Crossover Mounting Pictures

[toddalin]

For those who have been following my crossover thread, I noted that I was going to gut the N8000s and mount the new crossovers to the backs of the existing cases. Pics are included that show how the crossovers were mounted to wooden supports that are then fastened to the chassis. All hardware is brass and the circuit boards stand-offs are copper wire crimps.

BTW, the components in the N8000 are certainly not up to the quality of the components that will replace them. For any that care, the dcr on the two chokes are 2.8 and 2.9 ohms. The crossover also has the 20 ohm resistors across the horn and tweeter outputs and these can't be more than 5 watts' rating tops.

I'll check out the function one more time and give the components a little shot of hot glue to secure them from rattling before final installation.

http://www.largescaleonline.com/eimages/lsolpics/Team_Member_Pics/toddalin/xovermount1.jpg

http://www.largescaleonline.com/eimages/lsolpics/Team_Member_Pics/toddalin/xovermount2.jpg

[Zilch]

But, ... but, ... do they WORK? :p

Maybe a moderator could consolidate the three (or four?) threads into one so folks could follow it from design through construction to completion? At least, put links in, please.

May we also know the final schematic, parts list, and costs?

[toddalin]

Well sure they work, but until I mount them in the cabinets, the bass first passes through these then the N1200 so I don't think spectrum analyzer testing is appropriate yet. Besides, there is a nice big hole in the cabinet back where these will reside once mounted. The horn and tweeter are nice and crisp.:bouncy:

If I were to try a schematic, it would be drawn by hand and get messy very quickly. Parts list and costs are included (if they are legible). Total cost to PE was $347.42 and with hardware, silver solder, etc, total was about $360-$370 for the three of them.

http://www.largescaleonline.com/eimages/lsolpics/Team_Member_Pics/toddalin/invoice1.jpg


http://www.largescaleonline.com/eimages/lsolpics/Team_Member_Pics/toddalin/invoice2.jpg



But, ... but, ... do they WORK? :p

Maybe a moderator could consolidate the three (or four?) threads into one so folks could follow it from design through construction to completion? At least, put links in, please.

May we also know the final schematic, parts list, and costs?

[pelly3s]

todd they look great. now for pictures of the whole box

[JuniorJBL]

todd they look great. now for pictures of the whole box

:yes:

[glen]

I really appreciate the extra work you've gone to just to keep the BACK of your speaker looking stock!:applaud:

More pictures by all means!

[toddalin]

ARRRGGGG!!!!:biting: Couldn't finaggle the thing through the hole because of the big cap! I thought I could angle it in, but the cap presented too big of an obstruction. Ended up mounting the board to the inside bottom of the cabinet, and ran the wires up to the old can so the back still looks stock and there is still access to all the component wires if I wanted to biamp. Would have been nice to be a slide out affair, and I could have mounted the board perpendicular to the can on L-brackets, but at that point I was pretty frustrated.:blink: Anywho, one cabinet now has one and it does have better air, is crisper, and has better articulation than the other cabinet.., but not earthshaking different.

I'll have to see what the analyzer has to say.

[JuniorJBL]

Maybe you could mount the board a little to one end instead of center.

Then you could put more of the crossover in before you start to tilt it towards the box?

:hmm:


Or you could mount the crossovers outside the box and tweek :nutz: all you want!

[Zilch]

OR, you could mount the board to the back of the can from inside the cabinet.... :banghead:

[toddalin]

Yes, I also realived that if I were to mount the board lower on the can, I probaly could have managed it in achieving a greater angle. But I was pretty frustrated at that point.:biting:


Maybe you could mount the board a little to one end instead of center.

Then you could put more of the crossover in before you start to tilt it towards the box?

:hmm:


Or you could mount the crossovers outside the box and tweek :nutz: all you want!

[Zilch]

Project continues here:

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=9176

Project begins here:

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=8507