First I have to get a contractor for the room modifications.
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How big a room are you putting this into??Quote:
First I have to get a contractor for the room modifications.
Rob:)
It's about 4,760 cubic feet.
Approximately 14' 6" wide in the front to 16' 6" in the back, 32' deep, and 10' 8" high in the front stepped to 8' 8" in the back (the floor is stepped, not the ceiling).
That’s only trifle more bit larger than my living room.
Live in noisy neighbourhood with yelling and barking dogs, trains planes and automobiles outside?
You’re going to have to counterbalance this thread with the same amount of pages with images because the text is starting to tip this one over.:D
Synthesis, right ahead!
Hard to starboard!:D
Been browsing though one of the user manual. It has computer lead input. So does the engineer calibrate this from his office as these things are shipped around worldwide and it would be near or not quite impossible but, its not a commercial cinema it’s the home. Home doesn’t make any commercial profit, cinema does.
Seems like dicey thing to set-up with all this computer aided technology. Guess this will take days to set-up.
Are you building any type of THX baffle wall for the front LCR and subs bass speakers’ to be housed in?
Testing for rattles and buzzes on each speaker assembly.
Tighten down windows doors lighting and remove any objects from the room that might present an issue with rattling or buzzing sounds.
Oh, yeah, this is going to take you days until you can start playing with it.:bouncy:
The freight company called and scheduled delivery between 10 and 2 on Wednesday the 11th. You can see some photos then.
I've got a contractor coming by tomorrow to estimate some flatwork for me.
Some estimates for room treatments are on the way.
$$$$$$$$ :spchless:
In the end, I'll probably do 80% of the work myself, so it'll be weeks, not days before this all comes together.
Fly me over and I’ll lead a hand. I’ve got sod-all to plus the weather is naff over here.:D
I was right that room has to be remodelled from the ground-up to fully exploit the grandeur of the JBL Synthesis and beyond!
Set your goals high and beyond or on par with the Empire. :applaud:
Most cinemas often take many months of design planning building and installing, before opening its doors to the general public.
I have THX manual around the flat somewhere that goes into not too much detail for home THX set-up but it does state not sure about the quote. It takes more than just stacking speakers up in room.
I think you’ve taken on a huge undertaking that will take several months before its all finished.
Have done any nail sketch drawings as of yet, what design ides do you have in mind? a cool looking near by JBL THX cinema might be good starting point?
Keep the materials high but affordable remember this has cots you, “a bomb” “a bo” “no not a bo” “a bomb”!:D
Any plans to put a few real cinema seats in the room to make it feel and look the part.
Any thoughts as of yet, are you daydreaming brainstorming the idea out on paper?
Lots of paper sketches, lots of room treatment alternatives, lots of sweating over $$$$ to do it right.
Right now I'm thinking $4,000 for room treatments, $10,000 for construction, $1,500 for calibration, and $XX,000 for the system. Egad!
Still working on final ratios, but the room specs out well at 14'6"x22'6"x10'8", with three tiers, all gear stowed in a separate, adjacent room (needs to be partially excavated and concrete floor put in), plus extensive application of sound traps and wall treatments. Then of course there's wiring and independent electrical service, new ultra-quiet HVAC system, another trip to Ikea for Poang chairs. etc.
Some might say "Why?" but I've made the commitment. I'm going to get it as close as I possible can while I can still enjoy it, and f@#k everything else. I'll be driving that Hyundai for a long time to come. :D
Whoa, whoa hold on down not some fast and don’t be too hasty. Have you really got that kind of money to splash out? $10K is lot of money I mean a lot. Surly you do this for less than $10KI mean that room isn’t cinema size and yet I can understand commitment and dedication to perfection, just as long as it doesn’t cost $6Million:o: if you catch my drift.;)
If I was going to do my living room out I’d keep it within a hundreds not the thousands.
Anyway it’s your money not mine, just don’t go overboard.
{muttering to myself $10K this guy is crazy.]:D
Can you draw no I don’t mean Gunfight at the Okay corral can you draw basic pictures with colouring pencils. Draw some ideas and lets all have look.
In my oppinion $10k on construction isnt that bad if you want it done right. Just think about what it costs to redo a kitchen or a bathroom..
The $$$ fly free......
-Tim
Have you ever spent a few hours cradled in a Poang chair??
They are relatively inexpensive (even with leather cushions),
they are darned comfortable, and look quite good as well!
Add in the matching footstools and ... ahhhh!
