Biamped L250ti Jubilee Clone

I have been messing with this for about 2 years now:banghead:. Got the driver set about then and have been working on it on and off since. I have the crossover design finished and most of the parts. I am going to build CC networks for the top end and use my DX-1 with custom cards for the transition between the Le-14 and the 108H.

The cabinets will be in two pieces using a clone for the top and a deeper base. I won't be using the volume in the top half of the cabinet. I want to hide the networks in there. That cabinet is a pain to clone compared to a simple rectangular box. Have the top panels cut no I just have to get them together, routed and semi-finished.

I will post more as I make progress.

Rob:)

Looks COOL Rob :coolness:

Keep us posted

Here's one of the rough cabinets still has to routed and a tweeter bezel made up for it. Now that's going to be fun:p

Rob:)

Looks better with the round overs done. They need to be hand sanded though to finish them. I used a 1/2" roundover bit. That looks right from the photo's I have. Anyone know if that is correct??

Rob:)

Hi Robb, was the crossover derived from the acoustical measurement of the driver?
How did you determine driver spacing on the front baffle?

thank's slxrti

Hello Slxtri

What I have posted are the voltage drives that are based on 8 ohm loads using the L250ti Jubilee crossover that was posted a couple of years ago. The crossover is a clone of the standard with the exception of the Woofers lowpass and lower midranges bandpass. The woofer is active and the midrange bandpass is both active and passive. The passive secton was tweeked to keep the same drive as the all passive network. The other 2 sections are the same as the original networks.

The driver spacing was based on the original speaker using photo's and a drawing posted that has the driver spacing from one edge and from the top/bottom of the cabinet.

Rob:)

Hi Robb, looking at the driver spacing I thought they may have been determine by the crossover freq, but I don’t think so

I noticed a step in slope @ 1.2k do you know the purpose?

slxrti

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I noticed a step in slope @ 1.2k do you know the purpose?

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Hello slxrti

To smooth the response. I have not powered anything up yet aside from impedance runs on the drivers. Attached is a link to an old thread where an in depth explanation is given for the network. It explains it better than I can.

Rob:)

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...etwork+diagram

Hi Robb, interesting insight into crossover design. I'm sure quite a bit of effort was expended in its execution.

Do you know which drivers are being used in you avatar?

slxrti

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Do you know which drivers are being used in you avatar?

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Sure do they are my 4344 Clones. 2235, 2122, 2425/2307 Aguaplased, 077's up top. They are biamped with a DX-1.

Rob:)

Well I couldn't resist and droped drivers in one of them. I have them sealed now I have to paint them. Not sure how I will finish them at this point or exactly how I will do the tweeter bezels. Have to get the crossovers wired up and take them for a spin.

Rob:)

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Originally Posted by Robh3606

Sure do they are my 4344 Clones. 2235, 2122, 2425/2307 Aguaplased, 077's up top. They are biamped with a DX-1.

Rob:)

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They sure look nice, I thought about using the same drivers except for the horn/driver and a 2227 for a low end.

How will do they image and how do they sound?

Slxrti

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They sure look nice, I thought about using the same drivers except for the horn/driver and a 2227 for a low end.

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Thanks, you planning on using a sub??

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How will do they image and how do they sound?

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Very nice they are definately keepers. They image OK not a lot of depth but are good side to side. Depends on what you want if imaging is very important then they may not be for you. They do alot of things right IMHO so they are a great reference speaker to have around and are fun to listen too.

Rob:)

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Originally Posted by Robh3606

Not sure how I will finish them at this point...

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If you don't mind black, Duratex is easy to apply, (with a roller), and good at covering up little things. 'Really rugged, too...

John

Nice project Rob !

I like your split cabinet approach .

Are the 108H(s) store-bought originals / or / did you make them up ( starting with 2118s ) & using the aquaplas that you have on hand ?

<> :)

[quote=Robh3606;213153]Thanks, you planning on using a sub??


Yes, I have a pair of sub 1500 for the low end.

