jbl 2245 H

[gene]

Hello I just bought a jbl 2245 H woofer from vintage tube amp or uncle spot speaker repair. the problem I am having is the woofer look the same as the other one but the color is gray kind of orange -redish .the surround is not foam its the same surround thats on the 4312 woofer. what about the low end responce will this effect any thing:blink:

[pelly3s]

well if its not foam its not a 2245. can you post a picture of it?

[gene]

on back of the woofer it does read 2245 H . i have no question about that, just the surround and the funny color of the woofer:blink:

[pelly3s]

its probably a 2240 kit in a 2245 frame.

[pelly3s]

cant say too much about the color though that could be a couple of reasons

[gene]

I paid 225.00 the frame and the magnet is in great shape . I just like to be sure of the cone. I am going to have the woofer refoam and I will call jbl tech surport and ask them about color of the woofer. I have no grill in front of my speakers and I paid to much damm money . The color of the woofer doesnt bother me I just want them to have the same freq responce and that good stuff

[pelly3s]

look on the back of the cone and there should be white writing telling you what cone kit it is

[gene]

my speaker set up.2404 h- 2425 h with 2344a biradial horn -2202h -2245 H . CROSSOVER 250/1200/5000. CAB IS CUSTOM ABOUT 12.5 CUB FT. I try to post a picture of my speakers , but so far no luck any input

[edgewound]

Could be an aftermarket recone....like Pelly said, what's the writing on the back of the cone? A 2240 has a "double m-roll" surround, 2213(4312) has an "accordian" surround. Maybe it's a re-surround with with accordian cloth?

I'd be irritated too. What really irritates me is "audio" people taking advantage customers with bad, wrong or misleading info....but I guess every industry has that :(

[Zilch]

You bought a "Not" 2245H. Get your money back or a major refund on the purchase price....

[gene]

Thanks guys for your info . Edgewound you were right the surround is a double M-surround. like on the 2240......Zilch the frame is a 2245H But not the recone kit:banghead:

[edgewound]

Thanks guys for your info . Edgewound you were right the surround is a double M-surround. like on the 2240......Zilch the frame is a 2245H But not the recone kit:banghead:

Hi Gene...

Sounds like the speaker was either in an outside environment, or exposed to direct sunlight...they get that sort-of orangish greyish lookish to them when exposed to the elements. I's not uncommon to see 2245's reconed with 2240 recone kits for live sound app's. The 2245 is pretty easy to drive out of the gap with live sound if the user isn't using a steep hi pass filter to prevent unloading below the port's Hemholtz (tuning) frequency.

[gene]

I just finish talking to the guy name ron who sold me the speaker. I told him, this is not a 2245H recone kit. I spoke about the surround double m -roll.instead of the surround foam.he told me thats what they sent him from the factory ,but he will recone it for free:applaud: Thanks gene

[edgewound]

I just finish talking to the guy name ron who sold me the speaker. I told him, this is not a 2245H recone kit. I spoke about the surround double m -roll.instead of the surround foam.he told me thats what they sent him from the factory ,but he will recone it for free:applaud: Thanks gene
Yeah, right...he doesn't know the difference between a 2240 and 2245? Hmmm:hmm:

Gene....

Ask him if he's JBL Authorized Service...you can check the JBL Website here:
http://www.jblproservice.com/service/index.html

When the speaker is reconed, request to see the cone kit and receive the box that the recone kit came in...the kit's cone/coil/spider comes preassembled in a box large enough for an 18" driver with the JBL logo printed in orange and a barcode label on the corner of the box that say's "C8R2245H". We gotta keep these guys honest. I've run into numerous reconers that claim to be factory authorized when they aren't. When questioned, they then say "we use the same parts the factory uses"....don't fall for it.

[gene]

Edgewound on the back of the cone , 8cr was stamp but I could not read any thing else.

[gene]

The name of the company is uncle spot speaker repair-vintage tube amp.adress is 1136 north.carpenter rd ,suite#3 Modesto, ca 95351. He said the company name which I forgot but I belive it starts with a- W . iF any one knows were to buy recone kit from a company that begins with a-w:blink: Now I have to spend about 70.00 for a round trip to his adress than to mine in woodbridge va. Which is about a half an hour ride from washington,dc. so he can put the right cone in this driver

[johnaec]

He said the company name which I forgot but I belive it starts with a - W Probably a Waldom recone kit - definitely not quite up to JBL specs...

John

[edgewound]

The name of the company is uncle spot speaker repair-vintage tube amp.adress is 1136 north.carpenter rd ,suite#3 Modesto, ca 95351. He said the company name which I forgot but I belive it starts with a- W . iF any one knows were to buy recone kit from a company that begins with a-w:blink: Now I have to spend about 70.00 for a round trip to his adress than to mine in woodbridge va. Which is about a half an hour ride from washington,dc. so he can put the right cone in this driver

If he represented it as all original JBL parts, you should get a refund. If you bought it "as is"...I'm afraid you don't have much recourse. I hope it works out for you.

