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Does anyone have a layout of the 3143 crossover used in the 4343 monitor?
I drew one up, showing the terminal strips and the wires that go to them that I used for adding my bypass caps. If you have a drawing of these, please get back to me and I can give you my specific questions.
Thanks,
Tom
Hello Tom
Do you mean the schematic??
http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Net...%20Network.pdf
Rob:)
Thanks Rob, but no.
I was looking for a layout drawing, showing the terminal strips and what wires go where.
Tom
Come on guys, am I the only one who's drawn a layout of the 4343 crossover?
How did you guys know where to put your bypass caps and what values they should be? I made up my drawing showing the large caps imbedded in the wax, terminal strips showing all resistors, and with all the color coding.
Am I really the only one who's this fanatical?
Tom
:hmm:Could be
Rob:)
"Come on guys, am I the only one who's drawn a layout of the 4343 crossover?"
I think somebody at JBL also did a functional drawing for manufacturing purposes.
"How did you guys know where to put your bypass caps and what values they should be?"
Well, every stock cap gets bypassed with a 0.01 uF polypropylene and a 0.005 uF polystyrene so it's no real mystery. You can use whatever values you feel like. JBL used 0.005 uF for the polystyrene so it was easy to differentiate from the polypropylene. You can make them both 0.01 uF if you want.
"I made up my drawing showing the large caps imbedded in the wax, terminal strips showing all resistors, and with all the color coding."
Why? Just snap a picture or two of the stock filter then put it in a box for safe keeping and build a new filter set using better components separated out.
Try to build your new filters so they are all separate from each other. Try to mount all the components for the HF and UHF on an expanded L-Pad board so you aren't running wires out and back to any "far off" boards. For instance, my 4430's have the LF filter mounted on the input board and the HF filter mounted directly on the L-Pad board right near the HF. No running wires back and forth between L-Pads and network boards or bi-amp switches.
Giskard, Thanks for the reply.
Maybe, one day, I'll pull out all the caps and inductors, clean out the wax, and replace all this with modern equivilants. I'd use copper foil air core inductors, high performance caps, and change all the board-mounted componants with hi-tech stuff, ...but for now I simply want to add high-quality bypass caps and maybe change the assignment of the embedded 4uf. I was wondering if anyone else had gotten into these crossovers and traced where everything goes. I did it before I did anything to these crossovers and have found the drawing very valuable. I added Dayton bypass caps to almost everything.
Now I want to up-grade the Daytons and, while I was reviewing my layout drawing, I noticed that I might have connected a .1 bypass cap to the wrong terminal, which also has a light blue lead. I think I figured it out, but wanted to confirm with someone else my findings.
P.S. The speakers sound GREAT the way they are, but I think I can improve them even more!
Tom
"cautiously seeking sonic perfection"
I was considering the bypass route. What is the best one out there and where can i score them. I would like to tap in to the opinions of those that have been there allready and save alot of feeling around in the dark.:confused:
Hovlands are very nice and laid back, especially effective on JBL compression drivers. Ian can tell you about them first hand. Hovland bypass caps can be a nice way to step up without going the whole capacitor exchange route. There should be no need to bypass main capacitors such as Hovlands. There should also be no need to charge couple capacitors such as Hovlands.Quote:
Originally posted by John
I was considering the bypass route. What is the best one out there and where can i score them. I would like to tap in to the opinions of those that have been there allready and save alot of feeling around in the dark.:confused:
In general you want to use film and foil but a few metallized dielectrics aren't bad at all such as the Dynamicaps. RelCaps are very nice. Dayton caps (Bennic) have an "edge", as do Solen caps, but they can definitely "wake up" old metalized mylars and electrolytics. SonicCaps are very nice as are AudioCaps. If you want a quick and excellent solution get the AudioCap bypass caps from PE.
Generally polystyrene yields smoothness and three-dimensionality while polypropylene yields excellent high frequency response and transient response.
Thanks I am running a lot of jbl compression drivers and think i will try the hovlands. Where is a good place to get those??? Also i have a origanel pair of Altec 19,s any advice on tweaking those.???:confused:
I picked up Hovlands from Madisound.
I have no experience at all with the Altec 19.
I try to rebuild my crossover too :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Loizeaux
Do you have pict of your work ?? modification schematic ??
thanks
Jean