Wish I had a bigger room - but the chair is perfecto!
Hello HeatherQuote:
Have you ever spent a few hours cradled in a Poang chair??
Are those neck rests or head rests?? Does the back of the chair go above your head??
Rob:)
The point of doing this and F^$%g everything else is so true! I finally bought a decent system but my hearing is obviously deteriorating. Enjoy the Hyundai, maybe upgrade the stereo so it accepts MP3s:D and all will be good.
Enjoy!
Mark
PS are those the 240TI you out bid me when I was noob?
Is that L x W x H?
If so, the JBL Room Mode Calculator shows the imbedded image. There are weak clusters at ~50Hz, ~100Hz and ~158Hz, but not so bad.
But, since you are doing all this advance planning you really should check out the Room Reverb / Sabine Calculator and Charts site and work through your possible RT60 using Sabine values of various wall/ceiling/floor materials. You could end-up with a really sweet place.
As well, Linkwitz has some great stuff, and a Room Mode calculator, too. However, my quick model of your ratios shows you are WELL ahead of the game! Nice! ;)
.
.
Thanks for the insight, Bo.
The front distance is set by the physical imitations of the house construction. I'd have to do major excavation to widen it, since the bottom floor goes into the side of the canyon. So, 14' 6" is a given.
The 22' 6" is somewhat arbitrary. I think I need to truncate the space and not use the full 32' length that's available, and I want whatever's left over to be useable.
The 10' 8" height is tricky, because it's not that high down the entire length of the room. It's 8' 6" at the back of the room due to the three-tiered floor. It actually requires a more sophisticated model than just a normal room mode calculator.
At this point I don't have access to anything that will let me model the actual room and, to be honest, I'm not sure I could understand it if I did. The alternative is to pay someone to do it, and the best estimate so far is $2500 and the worst is $6500. That seems like a lot, especially given all the other costs. That would buy a fair amount of room treatments.
Who is doing the room treatments?? If it's a contractor they would have to do the analysis as part of it no?? How else would they be able to determine what you needed and where?? On paper great but at some point they would have to come in and actually measure the room.Quote:
That would buy a fair amount of room treatments.
Rob:)
Even though some of us (myself included) are shocked at spending $10k on construction, it's a general contractor doing the work. The LA area "HT specialists" want $40k+ and they don't mess with chumps like me. They can go down to Rancho Palos Verdes, over to Pacific Palisades, or down to the OC and find lots of folks willing to spend $100k or more for the Ultimate Home Theater. Frankly, who needs that ego stroke?
Not me. This is, in effect, a DIY, be-your-own GC (general contractor) arrangement. I may live in SoCal, but I'm still a midwesterner by birth, inclination, and temperament. :yes: I've still got that can-do attitude when it comes to this kind of stuff. Once I pay for the system, the construction, the treatments, and the calibration, I have more time than money to get the rest of it right.
I've been in contact with the acoustimac folks and am working with their service reps to put together an appropriate treatment package. They're very helpful.
I failed to mention that the contractor I hired built recording studios in the area. I visited two to see the quality and character of the work.
Yes, I know recording studio ≠ home theater. ;)
The floor in there is already concrete and the room is 100% below grade on two sides, 80% below grade on one side, and about 40% below grade on the other. I'm not interested in more concrete in there, floating or not. ;) Plus the cost of a yard of concrete is out of sight.
We're actually talking about a pair of floating risers in the seating area with a couple of THX subs underneath in the sealed space. Think butt-kicker extreme (switchable of course, because they serve no purpose in music).
The room will have no windows and will have only two doors--one to the outside and one to the equipment room and emergency exit.
You got that right!
I was amazed at what passed for 5.1 setup at the last studio I wired. I setup 5 identical Genelecs on really nice stands, 3 along the glass in front of the console, 2 at the back of the room, along with the sub at the end of the console. Not really fine tuned, or EQ'ed in any way, just an approximation so I could test the speakers. The next time I tried to get in that room, it was already being used!:blink:
Had to schedule the testing of the video tielines for after the current project was finished...
BTW a powerful sub and a tone generator is a great tool for finding rattles in the room treatments, lighting, etc...
Hey Dome,
Looking forward to a detailed story of the travails and triumphs of your room reconstruction and system installation with lots of pictures and anecdotes.
How about some "before" pictures of your room before it starts getting transformed.
Hope the journey will be more :bouncy: than :banghead: !
I think we need more pictures please more:)…there’s too much text.