I decided this based on the performance of my 4430's. They have several weakness’ (which you addressed in the 4344 clone), the lower midrange is course and the bass is not up to the horns performance level. The horn will throw a wide deep sound stage. Yet the bass has single note characteristic.

I still enjoy the 4430’s and prefer them over LSR32.

slxrti

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If you don't mind black, Duratex is easy to apply

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Hello John

Thanks I will check it out. I don't mind black at all.

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I like your split cabinet approach

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Hello Earl

Thanks well we will how well this works out. I have LE-14H-3 for the bottom cabinet. I don't want to take the cabinet shape all the way down because of the width. I have more depth to play with and don't have that much room. I am not sure how the aesthetics will work out with the base a different shape. Probably look like hell:D I also want the option of different "HF heads" this being one of them for my 2 way set-up.

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Are the 108H(s) store-bought originals / or / did you make them up ( starting with 2118s ) & using the aquaplas that you have on hand ?

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No I chickened out for these. I wanted the real deal so it could be a "real clone" performance wise. Except for the tweeters they are all new drivers. That's the main reason I copied the cabinet with the baffle width, driver spacing and angled baffle for the HF drivers. I can always set back the upper cabinet to keep the same VC distance between the woofer and the lower midrange.

Rob:)

Hi Rob

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No I chickened out for these. I wanted the real deal so it could be a "real clone" performance wise. Except for the tweeters they are all new drivers. That's the main reason I copied the cabinet with the baffle width, driver spacing and angled baffle for the HF drivers. I can always set back the upper cabinet to keep the same VC distance between the woofer and the lower midrange.

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Yes, that makes sense . The last time I looked, Harman was still selling the 108H at quite affordable prices / certainly low enough to preclude attempting a DIY clone made up from a 2118 .

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Thanks well we will how well this works out. I have LE-14H-3 for the bottom cabinet. I don't want to take the cabinet shape all the way down because of the width. I have more depth to play with and don't have that much room. I am not sure how the aesthetics will work out with the base a different shape. Probably look like hell I also want the option of different "HF heads" this being one of them for my 2 way set-up.

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I like all the models from within the le14 family of woofs, so I agree ( that to fully explore the various roles they can fill ) it's nice to house them in separate cabinets ( for portability ).

:)

Well here are the rings I have to cut the bevels in the side, jig them and cut angle to finish them.

Rob:)

I got the bevel fixture for the router table made. Just have to wait for the glue to dry and fixture the first ring inside. Going to be making several passes to take off the material in steps so actually cutting them should take a little while. I hope the weather holds.

Rob:bouncy:

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Originally Posted by Robh3606

I am not sure how the aesthetics will work out with the base a different shape. Probably look like hell:D


Rob:)

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I like a pretty speaker, but I like a great sounding speaker better. If you get a great sound, the aesthetics are secondary. :yes:

Now, if you were going to produce them for sale, then we know that looks come first to most consumers, but since these are for you, you don't need to compromise your design.

You're putting a lot into these; I'm sure you'll get a lot out. :thmbsup:

Here's the fixture in action and the rough rings. They still need some hand sanding to finish them.

Hello Titanium Dome

Thanks again for the Bezel measurements you gave me a while back. Wouldn't be doing this without them.

Rob:)

Cool...

Looking, 'er, um, good? :D

Nice work though... that kind of thing can get pretty scary if you aren't really patient and take shallow cuts.

I like nice sounding speakers too, but if the beast is ugly, I can't put in my room. I can't get through an entire album with my eyes closed. :D
Makes me think of that rather rude paper bag saying... but that would mess up your hearing anyway.;)

Rob, are you going to go for a piano black finish? Do you have access to spray equipment?


Widget

The finished speaker will probably be much prettier than it is in your head right now, Rob. :)
Interesting details of your work.
__________
Peter

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Originally Posted by Robh3606

Here's the fixture in action and the rough rings. They still need some hand sanding to finish them.

Hello Titanium Dome

Thanks again for the Bezel measurements you gave me a while back. Wouldn't be doing this without them.

