The W15GTI also has no screen..., just a massive hole up to the cone area.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnaec
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The W15GTI also has no screen..., just a massive hole up to the cone area.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnaec
Yeah, and given the expected environment is a car trunk its kinda scary:blink:Quote:
Originally Posted by toddalin
Listening to a very bassy track (Janet Jackson - Together Again) at a moderate levels and started to note a bit of a flutter sound from my left sub. Pulled the driver out and the spider has detached about 1/3 of the way around. Looks like a simple fix as it is very easy to get to but I have just emailed PartsExpress to see how they want to tackle it.
Jarrod
I wonder just how many warranty claims JBL has had against these drivers as used in the Revel 15, HB1500 and TiK.
I didn't realize the driver was that old but it looks like it was in R & D in 1997.
I do not see a nice clean bare aluminum pad where that spider is supposed to attach Jarrod. It looks to me like it's glued to krinkle paint with Bostik.
I have had one failure out of six that I have put in use. My failure looked like Jarrods, with a very clean separation. Some of the Sub1500s that I own have a very messy looking glue line around the edge of the spider. I am not sure if this was in response to the failing glue jobs or if mine are factory reconditioned units.
Jarrods, since shipping the drivers back to PE or JBL will be quite costly, you should track down the correct Loctite or Henkle glue and primer. Look at posts 20 and 25 in this thread.
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...ad.php?p=22690
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Yes it is glued to the grey krinkle paint and the glue is a dark yellow colour.
I thought the consensus was that JBL used a Loctite 422 glue over a 770 primer for these units. Would be a bit of a worry if someone on the floor thought to themselves "I think i'll use a bit of Bostik instead of superglue today".
Maybe the home-fix will not be as easy as I thought if I need to remove the Bostik and krinkle paint.
jarrod
For the price you guys got those for and considering what they can do, just fix them and be happy. :applaud:
Based on the ugly over glued units I have, I would refrain from cleaning as you'll likely get junk in the gap. I'd spray the primer on the metal (wrinkle paint) and then soak the hell out of the edge of the spider and 4mm or so down the side of the frame with glue and I'd expect you'd be good to go. At least that is how some of mine look.Quote:
Originally Posted by jarrods
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The response to my question of Loctite Australia about the products was not what I wanted to hear:
"Thank you for your query.
422 is a gap filling Instant Adhesive (up to 0.02").
The 422 is brought into Australia in the 500g packaging only. There is no smaller size available."
Now that would be good if I had 1,000 failed drivers. Let's see what PE want to do? Maybe they can send me some glue & primer. :D
jarrod
In my 1st post in this thread, http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...4&postcount=60, I said only one of my sub1500's had failed. I was wrong....both did.:( But not to the same degree. The 1st failed around 3/4 of the diameter of the spyder while the 2nd only 1/3.
My repair method on the 1st didn't quite turn out 100% good because at loud volumes the voice coil rubs now, so it appears it shifted when I glued it down. I believe I lifted the spyder too high because there's not much room too squease that glue in from the side. I did run a 30hz signal through it then and it was ok but the next day it was rubbing.:( I'm hopeing it will loosen up over time.:dont-know
On the 2nd driver I figured out how to get the glue in there with out screwing up!:applaud:
Tilt the sub1500 on it's edge, and get some help because it's heavy, lift that spyder just a little with a knife, dribble the glue in the gap and rotate the speaker on it's edge as you go. See now it's easy with the glue bottle vertical!:banghead:
PS: The 1st pic shows the only spot where the spyder didn't lift. I used cloths pins to hold it up.
I think that's what people are trying to do. The designer of the transducer was shocked that these drivers weren't being manufactured correctly.Quote:
Originally Posted by John
Parts Express will not entertain a warranty as they say it is from a 'buyout'. JBL Professional aren't interested as they have no records of a SUB1500 driver ever existing. Even when I say it sits here in a box clearly barcode labelled as model SUB1500 right next to a big white JBL Professional sicker they still say it is not their product. OK so it might be JBL Consumer but why is it packed in a box of another company/division.
Anyway I have ordered some 770 and 422 from R.S.Hughes in 50ml and 30ml sizes repectively. Better than what is available here in Australia the 500ml bottles...
jarrod
1 Sub1500 dead (the one above in the pic's) and my other on it's way out.
Have some graphic pics to post. The spider totally detached from the cone!:(
I'm seriously doubting that it's worth repairing these things. :dont-know::(
At least my glue job didn't fail!:)
I'm holding the cone up with my thumb.:(
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j7...tachedcone.jpg
Seems as though you need more woofer... either more than one pair of Sub1500s, or simply more woofer. Personally I do not like the sound of the 2242 as much as I like the Sub1500 or W1500H, but they are nearly indestructible. In addition to having a different sound, they also require much bigger boxes.
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