After an extensive discussion with the contractor today, I've decided that what we're planning won't be quite good enough. So, we're revising some of the room dimensions, in particular the length to get better room ratios.
Looking at a "normalized ceiling height of 9' 6", width of 14' 8" and length of 30' 4", we get pretty good numbers. Comments?
You are not using the "Golden Ratio's" are you??Quote:
Looking at a "normalized ceiling height of 9' 6", width of 14' 8" and length of 30' 4", we get pretty good numbers. Comments?
http://www.ultimateavmag.com/news/10388/index.html
Rob:)
Actually, the first two numbers (height and width) are very close to the ratios, but the third (length) would have to be 37' 9" which is 7' 5" outside the existing walls down there. I'm not going to excavate that much dirt, especially considering there are two floors above that would have to be supported while the foundation wall is removed. Na ga ha, Bar.
Plus, the Synthesis® marketing/engineering piece states that the $16,500 SDEC-4000 can handle any room, so we'll get it as close as we can to minimize the amount of calibration needed, then let the JBL tech handle the rest. :D
golden Ratios are not a good way of knowing if your going to have good or bad sound
there are too many variables
in this calculations you take for granted that all modes will be exited and in the same degree and that the listener will here all these modes
this is far from reality since the speaker are not set in the 3 way corners and the listener ears are not in the corners were all modes interact
second your room is not a perfect rectangle and does not have perfect reflecting surface so the distribution is far from being as in sou ch papers
it is allot more important to place the speaker correctly and too have good acoustic treatment diffusion and absorption in the correct places
ti dome you should buy Floyd Toole book Sound Reproduction is has a lot more knowledge probably more than your contractor and it is an easy read
the sdec 4000 is an incredible tool specially if it is used as a finishing touch
I should have some pictures to post this weekend of the ongoing modifications in the HT room. We've been doing a search of the blueprints to get some insight into the structural design down there. It appears there might be a column that runs from the foundation through all three floors and up to the gable in the attic. This would be a major factor, both in removing the wall to join the two rooms and in the possible placement of the S4Ai units.
Ouch!! That can get really expensive. Sounds like it could be load bearing. Are the floor joists or headers tied to it?? Is it a Plumbing/Electical/Heat/Air conduit?? That could suck as well. Well good luck I hope it is something you can easilly move without major renovations.Quote:
It appears there might be a column that runs from the foundation through all three floors and up to the gable in the attic.
Rob:)
Looks like the Dome is making small waves on AVS:p as someone here posted this or it might be a natural JBL voyeur peeking around.:D Thing is Dome how far have you got so far is it starting to come together or is it still boxed up?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=866797&page=180
It turns out the wall not only has a load bearing column in it right down to the foundation, it has TWO load bearing columns.
Oh, and did I mention that underneath the drywall the entire thing is covered in 3/4 plywood to act as a shear wall for earthquake protection?
So, when we bought the place and I ask the contractor, who retrofitted it and installed the Radon removal system, if that was a load bearing wall, why did he say, "No, it's not. You can take it out."?
His recent reply: "Oh, that wall. I thought you meant the false wall we put in front of it." Effing moron! :bash:
So now, we just finished re-drywalling what was ripped out and cleaning up the dusty, gritty mess that it all left. Later, I'll undertake the sanding, finish coating, sanding, priming, sanding, and painting, Hooray.
This is preferable to the estimated $40,000-50,000 and 45 days to bring in steel beams and jacks to hold up the house, dig out the load bearing wall and columns, pour new foundations, pour new floors, erect structural steel to bear the load, remove the temporary beams and jacks, refinish the walls and ceiling that will need to be removed to install the the support beams and the permanent beams, and have the mess hauled away.
NOT gonna happen!
According to JBL, this system will work in rooms from 1500 cu. ft. to 16,000 cu. ft. So I can put it in a 2,505 cu. ft. room or a 2,260 cu. ft. room. The 2,505 room has better dimensions (8'8"x15'5"x16'6"); the other room is basically a 14'6" square with 10'9" ceilings.
Any suggestions?
Proper installing for improved intelligibility, best 3D room acoustics included:
____________
Peter :)
So, no way to work around the columns?
That sucks... not only will your space be smaller than intended, but the noise transmission issues. Oh well, at least you have options.
