Need help with 2235H enclosure design

Hello all, First time poster long time lurker. I have limited space in my vintage 2 channel room. I can't have 2 mini fridges in there. WAF is an issue.
Does anyone see an issue with building an odd shaped enclosure? I would like to construct a 1.5 cu ft. enclosure for the room itself, cut through the hardwood floor and add a second sealed and connected 3 cu.ft.enclosure below in the basement floor joist cavity. That means a vertical cabinet attached to a horizontal one through the floor. It would give the illusion of a much smaller cabinet in the room visually. This would enclose the 2235H only.

Does anyone see an issue?

Thanking anyone in advance

As long as the opening joining the two sections of cabinet is large enough to allow adequate airflow, and avoids making a resonator out of one or both of the cavities, there's no problem. A rule of thumb I use when connecting internal cavities is the opening should be the area of the driver(s), or greater. Maybe someone here can bring more science to the discussion.

I'll add, if you have a router, round the edges of the opening for better airflow.

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Originally Posted by fpitas

As long as the opening joining the two sections of cabinet is large enough to allow adequate airflow, and avoids making a resonator out of one or both of the cavities, there's no problem. A rule of thumb I use when connecting internal cavities is the opening should be the area of the driver(s), or greater. Maybe someone here can bring more science to the discussion.

I'll add, if you have a router, round the edges of the opening for better airflow.

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wow, thanks for responding...I agree completely. I was going to make the connection hole the size of the collective openings of the basket...maybe a tad larger....work for you?

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Originally Posted by vanbeek

wow, thanks for responding...I agree completely. I was going to make the connection hole the size of the openings of the basket...maybe a tad larger....work for you?

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Should work fine.

I agree that this should work, but cutting a big enough hole for this to work is quite a commitment for a speaker that you might want to replace down the road.

Why not consider a sub satellite design?


Widget

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vanbeek

Hello all, First time poster long time lurker. I have limited space in my vintage 2 channel room. I can't have 2 mini fridges in there. WAF is an issue.

Does anyone see an issue?

Thanking anyone in advance

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i SEE 2 issues ....movement for best sound ......and the "PORT"
design of it....... could be tricky w/2 cavities

The 2235 is a nice musical woofer, but it also requires 5 to 6cft to breath and get best extension. More modern subwoofers are designed for smaller enclosures, will handle more power, more excursion, and will go deeper, at the expense of needing a bigger amp. A smaller enclosure can be easily hidden for WAF and to reach best sound. I think that ability to move a sub is a must.

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Originally Posted by Mr. Widget

I agree that this should work, but cutting a big enough hole for this to work is quite a commitment for a speaker that you might want to replace down the road.

Why not consider a sub satellite design?


Widget

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Yes it is a huge commitment..lol I'm a 60 year guy. This is my shot at a custom classic JBL driver 4 way. There is no room for a sub. The room cannot 'take' the volume of the enclosure required. I have built a solid walnut, waterjet cut, anodized aluminum rack, specificaly designed for its location in this room. It optically works. The JBL 4 way using vintage drivers is what is 'required' for this vintage system in this room to finish it off. Since I can't have 2 mini fridges aka 4343/44/45s, I have to be creative. The same goes for the amps, which are located in the basement below the Rack in the room. The waf is unacceptable unless hidden...2 Pioneer m22s and 2 spec 4s.

I have a HT with sub/sat combo. love it, but is is not the classic 2 channel.....


I started with a John W set of L100 clones...beautifully built....but not a JBL 4 way....for the vintage room


hence the journey continues....

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Originally Posted by Fort Knox

i SEE 2 issues ....movement for best sound ......and the "PORT"
design of it....... could be tricky w/2 cavities

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I agree. That's why I'm asking the experts. Any help will be appreciated....

please understand that for the room, it has to be 2 channel just like when I was a kid and stood in awe.....:p

I think as long as your connecting "port" between the two cabinets is about the same area as the woofer's cone you should be fine.


Widget

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mr. Widget

I think as long as your connecting "port" between the two cabinets is about the same area as the woofer's cone you should be fine.


Widget

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Accually...I was Refering to a tuning port ..assuming theirs an opt for it:)

Seems like I recall somebody mounting a couple of subs under his kitchen floor and using the last kitchen cabinets along the wall as his volume, with the opening into the next room through the wall in the cabinets.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fort Knox

Accually...I was Refering to a tuning port ..assuming theirs an opt for it:)

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The ducts will need to be installed. No question. Do you see any sonic issues with the joined 2 enclosures and the unusual configuration? I assumed they would act as one provided the connection between the two was adequate.

To be clear, I'm not insane. At least I don't think so anyway, some (my wife) would argue that though..lol

....What I'm attempting to do is recreate the best sound and visual impact with what was available in that era (70s) for the consumer...a time warp if you will. All electronics and drivers have had to be available during the 70s except for the interconnects, including all amps.

I'm down to last enclosure.

In closing for now, I would like to thank all the LH members past and present, who have contributed to the many articles about the 70s JBL 4 way monitors. I can say that adding the 2122H was an eye opener for me.

There are some pics in the gallery if anyone is interested. Ya, I know the transcriptor tt was not ideal, but I loved it back then with the v15 cartridge and still do. The case for it was custom made by me and my old fart buddies, including the waterjet cut hinges and hardware....

yes, I realize the baffle for the H91 should be larger....It was just an experiment...

just sayin', LOL

thanks again for giving me the time of day...

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The duct can start anywhere in the enclosure, as long as the inner end has plenty of breathing room, at least one diameter to any surface. Flares on both ends are a good idea, although that might not fit in with the vintage motif.

http://www.aes.org/e-lib/download.cfm?ID=11094&name=harman

Typical flared ports:

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/speaker-port-tubes/320

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fpitas

The duct can start anywhere in the enclosure, as long as the inner end has plenty of breathing room, at least one diameter to any surface. Flares on both ends are a good idea, although that might not fit in with the vintage motif.

http://www.aes.org/e-lib/download.cfm?ID=11094&name=harman

Typical flared ports:

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/speaker-port-tubes/320

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Thanks very much for the links and the info. The vintage motif for the speakers will be the drivers themselves only. The ports will installed. If you saw the pictures, you know what I mean....