Rob:)

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Rob,

Your project is inspiring me.. I bought a pair of 250Ti Limited Editions with some moisture damage at the very bottom of the cabinets. While they are completely usable as is and the damage is hard to see unless you are looking for it, I have been thinking of building new cabinets, partially to go to a wood finish but also to eliminate the cabinet issues.

The sound is wonderful. They are simply a great speaker.

Your tweeter bezel jig looks great. Are there any details you can share about the creation of the jig? Are you using the jig to taper the thickness of the bezel as well? Is that a 050Ti tweeter? The gold finish sets the Jubilee off.

Beautiful!

Thanks

Dan

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The sound is wonderful. They are simply a great speaker.

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Hello Dan

Thanks now you are inspiring me;) to get it done!

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Are there any details you can share about the creation of the jig?

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It's really a simple jig all you have to do is match the angle of the cabinet and make a work holder that is large enough to hold the piece and small enough to work on your table. That is the jig to taper the bezel. Once you have the angled side rail you just space them attach them and make a work holder to go in the middle.

One of the main problems doing this is I could not find a router bit with enough depth to bring the cut all the way down to the base of the stack. I have to use a filler material to complete the fillet toward the top of the cabinet. I would also change the stack a bit. I didn't realize just how much harder the Masonite is. I wouldn't use it as the base ring. Very hard to cut compared to the MDF. Works well up top though.

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Is that a 050Ti tweeter? The gold finish sets the Jubilee off.

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Yes I got them off E-Bay years ago. Someone was selling off Century Gold parts, there were 8 up for sale 3 pairs and 2 singles I got a pair and a single the rest went to another bidder. I was very lucky to get them as they are no longer available.

Here's another look before I started cutting

Rob:)

I managed to get the tweeter bezels on the cabinets and the first coat of filler to make up the gap to smooth the transition to the cabinet. Well somethings not quite right as the gap dimensions are a bit off at the end of the fillets. The driver position and heights are correct so that's the most important aspect but one of my "guess's", either the roundover on the cabinet edge or the 45 degrees for the bevel angle is off. I am fine with them as is but if anyone else goes for an exact copy your going to have to get both of those before hand.

Rob:)

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Originally Posted by Robh3606

I managed to get the tweeter bezels on the cabinets and the first coat of filler to make up the gap to smooth the transition to the cabinet. Well somethings not quite right as the gap dimensions are a bit off at the end of the fillets. The driver position and heights are correct so that's the most important aspect but one of my "guess's", either the roundover on the cabinet edge or the 45 degrees for the bevel angle is off. I am fine with them as is but if anyone else goes for an exact copy your going to have to get both of those before hand.

Rob:)

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Rob,

Perhaps in person it is more evident, but I am having a hard time seeing anything wrong that will be apparent post paint... They look great to me!

Just wait until you live with the final result.. They just don't do anything wrong. I love mine. However, I do have to admit I have thought of trying to charge couple the crossovers and changing the 104H and 035Tia to the XPL 200 drivers.. 093Ti etc OR the Yamaha NS-1000 beryllium mid and tweeters.. However, it's really hard to disturb anything that sounds so great. In fact, that is something I REALLY like about your approach.. the separate cabinet for the mids and highs...

Hello Dan

I did a quick spray coat to see what they would look like. Still need lots of finish work but they are just fine for now. I need to finish the networks and take some measurements to see how they look.

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In fact, that is something I REALLY like about your approach.. the separate cabinet for the mids and highs...

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I have been taking about doing this for a while now, I already have two other HF heads in the works. I really want to get these up and running though. I am curious to see how they sound.

Hello Widget

I don't know about Piano Black. Seems like a very unforgiving finish of the substrate. These are just a quick black spray and it shows up every thing. Have you done that finish??

Rob:)

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Originally Posted by Robh3606

I don't know about Piano Black. Seems like a very unforgiving finish of the substrate. These are just a quick black spray and it shows up every thing. Have you done that finish??

Rob:)

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Piano Black is NOT easy. You need to seal and sand several times. Then comes layers of color, lightly sanded. Then I would suggest a few coats of Polyurethane to give depth. It is tedious. Beautiful when done right.