Widget
Yup, that there's a load bearing false wall we put in front - it's made from magical sheet rock and NASA grade spackle.... Seriously - why would anyone think you were inquiring about the load-bearing status of a false wall??? :banghead:
Anyway, sorry to hear about that! It sounds like you have options to work around it, though, from your follow-up post. I'm sure wehn all is said and done, the sound will be spectacular enough to take your mind off of the room architecture :)
P.S., OT - your GF's got a nice car! ;)
Well, we'll deal with most of the sound transmission issues through rebuilding the false wall to be detached from the load bearing wall. It'll make the room a little narrower, but that will help with modes.
We can put one riser in as well, which will help break things up a bit, and the treatments folks have a pretty good handle on the room redesign already. I'll get more coverage for less money, because the room is smaller. :idea:
We have a great idea for an equipment closet that will not intrude on the room, so there's a net gain in room volume there.
The wall and ceiling painting will have to be redone, since it was done in "back of the HT" colors, and now it will have the front of the HT as well.
The ceiling lights will have to stay as they are. I don't want to pay for that again. I may switch out some bulbs to create a different balance.
The electrical will require some mods, but we hadn't actually run the wiring for the equipment panel pending removal of the wall. The speaker wiring isn't in yet, as we're still waiting on the in-wall cable.
"Wer den Schaden hat, der braucht für den Spott nicht zu sorgen." -Quote:
Proper installing for improved intelligibility, best 3D room acoustics included:
I am convinced you will manage your project with success!
"Ich stehe auf Deiner Seite." :thmbsup:
____________
Peter
Why not use cable trunking its effective and doesn’t cost the Earth and the hassles of cutting into the wall what mess it makes, and what if you wanted to change cables, with cable trunking just strip off the facial front and replace with new cable.
The S4Ai speakers for the sides and rears are in-wall units. Plus they require four conductors each, so it's better to have them in the walls all the way.
So you mean to say you’re fixing them flush with the wall surfaces?
15' 5" x 16' 6"! I'd have to rethink that room for all that speaker system. I'd call that getting to too narrow and like you say the other room is even worse.
But on second thought, I suppose those vertical horns will work better being stuck in the corners to the sides of the screen, than a normal speaker system would. Which is why I built my LR to the max width I could get (17.5') and still have a front deck.
I've done enough remodels, of both houses and hotel/casinos, to know there will always be unforeseen problems that jump right at you as you tear into the existing, that are totally unexcepted, no matter what the old blueprints might show.
The acoustic panels are being manufactured in Florida as I write. It'll take about three business days to manufacture, four days to ship, then it's install time! I have to have the room mostly ready by then.
A 500 ft. spool of UltraCap is on its way from NY. I got the 14/4 version.
Each SAM1HF/SAM2LF requires its own twisted pair, so I'll need four conductors for each of the three front channels. The S4Ai requires two twisted pairs, so I'll need four conductors for each of the surround channels.
The two S1S-EX subs only need a single pair, but I'll just run four conductors anyway and double them up. OOOOHH! It's like bi-wiring subs. :biting:
This stuff has 105 strands per conductor.
I got some custom-tinted Glidden flat paint at Home Depot. It's a dark, dark brown, almost black.
Since the ceiling is divided into four quadrants, I'm planning on painting the front two quadrants with this dark paint to cut down on reflections. Depending on the look, I may do the whole thing. I may paint the front wall, too, despite the fact that the proscenium will be covered in black acoustical panels and fabric. I doubt that any front wall will be showing.
I also got the lumber for the equipment closet, which we'll start this weekend.
Early Saturday morning I'm driving to Santa Ana, CA to pick up two 20 space equipment racks. These will be mounted inside the closet.
The closet will have a perforated floor with a filter so the fan at the top can draw the air through the racks (and especially the amps) and exhaust the hot air.
Dividing the stack into two shorter racks makes heat removal easier and provides some additional wall space at the top for installation of an S4Ai.
Twenty yards of black crushed velvet is on its way from the SF Bay Area. This will go on the walls above about 27" except where the acoustic panels are.
I still haven't decided if I want to put some batting behind it. It won't have much practical benefit except for making the thing look more plush, I guess. Anyone have any thoughts?
I plan to keep the bottom 27-28" of the side and rear walls bare, except in the four corners where there will be bass traps.
I've tried to locate and purchase the S4Ai retrofit brackets, Synthesis® S4FRB, but those who claim to sell them are out of stock. If I can't locate some soon, we'll fabricate our own, I guess. The brackets are probably more of a convenience than a necessity.
If anyone has four of these sitting around, let me know.
