading on that application for WD40.

The manufacturer does not list electronics as an application.

Other discussion forums discourage such use because of:

1) its flammability,
2) its propensity to leave behind a film that attracts dirt over time, and
3) its propensity to attack some plastics.

There may be others as well.

I use WD40 for a lot of things, but have always feared using it on electronics. That is not to say that it cannot be used successfully, I personally would prefer to use a different product on electronics, preferably one that uses some type of alcohol to evaporate thoroughly.

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Originally Posted by quickcurrent

Were yours made by the former company perhaps?

4.1 speakers, I've never heard of, did you mean 5.1 (i.e. 6 speakers including the sub woofer)?

I recently picked up a set of 5.1 Logitechs for another computer that sound very nice and are highly rated. We'll see how those stand the test of time!

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FL, FR, RL, RR, Sub.

4 speakers and a sub. I'm pretty sure it calls it 4.1 in the Soundblaster setup window, but I can look.

I don't know what company built them, they say "Altec Lansing" IIRC.

http://www.amazon.com/Altec-Lansing-.../dp/B00000JBJY

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Originally Posted by quickcurrent

Other discussion forums discourage such use because of:

1) its flammability,

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True, but I don't know too much electronics stuff that uses open flames.

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Originally Posted by quickcurrent

1) its propensity to leave behind a film that attracts dirt over time,

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Also true, but like I said, when you have the choice between cleaning a dirty PC board or scrapping the equipment after 6 months because the copper has dissapeared from the board because of corrosion, the choice is easy :D

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Originally Posted by quickcurrent

and
3) its propensity to attack some plastics.

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Never noticed this though, and I sprayed a lot of this stuff in my life.

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Originally Posted by JeffW

FL, FR, RL, RR, Sub.

4 speakers and a sub. I'm pretty sure it calls it 4.1 in the Soundblaster setup window, but I can look.

I don't know what company built them, they say "Altec Lansing" IIRC.

http://www.amazon.com/Altec-Lansing-.../dp/B00000JBJY

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Yes, that would be 4.1, four speakers (the 4) and a sub (the .1), I just never heard of that before, it's 5.1 without the center (or voice) speaker.

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Originally Posted by Eaulive

True, but I don't know too much electronics stuff that uses open flames.


Also true, but like I said, when you have the choice between cleaning a dirty PC board or scrapping the equipment after 6 months because the copper has dissapeared from the board because of corrosion, the choice is easy :D


Never noticed this though, and I sprayed a lot of this stuff in my life.

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Hey bud, I'm just posting what I read for the digestion and benefit of those reading this thread that may not have looked for the info.

I just prefer to play it safe with those products. Electronics can get pretty hot, why take chances, when there are safe products to use.

I've also heard of people using synthetic rustproofing (auto undercoating) materials to clean their auto electronics/electricals. I prefer not to follow suit, but it may work for some people. I have used WD40 on carburetors in the past as a water displacement (what the WD stands for) agent but that's different.

If it works for you, great.

Hi. I have the same trouble as you. After you get of those 4 screws from the bottom, you need to get of the protection of the speakers (i used a knife ) and underneath there is 6 more screws you have to take them off and it will come out very easily. Remove the plastic cover of the volume potentiometer. Use a spay for cleaning contacts (an ex. WD-40) on the volume and turn the button back and forward 5 minutes, then let it for 1 hour to evaporate. And plug it in to power and give it a shot.

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Originally Posted by jtara

Hi. I have the same trouble as you. After you get of those 4 screws from the bottom, you need to get of the protection of the speakers (i used a knife ) and underneath there is 6 more screws you have to take them off and it will come out very easily. Remove the plastic cover of the volume potentiometer. Use a spay for cleaning contacts (an ex. WD-40) on the volume and turn the button back and forward 5 minutes, then let it for 1 hour to evaporate. And plug it in to power and give it a shot.

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Hi JTARA, I did as you said.

1. Removed the front cover
2. Removed the other 6 screws
3. Removed the volume knob (with a flat screwdriver since it was hard)
4. Removed the glue (maybe not necessary)
5. Spraid wd-40 (maybe not good)
6. Cleaned some wd-40
7. Turned the knob several times in many assembly orientations.
8. Turn it on (did not wait), man, I had forgotten how good this speakers were! I had not used them for years







Attachment 74121Attachment 74122

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Originally Posted by prada

Hi JTARA, I did as you said.

1. Removed the front cover
2. Removed the other 6 screws
3. Removed the volume knob (with a flat screwdriver since it was hard)
4. Removed the glue (maybe not necessary)
5. Spraid wd-40 (maybe not good)
6. Cleaned some wd-40
7. Turned the knob several times in many assembly orientations.
8. Turn it on (did not wait), man, I had forgotten how good this speakers were! I had not used them for years


Attachment 74121Attachment 74122

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I have the same speakers with the same problem. I found the screws on the bottom and removed them. I am not able to remove the front grill without damaging it. How di you do it? Thanks in advance.

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Originally Posted by quickcurrent

OK, Caig Deoxit is the stuff to use, thanks.

I finally heard from Altec Lansing. Sandy informed me that, and I quote:

"the speakers are ultrasonically sealed during manufacturing once you open it you take a chance in damaging the drivers in side and compromising the sound quality".

Not only does this company produce a lousy product, they want you to throw them away when the volume control acts up (in my case months after buying them, when the problem started!)

My lesson from this and advice to anyone reading this is, stay away from Altec Lansing computer speakers. If the volume control cannot be maintained, Altec Lansing = JUNK.

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You received bad info. It isn't sealed. My speaker had no glue or sealing. Carefully pry off the front metal grill. Remove two upper Philips screws. You must also remove the front four Philips screws surrounding the speaker driver, which will release the back speaker cover. Slide off (toward the rear) the L shaped stand and then easily pull off the back cover. From the back, everything including the Volume Control is exposed with a small hole in the side of the VC. Spray DeoxiT D5 in the control's hole and twist the knob back and forth to clean. Put it back together and it's fixed! The Altec Lansing VS2221 are excellent computer speakers and don't look gaudy like most other brands.