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Originally Posted by Robh3606

Hello Widget

I don't know about Piano Black. Seems like a very unforgiving finish of the substrate. These are just a quick black spray and it shows up every thing. Have you done that finish??

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Yes it does and yes it does and yes I have... it can take a hundred hours of love, but when you are done it is quite spectacular... and if you do a half-assed job it'll look spectacularly bad. :D


Widget

Hello Widget

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it can take a hundred hours of love, but when you are done it is quite spectacular...

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Hmm well that settles that. I don't have that much time to finish cabinets. I will have to find another finish that may not be as spectacular but still looks good.

Well it's raining here big time so I was able to get a set of driver measurements mounted into the cabinet. Took them at 1M at tweeter level. I then changed them to text files and inported them into LEAP. I have found that LEAP is a good tool and is reliable for predicting the outcome. I like to use the simulations as a sanity check to make sure I am on the right track.

This curve is from averaged measurements to see if the network, attenuation, and baffle placement look good. So far it looks good. Now I just need a week;) to get the networks built.

Rob:)

Just for fun I decided to see what the waterfall plots looked like for the 3 drivers measured over the frequency ranges they are used in the system. They look damn good. The 108H was a real surprise. I would say the aguaplas is certainly doing what it is supposed to be doing. The first 2 are the 108H the second are the 104H and the last is the 050 Gold tweeters.

Rob:)

050's

Rob:)

Hi Rob,

By what measure are these good plots? I.e., are these time and amplitude
scales (and resolution) appropriate for these type of devices... That there
appear almost no time-lingering resonances in the plots, I can see; I'm
assuming that is the merit being judged. So my question is, would other,
less capable devices appear any different in these plots? If you or someone
else have particular experience with these plots and can just say that these
are good ... well, OK :)

...or I can not be lazy and make some comparative measurements myself
(don't have CLIO, but Mac-based FuzzMeasure which is also reasonably
capable). I should just mount up some 104H-2's and do this. :p

Really nice to see this project coming along. :applaud:

Hello Grumpy

What makes them good is how quickly they decay and how clean the plots look. The time scales are adjusted so you don't loose resolution and waterfalls can go low enough. The lower you go the longer the time window needs to be. The software will automatically limit how low the plot goes depending on the length of the time window. So if you look at the 108H the window is 13msec and they get shorter as you go up in frequency and change driver ranges.

Here is a plot of a 2435 on a PTH1010 and a 2425 on a 2344. You can see that the plot for the 2435 combination looks better than the 2425 as an example. Same time and frequency range.

The $64,000 question is just how audible any differences that come up in the plots really are.

Rob :)

Thanks Rob, the compression driver/horn plots are closer to what I'm used to seeing.
The direct radiator plots were so clean in comparison, it made me wonder if I was
missing something :).

Correlating the plots to audible differences or artifacts is probably the topic of an AES
paper or two. Whether this type of plot is useful for lower frequency, direct radiator
measurements, is what I'll change my question to... Is it useful? or is there just typically
nothing to see?

I've seen cabinet resonances show up, on wide-band waterfall plots, in the lower
frequency range, which seems like a useful enough reason to run them, including
that range.

These graphs are really interesting, thanks for sharing Rob!
Where those diaphramgs aquaplassed?
Another question is how much of these time delays come from the horn itself. The 2344 is said to have ripples between 1k and 2k (can be call them HOMs?). http://www.audioheritage.org/html/pr...bl/4430-35.htm
That would also be interesting to see the same graph for a H9800!

Rob,

The plots you posted look really promising. I was a little surprised by the dip from 7K-10K on the 050Ti, but as far as controlled decay, they look great. I never saw one before on the 108H.. very nice!

You don't happen to have a 095Ti/093Ti or 046Ti from a XPL200 that you can run, do you?

Got the crossover parts laid put just have to figure out how to fit them on to the pcb's. Lot's of caps going CC and the bandpass for the 108H has large values.

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You don't happen to have a 095Ti/093Ti or 046Ti from a XPL200 that you can run, do you?

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One of these days I will measure them and post the plots.

Rob:)

Rob, have you got them running yet?

