In any recording the phase "is what it is", look at an orchestra all the instruments playing there is now way to control the phase. The phase only becomes a problem on playback. John
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Well, I've had the crossovers reworked into the equivalent of L100T3's (thanks Duanage for the great work!). I finally had a chance to sit down and listen, and at first, I liked what I heard. Norah Jone's vocals really sound sweet and pronounced. The highs no longer "whistle", and the low end is much less muddied.
Then I put in Nickleback's latest, sat down and turned it up-Wow, the mods moved everything right in my face. Very forward, extremely sharp in the midrange. Still, the bass leaves a bit to be desired. I'm going to live with them a while, and we'll see.
I love my t3's. I like them so much that I've bought spare mids and tweeters (thanks again Heather:)) for them just in case. I'm still keeping an eye out for a spare set of 2214H-1.Quote:
Still, the bass leaves a bit to be desired. I'm going to live with them a while, and we'll see.
If the bass would go a tad lower that would be the icing on the cake but overall I've been very happy with these speakers since the first day I wired them up to an amplifier.
My room leaves much to be desired acoustically due to a sloped ceiling on one side. It also has hardwood floors and two windows. They did sound better at my last residence where the room was a perfect rectangle with 8 ft ceiling and wall to wall carpet.
I believe the L100t3 is rated at 400 watts max. So if your amp does'nt have enough headroom, they just are'nt going to sing and I've experienced just that with my own pair.
I've found that the t3's like a bit of power to be at their best. First off, I run all solid state. I've used two other smaller amps but when I run them off my PL400 series 2 (210wpc) the base really tightens up. I recently acquired a McIntosh MC 2300 (conservatively rated @ 300wpc) in order to provide them with even more power and hopefully they be even better although I fear that the size and shape of my room will always be the negative factor. Though this may sound a bit far-fetched, it is my opinion that these speakers would sound their best in a very large room with a high ceiling 10' or higher, running off an amp capable of at least 500 wpc.
I am using a Jolida tube/SS integrated with 100 wpc. I was just thinking the same thing about headroom. Perhaps I'll go all SS, something along the lines of your 2300.......
My room is not the best either-hardwood floors, leather furniture. In the mean time I've got some 4412's to put together. They're almost ready. o we'll see what happens with them.
Be careful with loads of amp power. I've dropped the coils of the woofers into the back of the magnet structure with tracks from the first Fourplay CD.
Did you do any bracing to the L-100T cabinet? I found it was very different with a simple 1X3 tied from the front panel to the back, placed right between the woofer and mid. Adding a side to side brace didn't do as much after that, but it did help. The biggest change was the port tube swap-out, losing the cardboard for a flared PVC version.
If you really want to lower the bass flab a tube that's flared on both ends is the way to go. I even added an interior baffle on the inside flare, which can yield a few points less distortion.
Not worked with the L100T but agreed- most vents are a "worst case" scenario, with straight tubes and no edge termination. There are many tricks to improve the performance of vents, using noncircular shapes, flared profiles, and differing vent lengths in the case of multi-vented cabs, all can help (within reason, you can use multiple lengths and take the average to approximate multiples of the single length, which lowers vent coloration). Open cell foam (very open, as in drainage gutter foam or aquarium filter foam) within the vent can also dampen some of the high Q resonances that can happen in and around vents.
Definitely a high reward to be had in taking some of the easy tricks with vents.
Could you elaborate a bit on exactly what you mean? Are you just talking about typical woofer over-excursion or something worse?
My L100T's and their 2214H woofers seem pretty solid in that regard. I had them powered by two of my Yamaha P2201 amps bridged for ~600-700wpc at one point, cranking some Pendulum, and they did not disappoint. I have taken the 128H woofers in my other speakers beyond their limits before though, and it sounds like someone hitting a paper-plate with a wrist-rocket slingshot as the voice coil impacts the pole piece. Is this similar to what you were referring to?