Any of you DIY cabinets???
Just curious about this. I do and was wondering if any of you do and how?? You use MDF or plywood or a combination?? You do butt joints, lock meiters use screws or glue of both?? What size braces 1x2 2x3 2x4?? What kind of tools??
I use MDF and plywood with butts joints held together with glue and screws, its easy. :) Braces are 1x2 flat and 2x3 on end at odd panel dimensions. No 2 braced areas are the same size. Ports are PVC pipe. Sub-enclosures are Sonotubes.
How about tools?? Table saw, Circular saw, Radial arm?? Router or plunge cutter?? Sanders??
Rob:)
Re: Any of you DIY cabinets???
Quote:
Originally posted by Robh3606
Just curious about this. I do and was wondering if any of you do and how?? You use MDF or plywood or a combination?? You do butt joints, lock meiters use screws or glue of both?? What size braces 1x2 2x3 2x4?? What kind of tools??
I use MDF and plywood with butts joints held together with glue and screws, its easy. :) Braces are 1x2 flat and 2x3 on end at odd panel dimensions. No 2 braced areas are the same size. Ports are PVC pipe. Sub-enclosures are Sonotubes.
How about tools?? Table saw, Circular saw, Radial arm?? Router or plunge cutter?? Sanders??
Rob:)
At one time or another I have used virtually all of the techniques and materials you have mentioned. I am spoiled as I have a complete shop for my business with a better selection and far better quality tools at my disposal than any Home Despot.
I would like to make a few recommendations to anyone about to purchase tools for speaker or furniture building.
If you use veneered MDF or plywood and miter the corners you will need several band clamps and probably a few bar or pipe clamps as well.
Instead of screwing cabinets together, which is fine, I use a narrow crown stapler. You need one that can fire 1.5" long staples. Most of the inexpensive imports won't take the longer staples. Unfortunately the good ones cost $200-$300 but once you've shot a box together in a couple of seconds you'll never want to use screws again. Of course screws or staples are only used if you will be veneering the cabinet. If you do use screws and then veneer the cabinet I would recommend that once the cabinet is fully dry you remove the screws and fill the holes prior to veneering as the screws can back out with time. As far as breaking screws goes, pre drilling is good for harder woods, and there are different grades and sizes of screws available.
For sanders I would recommend that you not get a belt sander unless you are experienced with them. If you do get one, get a 4" wide model. I would highly recommend that you get a random orbital sander preferably one with some sort of dust collection feature that you can hook up to your shop vac. Finally you will need a jitter bug style finishing sander. The Makita is ok but noisy, I prefer the Porter Cable.
I would not buy a radial arm saw as they are not very accurate, but if you have one they do work.
If you don't have the room or budget for a proper table saw, you can get a self clamping straight edge to use with a circular saw. The one I have is an aluminum extrusion that is a little over 8 feet long with a pocket underneath to except two clamps that slide along under it so that you clamp it down to your plywood and ride along the edge with your saw. I bought it 25 years ago before I had a table saw but I still use it on occasion for cutting odd angles or as a router jig. You can accomplish the same thing with a straight piece of wood and two C clamps but they are not very convenient.
Ah, the table saw. I have a 5 horsepower Powermatic. It is a joy to use but it requires a 25 amp 240V circuit, costs over $2,000, and isn't particularly useful without extension tables. For speaker building I wouldn't recommend any table saw without extension tables. If you don't have the room for the extension tables you will probably have better results with a good circular saw and the cutting guide I mentioned earlier. If you do have the room, buy the most powerful saw you can afford. My first saw was the classic Sears 1 horse contractor style saw. I quickly found I had to buy a bigger motor or use thin kerf blades. There are many saws from companies like JET that are acceptable. Make sure you get the fence upgrade. I like the Biesemeyer T-Square, but there are copies that will probably work well also.
Here are two links. The first is a decent place to find power tools and the other is the best hardware source on earth.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...182689-4504024
http://www.mcmaster.com/