Where did the bass go? Get a better fishfinder.
It sounds like you either just got these or are running them in a new room for the first time. No bass at all?... Have you checked your phasing (for the pair; and each driver in cab)? We may have no magic bullet solutions because each room and system combination is different. Things to try and what to listen for are what we can offer if you do not have access to sophisticated equipment such as a RealTime Analyzer (RTA). A pro audio shop will rent you a mic & RTA by the day for not too much denaro. Burst test computer sig analysis is needed to collect reflection pattern data. Even then you need to know what to look out for.
It helps me to think as if you are inside a speaker cabinet. The same rules of design apply as far as AVOIDING-- parallel walls without one being absorbtive, geometry ratios which naturally resonate, and unbraced panels which buzz.
I frequently see 2D top view plans for a room and seldom see elevation side views supplied. Even if the ceiling is low and flat (not ideal), the vertical placement of speakers can have as much effect as the horizontal position and orientation. The type of flooring has a major effect on bass resonant response. Raising the speakers and the type of mounting (flat base, rubber iso feet, spikes, stand construction, etc.) has much influence in the upper bass down to the mid bass spectrum. Damping isolation has more effect the lower the speaker's bass response goes (we want to move sound through the air, not the floor).
A carpeted surface is generally preferable to wood flooring. Ground floor is generally preferable to upper floors due to there being less of a flexible span to vibrate at bass frequencies and undertones. The general idea is to avoid floor resonance reinforcement near the speaker's natural boomy points and find a floor/room resonance favorable to the room's inherent acoustic nature.
Placement of absorbtive and reflective furmishings in depth and height is a final room tuning measure (often functional and decorative considerations overrule, here). There are acoustic tuning materials that are available to tune out corner resonance/reflection patterns, main/rear wall reflection damping, side wall boundary layer effects, protrusions (like you have) and openings.
A good site with specific acoustic room tuning advice is http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/tweaking_e.html. Start with the "WASP" article for alternatives to initial setups. Then I could not find the reference or article to the room tuning products when I just looked, but believe it is in there somewhere. And as long as you are moving speakers around like a husband in a new house to find that right spot for the couch, this may help http://www.tnt-audio.com/accessories/glisdome_e.html.
Their other articles are helpful-- especially the speaker tuning section. Few people realize crossover capacitors age over time. This is especially important when dealing with vintage speakers as much as this forum's members do. The other speaker tweaks in this article are about improving electronic construction and mechanical enhancements for clarity or specific tonal changes desired.
An automatic digital room solution, sure to spark audiophile controversy, is http://www.tnt-audio.com/ampli/sigtech.html. Some of the site's authors have apparent axes to grind, but who doesn't? WTTW; they may engage in lengthy debates when challenged. They are pleasant and not industry-biased folks.
There are software programs available for room acoustic modeling out there. I know Bose used to have a free or low cost program for recreational usage, though I have not tried it. I heard it was mostly useful for dispersion and reverberation modeling so it would tend to make the Bose merry-go-round design look attractive on screen. There are much more sophisticated modeling programs geared toward pro audio at much higher prices. A cool web page of software optimized for array driver placement is http://www.meyersound.com/support/pa...ion/index.htm. Perhaps other forum members can recommend something more appropriate for you-- as in between a toy and Madison Square Gardens modeling software that is effective for certain parameters.
BTW, hanging speakers a little down and out from a 4:12 (120 degrees, combined) gabled ceiling/wall top plate produces exceptional projection and stereo field patterns. The drywall over stick framing bandshell effect from my former house ceiling was better than any floor or wall positions. Not for the mechanically-challenged or decorator-sensitive, though. Make sure you use sizeable eye screws screwed into the ceiling joists or rafters and engineer grippage for side slippage. My red nylon (rated 600 lb. each) suspenders did hold them up through a 7.1 earthquake like nothing happened!
Martin W.
Wizard Labs
Restless days and sleepless nights
I think your wife may be wanting your full attention for a while.
I have the benefit of running my sweep generator through the ranges to detect resonant & antiresonant points-- as opposed to the fancy analyzers more suitable for roughing in a concert EQ (w/o dealing with reflections and cancellations). A good test CD will provide a swept signal or enough tones to do much the same. Just don't run the tones too loud-- especially on the low end. Continuous tones are tough on speakers.
Best wishes with the young one and good luck.
Martin W.