Hello Cosmos

Not yet I am slowly moving along. Combined with a CC network in Solens and the low dcr values for the larger coils the networks are quite a bit bulkier and down right heavier than I imagined. Basicaly I need to get more cabinet work finished to see how the networks will load in. It won't fit on 3 double sided PCB's as it is now so the 160uf capacitor bank and one of the 2 largest coils will have to be off the boards mounted to the enclosure.

I am also going to spike and mass load the upper cabinet so it is isolated from the bass cabinet and may be using neoprene on the baffle like in the XPL series. I think I found a local source for the "correct" material. I have to get a sample and see what it looks like.

I have a couple of the boards finished so once I figure out how it will all go together I should be able to get them up fast once it all comes together.

Thanks for your interest

Rob:)

I managed to get all the network boards built and ended up using 4 seperate PCB's as their size is a real surprise. They have to be measured to see if the voltage drives are correct. Still need to add the DC bias but I can see if they are correct without it. Have to make the new boards for the DX-1 next. Slowly it's finaly starting to come together. At the rate I am going maybe by X-Mas I will have them actually working:blink:

Rob:)

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Originally Posted by Robh3606

I managed to get all the network boards built and ended up using 4 seperate PCB's as their size is a real surprise. They have to be measured to see if the voltage drives are correct. Still need to add the DC bias but I can see if they are correct without it. Have to make the new boards for the DX-1 next. Slowly it's finaly starting to come together. At the rate I am going maybe by X-Mas I will have them actually working:blink:

Rob:)

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Good Lord! When you look at the schematic you can see there are a lot of components, but it just takes on a new dimension seeing pictures. The layout and detail work looks superb.

Best of luck..

When Guido made my XO , he used the "new" style TIBQ. I have a an additional board which sits in the bottom of each speaker w/many Caps on it. Since yours are from scratch I would guess all of your componets are larger than originals , it is large for a XO !

I enjoy following this thread

Mark

It's taken me alot longer to finally get here than I thought. I should have the first test speaker up and running this afternoon. Can't wait to see what one actually sounds like. I don't have the real bottoms built so I have surogates for now but at least I can hear the top half and see if the crossovers actually work or not.

Rob:)

Wow! That's really nice Rob! :yes:

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Originally Posted by 4313B

Wow! That's really nice Rob! :yes:

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Finally!!! What am I saying... I am further behind than you. :)

Looking good though.


Widget

Way cool! :coolness:

Very nice work Rob!

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Originally Posted by Mr. Widget

Finally!!! What am I saying... I am further behind than you. :)

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You both have me beat... I'm sitting here still screwing around with 2235H recones.

yes... very nice work! and inspiring/motivational too :)

Thanks guys for the kind words! Well I finally have one up and working. I have an asymmetrical pair up but I must say it sure does sound nice!! I don't have the batteries in yet just trying to see if it all works.

So far so good. I was a bit worried about how well the reworked bandpass filter on the 108H would sum with the DX-1. I just used my RTA to get things working and phased properly and it all looks good. I have a nice flat curve through the upper and lower sections of that filter. Thank goodness for that! :D

I have to get the other one up tomorrow.

Rob:)

Got my pair running. Damn they sound nice!! I have to power up the networks it all seems to be working.

Rob:)

So shut up and listen to the music already. :applaud:

I am envious... I wish you weren't 2,900 miles away. :banghead:


Widget

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Originally Posted by Robh3606

Got my pair running. Damn they sound nice!! I have to power up the networks it all seems to be working.

Rob:)

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Rob,

That's awesome! I bet they sound great and you're an inspiration.

The original owner of my 250Ti-LE had them somewhere where the bottoms got damp. Therefore, I am planning on building new cabinets. What would you have done differently? Any suggestions?

Thanks and congrats again!

Thanks cosmos.

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had them somewhere where the bottoms got damp. Therefore, I am planning on building new cabinets. What would you have done differently? Any suggestions?

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Yes there is. It was straight forward once the angles were figured out. You have a tremendous advantage of having stock boxes to copy.

