Printable View
I was wanting to start building up a 5.1 suround system from some parts I have to laying around. and other parts can be added. this is what I have to start with, 4-tad 1602's, 4 - 2420 comp. drivers , 4 -2345 horns , 2 -dbx drive rack studio's. if one was to build a very good system, how would these parts be aranged and what would be added to make a great system your input would be most helpfull thanks
was thinking like le10a toped off with the horns and the tad's for the subs, but would this be a mono, pair , or one in each corner ? would the 2345 be suited for this or do I need to upgrade ?is there a need for a 3 way system or could this be done with a 2 way ?
Do you want to build the complete system, or do you already have mains?
What are the mains, if you have them?
5.1 is left and right mains (front), two surrounds, center, and sub, so what you're describing doesn't add up.... :dont-know
I'm looking to build a compleat system, a 5.1 left right center and 2 surounds, the parts I have listed is just suff I have around the house to start with.
http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/Radial_Horns1.pdf
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...etailComponent
I'd be trying two-way first. With proper compensation, 2420 will play nicely from 800 Hz to 20 kHz. Don't know how well on 2345 horns, tho.
Others here likely have experience with that combination.
Are the 1602's in cabinets? Try it. 900 Hz crossover, TAD says, for starters.
BB6P suggests 5 cuft. tuned to 27 Hz for "Extended bass" alignment (see below).
If that works, and you like the way it sounds, your mains are done.
Do you have an RTA set up in DriveRack Studio? Can't do this without one, I don't think.
You want your center to be made of similar sounding components, but a center made with that horn is going to be fairly deep, physically. Is that a problem?
Like this, maybe, using a pair of smaller woofers that sound similar to 1602's?
Would that be LE10A's?
http://www.jblsynthesis.com/products...=US&Region=USA
Your surrounds are less critical with respect to matching. I'm thinking a little more "spacious" sound field for them, like what member Hamiltion recently built: L200t3 using LE14A woofer and biradial horn. You'll need one more 2420, if you want to use those:
http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Te...200t3%20ts.pdf
Two 1602's left, then, to build a pair of subs. :)
Sell that stuff and go off and buy a properly designed/matched system.
No FUN or personal satisfaction in THAT, Mike!Quote:
Originally Posted by mikebake
This is DIY, no?
We MAKE stuff here.... :p
The satisfaction is in the resulting performance, the DIY is boxing up the old and unboxing the new. His components are bigger and uglier and lower performance (2345) than necessary for home theater.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zilch
Hornswap later is easy, if necessary.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikebake
Half the fun is tryin' stuff.... :bouncy:
i agree with Zilch on this one lol
If I was to
Sell that stuff and go off and buy a properly designed/matched system.
what would that be ?
and yes the drive rack does have a RTA onboard
Just thinking on it again, what parts that I have is the weakest link ? and what would be suggested that I replace it with ? I have a few grand to spend on this project. http://audioheritage.csdco.com/vbull...es/applaud.gif and capable of fabicating about anything/ wood shop / machine shop / could make things from saliad bowl horns to cabinets. http://audioheritage.csdco.com/vbull...lies/blink.gif
:banghead:
I would think the biggest improvement would come from changing the horns, most likely to the 2344. That would give you the same general configuration as the 4430. Of course, you'd have to figure compensation curves for constant directivity into the crossovers, which would actually be quite easy with the Driveracks. You could also possibly look into some of the newer horns Zilch has tested in his "Q&D" thread. Some of them are so inexpensive they almost beg to be tried out, (though I'd have to revisit the LF cutoff of the horns to see which ones go down to 900 - 1000 hz, if staying 2-way). If going 3-way, a 10" would likely fill the bill for mids. The 2012H is the only 10" JBL currently offers, and would also likely require some special crossover compensation to blend in.
John