Crossover layout L250

Is there a "best practice" for crossover layout?

I have finally got the parts for my l250 to 250Ti biased crossovers:bouncy:
These are going to be external and my thought is to hook them to the cab via speak-on connectors. My other thought is to make them quad amp-able:blink: is that a word?

My other wish is to remove the bus bars and use switches but this may prove to be more difficult than meets the eye. I have looked for rotary 3pole 2 layer non-shorting switches but current ratings for these are in the <1 amp range. Also the switch may prove to degragate the sound so just throwing that out there.:blah:

Also on the 48 uf caps I was only able to get 50uf this makes a difference of 1uf in midbass section. Will this be a big problem? IIRC there was some kind of "hole" if you will in the origanal L250 midbass section on overall sound. I hope this will not agravate the situation.:dont-know

I am using Daton polypros 5% but after measuring these (staticly) they are all within .01%

Any help with this build will be greatly appreciated!!

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Originally Posted by JuniorJBL

Is there a "best practice" for crossover layout?

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For layout of crossover, place inductors so two don't interact with each other. Read this link and follow the general guide in the diagram at the bottom of the page. Resistors and caps can go just about anywhere you can fit them.

http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/coils_files/coils_9.gif

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JuniorJBL

Also on the 48 uf caps I was only able to get 50uf this makes a difference of 1uf in midbass section. Will this be a big problem? IIRC there was some kind of "hole" if you will in the origanal L250 midbass section on overall sound. I hope this will not agravate the situation.:dont-know

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I don't think using 50 µF instead of 48 µF will be a problem. Usually ±10% variation does not make an audible difference. For 50 µF, anything from 45 to 55 µF is OK.

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Originally Posted by JuniorJBL

I am using Daton polypros 5% but after measuring these (staticly) they are all within .01%

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Those are good caps. Any that I have used have also been very close to their printed value.

Thank you Swerd!!:)

I will post tomorrow a pic of my intended layout.:bouncy:

Edit: That is a great site. Thanks for the link!!:applaud:

Well much later than tomorrow here I am again. A pic of the proposed layout. Anything jump out as bad?

The best position

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...5&postcount=24

To make a network
Stéphane

I changed it up a bit and put the coils down the outsides, big caps down the center. don't have a pic right now but will later.:)

Are you doing seperate boards?? If you are I would seperate the high value, high current woofer inductors and get them away from the rest of the group. Just make a seperate LF board. Other that that follow the sheet for the Inductors and make sure it's going to fit into any acess ports if it's going inside. When I did my Jubilee crossovers I used PCB's and stacked them with standoffs.

Rob:)

Everything is at least 20cm apart except the two 2mh coils and they are at angles from each other. I really want these outside in their own cab's finished the same as my 250's.

In the pic the coils are all along one side so I have put the caps down the center and all the coils down each side of the board.

Edit: here is a pic of the revised layout.

Boards are drilled, going to be mirror imaged. Time for paint.

I not much of a person for posting, but I will show you how I divided up the cc'd xover for a L250>250Ti conversion I did last year.

The LF parts and the 40uf & 2mH input part of the MF section are mounted to a fiberglass board on the outside of the cabs over the top of the attenutation straps. I could have run the LF speaker wires through the tuning port, but I went ahead and drilled holes and used shrink-wrap over the wires so they would be tight. They are the 2 green and 1 yellow wires right next to the tuning port.

Also mounted the 9v battery on the outside to a push-terminal strip which itself is mounted to the back of the xover board just so the terminals on the inside miss things on the other side of the board. I tried to minimize wires having to go through the cab back (3).

I gave up trying to use the stock circuit board for adding the cc caps. It would have been too messy. So, I made a slightly larger fiber board and it worked out well, especially with getting rid of those monster dual 82uf caps. They resemble grenades or really big firecrackers.

It was fun to do and very time-consuming, but the results were worth it.