For one thing my round-overs are probably too small. I only have a 1/4 router so the max I could get was a 1/2 " round over. I am thinking it should be a 5/8 or 3/4. Need a real 1/2 shaft router for that size bits.

When I made up the Bezels I used different layered materials. That bit me in the butt. It made them more difficult to shape when doing the angle cutting and made final sanding much more difficult. I ended up having 3 materials, the MDF, Masonite and filler all sanding at a different rates due to material hardness. It had to be carefully hand sanded.

Don't use different materials when you do the stacks to make the bezels. In hind-site I should have thought of it but I didn't.

Same issue cutting the 45 degree angle into the bezel. Needed a larger 1/2 shank router to swing an larger bit to make a deeper cut. Would have made finishing on the cabinet much easier.

Other than that I had a good drawing set and help from people here when I asked. I had a lot of fun doing it as well. Actually those cabinets are not complete. They need backs and proper cubbys for the crossover, additional bracing and eventually any open spaces will be foam filled to help get them as vibration free and possible. They will be gutted as soon as the weather permits to drag the table saw out. I still have the bottoms to build. Looking at the open backs, what a mess!!

Rob:)

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Originally Posted by Robh3606

For one thing my round-overs are probably too small. I only have a 1/4 router so the max I could get was a 1/2 " round over. I am thinking it should be a 5/8 or 3/4. Need a real 1/2 shaft router for that size bits.

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Naw... I think your smaller radii edges look better... more contemporary.


Widget

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Naw... I think your smaller radii edges look better... more contemporary.

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Thanks Widget

I like them that way too. Would be nice to know what they are on the originals though. I have had them for about a week now and they are really very nice sounding speakers. I am glad I built them. One of these days I will do some measurements, they look fine on an RTA, but I am having too much fun just listening to them.

Rob:)

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Originally Posted by cosmos

Rob,

That's awesome! I bet they sound great and you're an inspiration.

The original owner of my 250Ti-LE had them somewhere where the bottoms got damp. Therefore, I am planning on building new cabinets. What would you have done differently? Any suggestions?

Thanks and congrats again!

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Cosmos from what you say it is only bottom damage to your 250's. Just a thought but why do you not fillow Rob's example and make a modular version. Cut the top of of the existing pair and build some new bottoms to match.
Saves all that awkward business around the tweet :D

Very good work Rob!

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Originally Posted by Robh3606

For one thing my round-overs are probably too small. I only have a 1/4 router so the max I could get was a 1/2 " round over. I am thinking it should be a 5/8 or 3/4.

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Yes, the 5/8 to 3/4 inch round-over is close to the way that my 250Ti original teak cabinets are finished. It looks like JBL used 3/4 by 3/4 inch stock for the corners and then rounded them from one edge around to the opposite edge. The 250Ti Owners Manual mentions that the rounded edges of the baffle are designed to minimize diffraction effects.

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Originally Posted by Robh3606

Thanks cosmos.



Yes there is. It was straight forward once the angles were figured out. You have a tremendous advantage of having stock boxes to copy.

For one thing my round-overs are probably too small. I only have a 1/4 router so the max I could get was a 1/2 " round over. I am thinking it should be a 5/8 or 3/4. Need a real 1/2 shaft router for that size bits.

When I made up the Bezels I used different layered materials. That bit me in the butt. It made them more difficult to shape when doing the angle cutting and made final sanding much more difficult. I ended up having 3 materials, the MDF, Masonite and filler all sanding at a different rates due to material hardness. It had to be carefully hand sanded.

Don't use different materials when you do the stacks to make the bezels. In hind-site I should have thought of it but I didn't.

Same issue cutting the 45 degree angle into the bezel. Needed a larger 1/2 shank router to swing an larger bit to make a deeper cut. Would have made finishing on the cabinet much easier.

Other than that I had a good drawing set and help from people here when I asked. I had a lot of fun doing it as well. Actually those cabinets are not complete. They need backs and proper cubbys for the crossover, additional bracing and eventually any open spaces will be foam filled to help get them as vibration free and possible. They will be gutted as soon as the weather permits to drag the table saw out. I still have the bottoms to build. Looking at the open backs, what a mess!!

