LE15 & PR15 vs. 2 x LE15?
Forum members,
this is my first real post on the forum, I find it a great source for information and inspiration.
My question relates to optimal use of LE15As/PR15s I have access to. For each enclosure I can either use one 8 ohm LE15A in combination with a PR15 or alternatively two 16 ohm LE15As (total load 8 ohm), and no PR15. I plan to use an active x-over, so impedance load on the x-over is probably not an issue. The rest of the setup will be one 2421B and one 2405 pr. enclosure, and a 3-way active crossover (crossing over @ approximately 800 Hz and 7-8 kHz).
What do you consider the advantages/disadvantages of the two LE15 setups? I'm trying to keep my enclosures at a reasonable size, so that will be an issue to consider. What would be a good enclosure size for two LE15As, they would probably require a ported enclosure? With the help of a friend and his equipment I'm able to tune the enclosures/ports.
I would appreciate any recommendations, advice or comments.
Thanks, and best wishes,
Sigurd
(S.O.Stefansson)
LE15 impedance and design goal
Mr Widget,
Thanks for your constructive comments and for reminding me about the various threads discussing LE15 impedance. I've looked at them before, but somehow didn't quite connect them with the labels on my own drivers.
I should have mentioned that one of the two '16 ohm' LE15A pairs have been measured by my friend 'Flodstroem' (also on the forum) and they are indeed 16 ohm (the have been reconed probably using a C16R2215 cone). I think their DC resistance was around 9 ohm. The other two pairs are both original, one pair labeled 8 ohm (grey frame), the other 16 ohm (blue frame).
What you are saying is that both of these original pairs (despite their labels) are probably 10 ohm drivers (according to Giskard's previous list and comments)?
Hmm... I guess the next question is what happens if I try to combine one true 16 ohm LE15 and one 10 ohm LE15 in the same enclosure? Is it possible to combine drivers with different impedances this way, powered by the same amplifier? I clearly don't know enough about the physics involved.
Now, what I'd like to achieve with these drivers (or driver + passive radiator) is a dynamic, neutral well-defined bass sound. I don't necessarily have to cover the very deepest sub-bass notes, as long as the sound I get is 'true', ie., bass when there should be bass, and not a blurry undefined bass. Perhaps 'definition' is the word that best describes what I'm trying to achieve.
I hope this makes sense, and I look forward to hearing from you (and maybe other forum members) again.
Sigurd
(S.O.Stefansson)