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Niklas Nord
10-13-2003, 02:31 PM
What is the best way to get rid of the old gluish parts,
and parts of the cone itself from the basket? spider parts..

itīs easy to rip it apart, but to clean out the rest is a
time consuming work indeed..

4313B
10-13-2003, 02:37 PM
M.E.K. (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) is used to remove the bostik glue.

boputnam
10-13-2003, 02:51 PM
MEK, as Giskard suggested, and I also make heavy use of an Xacto knife, with #10 blade (curved, second from right in pic).

Scrape...

Scrape...

Scrape...

Guido
10-14-2003, 03:31 AM
Hey Niklas

I have just finished the reconing of two 2235H's I recently bought from a crook which instaled crap cones inside :die:

I went with Acetone as MEK is hard to get here in Germany. The finish I did with a wire brush with copper wires.

Worked excellent:D

John
10-14-2003, 09:09 AM
Was that bostik glue used at the spider to moter joint and coil former to cone joint??? Or just at the outer surround to basket??? One final ? where can i buy that glue???

GordonW
10-14-2003, 07:55 PM
I could be wrong, but I wouldn't be inclined to use Bostik glue on a voice coil joint. First off, it's marginally flexible- you want the "iron grip of God" between the voice coil and the cone and spider. Secondly, I would wonder how it would survive, at several hundred degrees, in a high-power woofer motor...

I would be inclined to either use hardening epoxy (JB Weld, Liquid Steel, etc) or accelerated gel cyanoacrylate (ie, superglue gel with an spray-on accelerator, you can find this stuff usually at specialty woodworking supply stores) on these joints to a voice coil. I've been around lots of PA speaker rebuilds, and have seen those glues put through what resembles the Fires of Hell, and the glue survived. Sometimes when the coil formers and cones didn't.. as in FIRE... :eek:

Regards,
Gordon.
speaking from hard-learned lessons here...