J to H? Is 2225J to 2235H a non starter? or a goer?

Printable View

05-13-2020, 03:19 PM
Double Dave

J to H? Is 2225J to 2235H a non starter? or a goer?

Hey all - first post here.

I'm slowly gathering parts to build some 4355's and have collected a bunch of goodies so far, and it's obviously getting expensive. One of the hurdles is getting hold of some 2235H's with original voicecoils. 2235H's come up but with either rotten/torn foam or they've been re-coned with unknown aftermarket VC's - or they've been thrashed and are half dead anyway - so I'd like to re-cone whatever I find with some original kits anyway with proper JBL edge-wound VC's, which are about $250 a pop. With second hand questionable 2235H's going for around $300-$350 a go, that's a lot when you factor in all 4 + recone kits.

Anyway - I've seen on here that the 2235 and 2225 are the same basket and motor, with the only difference being the mass ring and cones which all come in the JBL kits. I found some decent looking 2225J's for $300 for 4 - so figured I can save myself a few bucks. My question is - I figure the only difference between the H and J would be the voicecoil impedance, and the magnet strength/flux and gapping etc would be identical throughout the line - but am I right on that? I'm a purist to a point - like I can get over the sticker on the back of the motors being wrong, but I want these to be absolutely technically correct 2235H's.

Thanks in advance.
05-13-2020, 05:15 PM
1audiohack

Hello Dave;

If you install genuine JBL C8R2235 cone kits in any 2225H or J basket, they will be 100% 2235H’s. Minus the ID tag.

Welcome to Lansing Heritage!

Please continue to share your project with us.

Barry.
05-14-2020, 01:34 AM
Double Dave

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1audiohack

Hello Dave;

If you install genuine JBL C8R2235 cone kits in any 2225H or J basket, they will be 100% 2235H’s. Minus the ID tag.

Welcome to Lansing Heritage!

Please continue to share your project with us.

Barry.

Thanks Barry! Just the info I needed. I've messaged the guy - hopefully he still has them. Project is using all original components and I'm going 1" birch ply cabinets with Walnut veneer etc, but haven't decided if I'm going 100% original spec cabinets or trying something a bit left-field to annoy everyone (separate bass cabinet and mid/tops boxes on spikes). Even entertaining folded horn designs (pending 'real world' fletcher munson style testing with mock up boxes to see if it's an enhancement or disaster as they already womp hard down low). Watch this space but don't hold your breath!
05-14-2020, 08:59 AM
speakerdave

Would that be David Davidson?

I think I saw at least one good idea in there. Separate woofer boxes with the woofers moved up in the panel to minimize floor reflections in the upper bass--you will have plenty of woofer for VLF--and a separate aimable mid/treble/UHF box on top with vertical alignment will yield better imaging and soundstage. Follow carefully enclosure types and sizes from clone 4355 builds in this forum for OEM frequency balance and tuning and to avoid mass ring smacking in your woofers. Use the same drivers, horns and lenses as original or you risk making the redrawn 4355 crossover useless. IOW, harness your commendable energy and enthusiasm into making something that you know will work as well as you would want it to.

Welcome to the Lansing forums!
05-14-2020, 10:45 AM
toddalin

Quote:

Originally Posted by Double Dave

Thanks Barry! Just the info I needed. I've messaged the guy - hopefully he still has them.

Have you priced, or even tried to find original 2235 cones? The cost just to recone a 2225 to a 2235 will cost you more than the 2225 (maybe even 3-5 times the cost depending on the deal you make).

Also know that if you do find original cones, the foams are still beaucoup years old. I got 9 years on mine when I had the 2205s reconed as 2235s whereas back in the day you could get ~20 years on a set of new foams (on new cones).
05-14-2020, 01:17 PM
Double Dave

Quote:

Originally Posted by speakerdave

Would that be David Davidson?

I think I saw at least one good idea in there. Separate woofer boxes with the woofers moved up in the panel to minimize floor reflections in the upper bass--you will have plenty of woofer for VLF--and a separate aimable mid/treble/UHF box on top with vertical alignment will yield better imaging and soundstage. Follow carefully enclosure types and sizes from clone 4355 builds in this forum for OEM frequency balance and tuning and to avoid mass ring smacking in your woofers. Use the same drivers, horns and lenses as original or you risk making the redrawn 4355 crossover useless. IOW, harness your commendable energy and enthusiasm into making something that you know will work as well as you would want it to.

Welcome to the Lansing forums!

Thanks Dave! You've got my thinking about steerable mids and tops now... To be honest the awe of the unapologetic mass and awkwardness of the original design is one of the factors that drawers me in, so we'll see how adventurous I'm feeling once I've collected everything - but am keen to explore a few ideas if they make sense, but it's got to provide a notable technical enhancement on the original design or I won't bother (so twin cabs is the only thing that's made the 'serious consideration shortlist' so far), but we'll see. As far as drivers go I've collected all original and mint everything apart from some 2441's, and obviously the 2235's. I also couldn't find any 2308 lenses in any kind of decent condition, but did find some mint boxed new old stock L91's - so that will have to be close enough.

Quote:

Originally Posted by toddalin

Have you priced, or even tried to find original 2235 cones? The cost just to recone a 2225 to a 2235 will cost you more than the 2225 (maybe even 3-5 times the cost depending on the deal you make).

Also know that if you do find original cones, the foams are still beaucoup years old. I got 9 years on mine when I had the 2205s reconed as 2235s whereas back in the day you could get ~20 years on a set of new foams (on new cones).

Yeah for sure thanks Tod. Original C8R2235 recone kits are $216 a go plus taxes and delivery and are available - so it will get pretty pricey with all four. My thinking on it though is I want everything to be mint fresh new and original spec so unless I strike gold somewhere and find a stash of 4 minty fresh un-thrashed 2235H's with foam surrounds that defy time, I'll have to re-cone anything I buy anyway so the cost of the kits is already a given. For example I bought two supposedly really nice 2202H's (older grey baskets in very nice condition) and on arrival one has been re-coned a J, and the other is burned up and locked solid so there's only one way to budget for (at least) a guaranteed result. Also I'd be doing my own re-cone job to save a few bucks (not a stranger to it).

Thanks again all!