Going to pick up a couple of 2245s tomorrow. Just curious if there are any specific markings I should be looking for to confirm an actual JBL cone, and not aftermarket. Would seeing an application of aquaplas be sufficient proof?
Thanks.
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Going to pick up a couple of 2245s tomorrow. Just curious if there are any specific markings I should be looking for to confirm an actual JBL cone, and not aftermarket. Would seeing an application of aquaplas be sufficient proof?
Thanks.
Yes ( about the aquaplas ).Quote:
Originally Posted by emilime75
It'll be either white ( indicating an ancient cone ) or black ( in either case the aquaplas is applied only to the back-side of the cone ).
:)
Thank you, Earl.
You're Welcome!
A couple of other things to look out for.
By now, all the foam filters within 2245H's should be crumbling ( assuming they haven'y been replaced by a sharp-eyed reconer who's aware of the problem ).
To see if the filter remnants still exist inside the dust-cap area ( of your prospects ) lay the driver face down and shine a bright flashlight through the back-vent.
One should see something like the following ( though in your case the rear foil-cal filter will still be in place > hindering your view );
Attachment 83589
Here's a marking on this recone that clearly identifies the cone-kit as coming from JBL Pro.
Attachment 83587
Here's the white grease-pencil writing that exists on all bona-fide JBL recone kits.
Attachment 83588
The loose foam inside the dustcap area will eventually migrate it's way into the gap and then gum up the works ( causing a burnt voice-coil + then necessitating a recone ).
Therefore it needs to come out.
If the woofers you are buying have that foam loose inside the cap then I recommend negotiating a somewhat lower price ( since you or your tech are going to go through the hassle of removing it without damaging the dustcap ).
I'm thinking a small PC keyboard attachement for a vacuum ( with a 1/4" noozle should do the trick in my case ) .
I'll let you know if I crumple the dustcap ( or not ).
:)
PS; The back foil-cal is easily removable with a 1 1/2" wide putty knife, a paint stripper heat gun and 5 minutes of patience ).
Thank you for all of the info. Just saw your second reply, but I've already bought them. The story goes...they were advertised as working, but needing new foam. When I got there they were loaded in some home made scoops. We pulled them from the cabinets and found one with a seized voice coil, the second one I'm not sure. It moves freely, but with no foam it's difficult to move the cone evenly to prevent the coil from rubbing in the gap, it sometimes does, sometimes does not. It quickly became pretty clear the seller knew nothing about speakers, but a real nice guy. We chatted for over an hour and in the end he told me to "just take them". I didn't feel right about that, in the end I gave him 20 bucks for the pair. These particular models are the older version with the white Aquaplas on both. I've already emailed Edgewound on his site to see what my options are. Hoping he's still around and his 2245 kits are still available. feeBay says out of stock.
You need to keep the cones. New VCs can be installed.Quote:
Originally Posted by emilime75
Quote:
Originally Posted by emilime75
Good Story! ( price was sure right ;) )
Hopefully you can buy a pair of Edgewounds custom-built recone kits ( you'll really be ahead to the races that way ).
I agree with gasfan, save the current cones as well as you can ( they should be worth something on the open market > being stock JBL ).
MEK applied around the edge of the spider area should soften the glue joint ( allowing a putty knife to lightly separate spider from frame ).
Edgewound can advise on the best solvent I imagine. Whatever it is; use only in a well ventilated place ( like outside ).
:)
PS; Remember to deal with the crumbling internal foam filter ( before reconing )!