JBL L96: Tweeter LPad/trim-knob static.

The tweeter cuts in and out (mainly out) when the trim knob is turned, and spontaneously when playing. I'll try some contact cleaner on the shaft.

Assuming that does NOT do the trick (after all the thing is almost 25 years old) is it better to replace the LPad with a new product? Any good matches? Any tips for whether to access it by removing the rear or front baffle.

I might even like to bypass the controls and add fixed 2-resistor LPads to tweeter and midrange. Maybe -1dB tweeter and +1dB midrange. Any values that have worked?

Thanks. BTW, this is quite some speaker. I'm not in love with the treble, and the midrange is a touch laid back, but the strength and warmth of the bass is outstanding. And it likes to be turned up.

After a little sleuthing, I have a line on a replacement LPad, and I've found some info on removal.

For the L96, do you have to even remove the foilcal from the front, or do you have to unscrew the LPad from behind? Or both? I can feel little nuts and bolts on the inside of the front baffle And if so, should I remove the rear baffle?

///Not good at the building-a-ship-in-a-bottle stuff.

Hi BenB

Over the years, I have tried removing the back cover off of the L-Pads and cleaning the wire windings with a pencil eraser. And this trick does work for about a little while, for maybe a year or two. But, it’s just as easy to replace the L-Pads altogether.

www.PartsExpress.com is a good source for replacement L-Pads.

Baron030 :)

"I have tried removing the back cover off of the L-Pads and cleaning the wire windings with a pencil eraser. And this trick does work for about a little while, for maybe a year or two. But, it’s just as easy to replace the L-Pads altogether."

Thanks. I'll probably do this. So, the LPads are removed from the back? Any need to take off the foil decal? And the new ones fit, even with the bolt and nut system?

Hi BenB

This is assuming that the L-Pads in the L96 are identical to what are in my old N2400 crossovers. The L-Pads should have a black plastic housing that is about 1.5" in diameter. And they will have metal cap attached to its back. This metal cap is only pressed on. So, there are no screws holding it in place and no need to remove any decals off of the back.
Using any old knife, you start by prying the blade down between the plastic housing and the metal cap. And then with a twisting motion, the metal cap will start to slide apart. Once, the cap starts to slide a bit, switch to a straight blade screw driver for more leverage.
Once the wire winding are cleaned, just press the metal cover back on again and you're good to go.
But, a more permanent solution is to replace the L-Pads. If the L-Pads are about a 1.5” in diameter, then they most likely carry a 15 watt rating. I also would recommend using an ohm meter to determine the impedance before ordering any parts. It’s most likely to be 8 ohms, but I would check it just to make sure.

Baron030 :)

"This is assuming that the L-Pads in the L96 are identical to what are in my old N2400 crossovers..."

I had to take off the label on the front to undo the screws that hold the LPad board. I see that they are pretty easily replaceable. I have a feeling only the 15W version from PE will fit...
Anyway, I dosed them with some contact cleaner and turned the knobs about a gazillion times and the static and cutting-out is gone...for now, anyway. Thanks. Next: Refoaming...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BenB

Anyway, I dosed them with some contact cleaner and turned the knobs about a gazillion times and the static and cutting-out is gone...for now, anyway. Thanks. Next: Refoaming...

---

Contact cleaner is usually all it takes... great speakers, do a good job on the refoam.:)

Widget

Not all sprays are equal. The one from Caig that used to be called Cramlin, I think it's DeOxit D5 or something like that. When I can get to them and the environment doesn't make dry more desirable, I spray new contacts with it. It brings the dead back from the grave.