I guess you've never seen these, right there in CA, nothing like cotton for clothes or acoustic panels.
http://www.soundaway.com/Acoustic_Co...05_p/17805.htm
Hey where are the pictures??
You can't take us through thus without them.
Rob:useless:
OK, I'll take a picture of the dark brown paint I put on the ceiling, a picture of the construction materials, and a picture of the covered equipment.
This photo shows just inside the entry door to the bottom level. Due to the load bearing wall issue, this will no longer be part of the HT. :biting:
So now it serves as a staging area for the activities up the stairs. OOHH, it's a jammed mess!
The box on the floor is 500' of 14/4 oxygen-free, 105 strand per conductor speaker wire. "Audiophile Grade" of course, and RoSH compliant. :p
Eventually this lowest level will return as the music/fitness room.
Turning right toward the stairs takes us in the direction of the now reduced-sized HT. With the latest plans it will be 2704 cu. ft.
In the second, slightly higher shot, A PT800 still languishes on the wall. The particle board will be the floor for the riser in the back of the room.
Fascinating picture Dome plenty of topic to talk about. What is that box on the floor with tube sticking out it? Is it one of those syrup things for soda pop machine?
Do you use the JBL PT800 for centre back surrounds?
Just to the left of the stairs is the area that will be carved out of the music/fitness room to make way for the Synthesis® equipment closet. A couple pieces of metal conduit are ready to be pressed into service to shield the cable runs to the front and back.
Going up the stairs and looking back, we see the big pile of Synthesis® equipment, minus the amps, which are stacked in another part of the room. Again, adjacent to the stairs (this time to the right) is the area where the equipment closet will be built.
The railing comes out tomorrow and the framing begins.
Next to the soon-to-be-built closet is the wall that couldn't be removed. There's a nice patch over the discovery hole now. The stepped area in front is actually drywall over the foundation.
A continuous row of brown acoustical panels will be installed just above the level of the highest step. The 24"x48"x2" panels will run lengthwise the entire length of the wall. Above the panels the walls will be draped in black crushed velvet. Below the panels, the Swiss Coffee color will remain, at least until we see how it all comes together.
There will be extreme low-level lighting at the receptacles.
The ceiling is in four quadrants, and the front two are painted a dark, dark brown. also, the plenums and beams are painted this color.
In actuality, the side of the visible beam will be covered with brown, angled acoustical panels, and the undersid of the plenum will have black acoustical panels on it out to 96".
In the front, where the proscenium will be, the white ledge and supporting drywall box will be gone. The wall will be virtually covered with black acoustical panels.
Above the screen, there will be black, angled panels, and the white screen case will be covered in black fabric. The front corners will have black, angled acoustical panels to keep the corners from accumulating waves.
At the junction of the walls and the floor, there will be 24"x48"x4" black bass traps.
For the eternally curious, here's the framing lumber for the equipment closet and the floor riser.
All along the back wall there will be a continuous, horizontal run of 24"x48"x2" black, acoustical panels at the same height as the other walls. Above that, the wall will be covered in black crushed velvet.
Finally, back down in the music/fitness room, the source equipment and the Synthesis® amps are evident.
The PT800s will come out. They will be replaced by the in-wall S4Ai units/
The room treatments are completed and are being shipped. This is actually quite exciting! They'll come by freight; it's too much for UPS or FedEx.
This will be quite an experience, as I've only done half-assed room treatments before, and this will be all the way. It wasn't cheap, but I expect big gains.
I decided to go with acoustical panels instead of foam absorbers and diffusers. Every top notch professional studio I've visited has gone the acoustical panel route or some variation thereof.
I should get them this week.
I hope the black crushed velvet gets here first, as I can't put the panels up until the walls are done.
The closet is coming together for the equipment. It's a lot more work than expected. Removing the railing and stringers was hard due to lots of carpenter glue and long metal screws. Then a platform had to be built and a wall framed in.
The space beneath the platform will become a storage locker in the music/fitness room.
From the back side, here's the framed wall with the opening for the equipment racks. The racks are temporarily placed to check clearance.
Once I locate the proper wall cavity on the far wall, we'll frame in the area above the opening to accommodate an S4Ai.
The amps will be to the left (from the back) and other stuff will be to the right.
We spent the better part of three hours working a 10' steel conduit through the wall on the left to the open space under the house. It will be used to guide the three speaker cables for the front; that's 12 conductors total. I think we'll run one more cable for "just in case" situations, like adding a second SAM2LF to the center channel down the road or perhaps another sub.
