Great thread, really nice....please, I hope you show details of the veneering process!
russellc
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Great thread, really nice....please, I hope you show details of the veneering process!
russellc
I will get there Russell but I am not big on this and will take advice. I mostly use laminate ie Formica and such but real wood is another thing. Since you mention it anyone who can give any input as to the pitfalls please pitch in.
My main concern is the turn over at the rounded edge. The veneer runs horizontally and should just fold over the round over BUT ????? !!!!!
:)
I don't understand why the roller guide, specifically the one you show with the bearing at the shank, wouldn't work to cut the 2405 hole using the flange as template.
Seems that would work, at least for a finish cut. :dont-know
Me, I use hole saws, as I don't have a router....
For that particular cutter---- The roller is the same size as the cutter blade dia.---------- it can plunge all the way through the stock BUT it is too hard going for it to cut lateraly once it is through. Hence one has to work a near hole but not up to the template until enough is cut away that a blank drops out. This will leave a trim cut ideally 1/8 - 3/16. This you do with the roller on the mounting flange. It is really only clean up that this tool does. You could do the same by cutting a circ. hole just less than required and then using that same cutter to clean up.
The great strength of the guided cutters is that they exactly copy what they are following and the less greedy you are in the cut the tidier the cut is.
In industry they will always make a rough cut and then a finish cut even with CNC machines.
Howz the whisky tastin comin along ?
As you bay area geezers all know it all comes from the sky. My personal recommendation in the same zone ie island whisky would be this if you can find it or rather from here. :D Very unique, water is a must:D
As you bay area geezers all know it all comes from the sky. My personal recommendation in the same zone ie island whisky would be this if you can find it or rather from here. :D Very unique, water is a must:D
http://www.bruichladdich.com/web_cam.htm
re alignment. Internal is 14 x 17 1/2 x 32 minus components. I suppose it is a little less than a B380 and with no BX63. to help.
I would reckon to tune to 30Hz what do you think ?
Win ISD says for say 115 litres at 30Hz giving a nice 'knee' with a 4" port i need 153mm ie 6". Do you have any better ideas. I know you have been doon this path before.
BB6P calls your gross internal volume 4.54 cuft. It deducts for the woofer displacement, and I took out another 0.2 cuft for the horn and HF drivers, for a net internal volume of 4.15 cuft.
It suggests a tuning of 26 Hz, which is B380, and too low in my experience. Giskard has recommended 30 Hz, as I recall, and I don't think you can lose with that. F3 = 39.5 Hz and F10 = 26 Hz.
4" duct at 5" long, it says. Typical BB6P lengths come out a bit long when the actual box frequency is measured.
If I've deducted too much for driver volumes, changing that to 0.1 cuft, net 4.25 cuft, the duct becomes 4.864"....
:p
Sorry to be dense, but could you please describe how the tweet hole was cut? I am not following, sorry!
thanks,
Russellc
The slot tweeter has a mounting flange that can be detatched from the body.
The centre hole of this piece is perhaps1/16" bigger overall dia than the snout of the tweet ie an ideal size ( not surprisingly ) that can be used as a guide for the type of cutter shown ( with the roller up at the shank ).
However it is obvious that until the roller is down deep enough to contact the flange/ template then you run the risk of contacting the flange with the cutter blade.
In the first instance I tried plunging the cutter down to a depth that would allow the roller to run inside the flange and then tried to cut as guided by the roller. However the cut was too heavy to be sensible ( 3/4" ply at one go ) and the cutter was screaming and protesting. Pulled it out and tackled it another way this time ( using the same cutter ) freehand cutting 1/8 depth at a time in a small circle just less than the size of the flange.
Eventually broke through and a small blank fell away leaving a rough excess around the periphery. This was then cleaned off using the same cutter with the roller in contact with the flange . If you are not comfy with this the you are probably better getting a circular hole cutter of the appropriate size.
I dont like them much as they can tend to be a bit eccentric and the first contact with the material can be a bit messy
:)