Rob:)

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They look great. Thanks for the tips.

I do think I will do a modular approach as well, although I hate to loose the extra cubic feet in the top of the cabinets. Also, I plan to change the tuning to extend the bass a little and lower the hump at 50 - 60 Hz or so..

They are ultimately a remarkable speaker. Congrats!

I would like to ask what ever happened to these speakers?

Mark

Hello Mark

They are still here. Once I built the Berylium based Array 1400 clones they took a back seat so to speak. It's been a while since I had them up and running. I still have my XPL clones as well so the plan is to get them set up again. I wanted to use a pair of LE-14-3 as the bottoms but all I have available are 121A's which actually are quite nice. One of these days they will be making music again just have to get it done.

I am taking a break after 10+ years of doing this. A little burnt if you know what I mean, needed a break. Winter has been cold as hell too, doesn't help when all your wood cutting is done outside and everything is covered with snow and ice.

Rob:)

Not to be snarky - but didn't Sandy do a dance over your place as well?
Kinda thought you were one of the lucky ones from that storm ...

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Originally Posted by Robh3606

Hello Mark

They are still here. Once I built the Berylium based Array 1400 clones they took a back seat so to speak. It's been a while since I had them up and running. I still have my XPL clones as well so the plan is to get them set up again. I wanted to use a pair of LE-14-3 as the bottoms but all I have available are 121A's which actually are quite nice. One of these days they will be making music again just have to get it done.

I am taking a break after 10+ years of doing this. A little burnt if you know what I mean, needed a break. Winter has been cold as hell too, doesn't help when all your wood cutting is done outside and everything is covered with snow and ice.

Rob:)

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Hello Heather

Yes it did and yes I was. I didn't even loose power. Just had a tree topped, ended up in my pool, and had minor damage to my home. Not sure why you brought up Sandy. Snarky??

Rob:)

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Originally Posted by Robh3606

Hello Heather

Yes it did and yes I was. I didn't even loose power. Just had a tree topped, ended up in my pool, and had minor damage to my home. Not sure why you brought up Sandy. Snarky??

Rob:)

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Thought you were in the midst of that area - Good to hear it wasn't anything significant.
It was the thought that you might have been busy away from speakers and such
- life intrudes, as it were ... Not to be snarky at all ...

Keep me in mind if decide you have too many other projects to deal with. Don't need no stinking woofers:applaud:

Mark

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Robh3606

Hello Mark

They are still here. Once I built the Berylium based Array 1400 clones they took a back seat so to speak. It's been a while since I had them up and running. I still have my XPL clones as well so the plan is to get them set up again. I wanted to use a pair of LE-14-3 as the bottoms but all I have available are 121A's which actually are quite nice. One of these days they will be making music again just have to get it done.

I am taking a break after 10+ years of doing this. A little burnt if you know what I mean, needed a break. Winter has been cold as hell too, doesn't help when all your wood cutting is done outside and everything is covered with snow and ice.

Rob:)

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+1 on the Arrays :)

Since I built my array Mg clones, I am even selling my 250's and all of my vintage JBL's because I just don't listen to them.

Hello Heather

I didn't think it was snarky at all just didn't make the connection. After doing this every day for over 12 years I am burnt. Geez I have a killer set of componenets to build another system I have just been sitting on for months. Just can't seem to get the motivation going. All in good time I have walked away before and eventually came back.

Hello Mark

I will keep you in mind if I decide to sell or part them out.

Hello Junior JBL

They are a tuff act to follow. That said I purchased a set of Revel Performa F206's that I have biamped through my preamp with a PS1400 sub. I have this up in my livingroom and I must say I am very happy with them. For the money WOW. They really do sound nice.

Rob:)

Thanks for the reply Rob!!

I am with you on the Revel's. They do sound nice. I also understand the pile o' gear just waiting!! :(

I can populate them no problem, good way to use my spare drivers after all these years of holding on to them

Mark

ps and I want a snarky discount lol

Place holder bringing them back on line again.

So I don't have to find the thread again!

Rob:)