M2 Driver Plate Modification
Since I started this project I wanted to try one of the large format drivers on my DIY M2. This requires a modification to the mounting plate so it would accept countersunk screws. I'm not a machinist but I wanted to document what I used just in the event someone else wants to do the same.
I started off by using a 90 degree, 1/2" counter sink bit attached to a cordless drill (In my case the drill was attached to a Flex Arm, but a standard drill will work). Use of aluminum cutting fluid is needed. I started off by adding couple of drops and adding more when necessary. When cutting the countersink the bit should moving slow and putting downward force on drill to put pressure on the bit is necessary. The plate was held down by a drill press vise.
I had a machinist buddy guide me with the above process. He also told me the drill press wasn't the best choice here because if you are not centered your countersink would be less than perfect.
I was able to pick up 2450SL's so the driver mounting holes didn't need attention. Bolts used were M6x1.0 35mm from Fastenal
Hope this helps,
Scott
Crown dci 4300N vs iTech 5000hd
Yesterday I had the pleasure on meeting up with fellow Wisconsin member Aaron and he was kind enough to bring his Crown iTech 5000hd's. Given it was a weekday we weren't able to perform a single speaker mono test as recommended by Floyd Toole. Instead we did it old school and played a few songs, switched amplifiers, and then replayed the same set of songs after the amp switch. I must admit since these beauties were here in my listening room for a limited time only I requested to hear the 5000hd more. Plus I was very familiar with the dci already. With the exception of the power potential of the 5000hd, I didn't hear any difference between the two and feel the dci is an economical choice for home listening. Both delivered clean sound and plenty of power needed for me.
The dci used a EC-V for a volume control and the 5000hd was controlled by a Yamaha integrated amp.
Thanks,
Scott