You can also see the 6" riser on the floor in the back of the room for the back row of chairs.
From the HT side and standing on the riser, here's a look at the front of the equipment closet.
I feel so much taller. :applaud:
Here's three quick shots of the area next to the HT and music/fitness room. The walls are insulated and there's dead air space between the new walls and the old.
This huge area has a Radon removal system in it, hence the piping and thick plastic membranes on the ground.
We'll be running cables and wiring on the outside of these walls, accessing the area from the equipment closet via the 10' metal conduit installed today.
Shot one shows the walls adjacent to the HT and music/fitness rooms. Subsequent shots pan left. Someday I'd like to finish this space, with it's 10' ceilings. It'd be nice to have a bathroom down here.
Finally the replacement S5160 arrived intact. Yay!
Man those things are heavy. The UPS guy and I struggled to get it safely down to its destination.
I also received the new projector mount, the 25' HDMI cable, and 30 yards of black crushed velvet.
I love it when a plan comes together.
Pictures please.
I now have 420 pounds of acoustical panels moved into the room. I had to move 'em myself, as the delivery guy wouldn't take them past the street--and I live a long way from the street.
Too tired to take a pic now, but will get one this weekend. That's a lot of freaking panels. :biting:
Okay, here are some lousy shots of the panels. How many do you want to see? Some are black and some are brown. The black ones will go in the front (the proscenium) for the most part.
Altogether there are about thirty acoustical panels, including four bass traps.
They're pre-made. They were custom-built and shipped from Florida to California. I expected good quality and got better than I expected. :thmbsup:
One box had a little damage--forklift penetration it looked like--that damaged one panel. So the company shipped me a new one no questions asked. Great service.
I just got a call from Chris Neumann, former head of JBL Synthesis®. He's driving down from Northridge this morning to look over the room and give me advice on speaker placement and acoustical panel installation.
After I follow his instructions and the work is complete, he'll come back for the calibration.
I failed to mention that Chris was referred by Ron Rouse, the current head of JBL Synthesis®.
Chris is a very cool guy, though he just gave me a lot of work to do. At least I know what I need to accomplish, and when the system is done, it will be as good as it can be.
I showed him around the house to see the JBLs, and he was excited to see all the different systems. A good time was had by all.:bouncy:
May I kindly suggest you no longer use the forklift it seems like bad idea! Good old fashion lifting a bit of sweating won’t hurt to shed a few pounds off in the summer weather.:bouncy: I think the forklift has got it in for you.:D
I’m not going to ask how much they cost as its rather rude to do so, I can only guess how much.
So what frequencies will they deal with in the room once carefully placed?
4645, the panels were relatively inexpensive for what I got. They cost under $2000, which is not cheap, but inexpensive compared to all the other brands I looked at.
Here are the specifics on the 24x28x4 inch panels (bass traps) and the 24x48x2 panels.
DIY bass traps could have shaved the cost by many hundreds of £$.
Well just as long as it deals with frequency issues. My dad will never understand that.:blink:
I can understand the costs of foam and the special tools to cut and shape the foam but a bass trap there’s hardly anything to it.
ti dome
did you buy any diffusers
you should have a mixture of these for a god envelopment and musicality
refection from the correct angles are very important and the use of diffusers can enhance the sound a lot
killing all the lateral reflection points is not a good practice and it and old practice from recording studios your room is not to be a recording studio
Chris Neumann from Harman should know this since it it all over DR Floyed book and studies
Good pont!http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...ons/icon14.gif
The mirror technique buy having a friend or wife move a small mirror along the sidewalls. I think it’s when you see yourself or a certain refection that, is where you should place the diffuser/diffusers. I’d have to re-read the THX manual.
not realy
envelopment is direction time and frequency dependant
it is not a simple rule of Thom of first reflection points
60 degrees from the listener point is the most effective for envelopment but 70 80 90 and 110 are pretty good
but the you have the frequency and time variables which are important
Chris and I talked about diffusers this morning. We'll have three along the back wall.
Remember, there will be four in-wall S4Ai units in the surround and rear positions. Chris was pleased as he was instrumental in their design and development. They take a whole different approach than if we had more traditional surround speakers.
I couldn't have a better guide, so no worries, guys. :)
Very cool Doug, I'm quite excited for you ! :)
Like so many others of yours , this is a great thread for us lurkers .
Who made those panels for you ? / or have you already mentioned it ?
>< cheers :)
It's good to see pictures of the room coming together. Keep them coming when you have time.