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I need to restore the outside face and edges of my LE14H-1's. Is there a known paint that matches the original? From what I can tell its like a satin black type paint. I would like to get something that won't fill in the brushed aluminum texture that shows through the paint slightly..i.e..keep them looking as original as possible.
A large manufacturer like JBL doesn’t use DIY store products, they use industrial coatings so getting the “exact” product is unlikely. That said, there are numerous products available that you can get that can closely approximate them.
From your description, I am confused at your request. Can you post a photo and point to the specific areas you are referring to?
Widget
Yeah I understand I wont get exactly the same thing JBL used...just wondering if anyone has found a very good substitute. This is where I'm talking about..basically the area you see when the woofer is mounted.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Widget
Attachment 85610
OK, I got it. You won’t find this paint at Home Depot etc. but Grainger has it and it is exactly what you want.
https://m.grainger.com/mobile/produc...aint-in-54TG81
I would suggest you practice getting a good even coat on a scrap of metal or smooth plastic. You need to coat the entire surface in one application so that there are no lap marks, and you don’t want to apply the paint too heavily. With practice you can get a factory finish with this paint. If you screw it up the first time, you can wash the paint off with acetone.
Widget
That sounds right..I knew it wasn't flat and definitely not gloss..so satin was all I could think of. Semi-flat makes sense. Yes I always practice on something to get used to the way the spray pattern lays.
Thank you for your help Mr. Widget...I appreciate it.
Try to get this exact paint.
It will give you perfect results when applied correctly and it is pretty forgiving. Other formulations are not this good. They will load up the surface, dry too slowly, have an uneven sheen... most aerosol spray paints are disappointing, this one is excellent.
It is the same formula that Krylon used to sell at your corner hardware store but it is no longer sold directly to consumers due to environmental concerns. It is now only sold as an industrial product. I guess the idea is that they don't want every craft project in America blowing acrylic lacquer into the atmosphere. Luckily it is still available if you know where to look.
Good luck!
Widget
I found it on Amazon too..has the same Part Number K01613A07 as the Grainger's link you gave me.
https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-Spray-...ustrial&sr=1-1
I have a little Lazy Susan I use for working on these so I'm hoping that will help get an even coverage on them. I'll let you know the results...and thanks again.
Take a lot of care masking the moving bits- you don't want solvents anywhere near the cone or surround or spider or former. Even after the paint dries, give it a few more hours to outgas before removing protection from the moving assembly.
the drivers with black painted frames, painted metal receiver and amp tops too, I just give a couple of good coats of Johnson's paste wax and buff them out when things get that motley look to them
as long as there's no major or multiple gouges this has worked well for me
aka the five foot rule
I use India ink on minor scuffs and blems, before waxing as it can be blended to invisibility with a finger and is permanent once dry, small flaws
I'll only paint them if they're really thrashed
best of luck whatever you do
Thanks for the tips badman and Michael Chavez.
I finally got around to painting this driver. The paint Mr. Widget recommended is spot on..thank you for that. Freshly done it doesn't look exactly as "flat" as it did but I think years of cleaning and cabinet oiling/treatments or even sun has given them a weathered patina. As you can see the brushed texture still came through with 4 coats of paint. The last coat I thought I messed up when I looked at it wet and the texture was almost gone...but when the paint dried it turned out great. I have a half a can of paint left for the other driver when I get to that one. The original paint was tough stuff...took 3 coats of citrus paint remover..scraping..then stiff wire wheel to get it off.
I haven't glued the surround in yet but this is how they turned out....
Attachment 85745
Attachment 85743
Attachment 85744
very nice
did you go with amazon?
turned out very well
looks good
Thank you...and yes I went with Amazon.
how many days has it been since you shot the frames?Quote:
Originally Posted by LHorn
any tack or does it feel dry dry?
what is the suggested full cure time?
I ask all this as I like what I can see from internet photos very much, enough so that I may try this on my next amp cover
dumb shits and their stacking
oh, and would you mind sending me the specific seller's link that you used or was it the same as the one you posted in the thread
I just want to be 100% on the "sold by fulfilled" by part
been burned by that before on amazon when there are multiple sellers of the same item
nightmare story with a wide spread faucet
thanks again
Michael
I painted it on Jan 20th...and it is very quick drying..like 10 minutes. On my test piece of aluminum I have to really try hard to scrape it with a fingernail. I dont think it is as hard as the original so like you said only do it in a worst case situation. The original paint probably has hardener additives in it or may even be a baked on epoxy type paint...dunno...I'm not a paint expert. Also..I can take a 91% alcohol swab to the original paint and nothing happens but slight dulling...on this paint it will turn the swab black..so be careful with any solvents. As long as it doesn't get banged around it should be good to go...and at least makes a good touch up paint.
Yes the link I posted is where I got it. It shipped from the Amazon warehouse in Carlisle, Pa where most of my stuff from them ships from. Just verify that the manufacturer's part number is the same. And yes I know what you mean about that third party crap.
Good luck Michael.
thank you for thatQuote:
Originally Posted by LHorn
I was looking for actual cure (dry) time as suggested versus what your experience has been so far
your finger nail anecdote tells me basically what I was looking for - thanks
I'm of a mind that unless ultraviolet light or a hardener is involved no coating is really fully cured until about a year has passed
as far as alcohol - that is the basis for most acrylic thinners and vehicles so no surprises there (and that your swab comes up black)
I've use various acrylics over the years and they are similar to PVA glues - there are literally 100s of formulations
thanks again and enjoy your speakers