[gene]

Thanks agin for all of info. edgewound gave me a jbl service center web site. they have a bunch in va and md. I will take it to one of the service center in my area and have it recone.:applaud:

[scott fitlin]

Probably a Waldom recone kit - definitely not quite up to JBL specs...

JohnYup, Waldom is the name, and they are cheaper, and so is the sound you get from them.

[gene]

By the way Johnaec ......Waldom is the name of the company he toid me he order the recone kit from Thanks.:p

[John]

For what it's worth I have talked to a few guys that have used the after market 2245 kits and they have claimed that they sounded just as good, In fact didn't someone do some testing on a aftermarket recone and state that the specs were correct???

By the way for a JBL recone kit you are looking at $200 plus:blah:

[slxrti]

Yup, Waldom is the name, and they are cheaper, and so is the sound you get from them.

I had a pair of 2235 with after market kit's, they sounded better than the original 2235 cones. I tested them in a 8 cubic foot box. There was less boom and were very smooth.

slxrti

[LE15-Thumper]

Violie: Clearly Foam surround
http://www.lansingheritage.org/images/jbl/specs/pro-comp/2245/page1.jpg

[mvaldes]

I've just bought two 2245H used

The original owner say they has been reconed few years ago by an authorized JBL dealer.
I can't say if they are original or not. Any suggestion ?
here are some pics

first picture is a particular of the cones. There is a small color difference. Both have foam surround
second picture is a details of the back. The color difference is real. The darker one have SN N. 32605, while the other is 15215. Is it possible that this difference in the basket color is due to a different age ?
third picture is a detail of what has been written on the cone (backside). Both speaker have the same
finally last picture is a label that only one of the 2245 have

Is it normal to find speakers with these differences ? Are these original recone kits ?

[edgewound]

I've just bought two 2245H used

The original owner say they has been reconed few years ago by an authorized JBL dealer.
I can't say if they are original or not. Any suggestion ?
here are some pics

first picture is a particular of the cones. There is a small color difference. Both have foam surround
second picture is a details of the back. The color difference is real. The darker one have SN N. 32605, while the other is 15215. Is it possible that this difference in the basket color is due to a different age ?
third picture is a detail of what has been written on the cone (backside). Both speaker have the same
finally last picture is a label that only one of the 2245 have

Is it normal to find speakers with these differences ? Are these original recone kits ?

Yes...It looks like yours are genuine JBL. Aquaplas on back of cone, and the writing from the production line. The older 2245's are grey, newer are black.

The sticker on the grey one is with the "J" number is a production code....is fairly current.

[John]

That is the first time I have seen a grey 2245, that's got to be rare??? I have a pair of 2202H mid drivers in grey but no big deal as I have seen that a lot over the years.;)

[gene]

This lansing heritage web site has a bunch of awesome guys.......If you dont know something about jbl, ask and you shall find your answer on this awesome web site. thanks Gene Minniefield:applaud:

[johnaec]

That is the first time I have seen a grey 2245, that's got to be rare???The one I sold a few months ago was gray. The cone also had white aquaplas on the back, (it was an older recone kit).

John

[edgewound]

FYI....here's a JBL 2245H recone kit. All JBL recone kits come in this stage of pre-assembly....and all service center units come in their own box. This is to give you some info when shopping for a recone so you know how the parts are furnished from the factory. The only unassembled parts JBL will sell separate from a recone kit is the dust cap and the trim gasket (either rubber or composite latex/cork). Notice the writing on the back of the cone...it's the model number for the driver... in this case 2245H and the initials of the QC person on the assembly line. Genuine JBL recone kits are not available as separate voice coil, spider and cone. I hope this caveat helps you to make an informed choice as whether or not you opt for factory or aftermarket parts and assembly.

[John]

[QUOTE=johnaec]The one I sold a few months ago was gray. The cone also had white aquaplas on the back, (it was an older recone kit).

WOW that would make it triple rare!!! :applaud:

[John]

Hey that looks to be one hell of a coil on that kit:applaud:

[Flodstroem]

Hi edgewound.
Nice pics. Have a question regarding front or rear mount foam surrounds at these speakers. I have a pair and one of them has the foam surround mounted at the front of the cone. Is it possible that this is an original JBL mount or could it be a re-foamed speaker. Did JBL ever mount the foam at the front of 2245H?
I know that some of the LE14 had a front mounted foam surround but anyone else speaker model?

If it is not an original foam surround mount, any suggestions? (what about the alignment etc....), re-cone it?

Regards :o:

[edgewound]

Hi edgewound.
Nice pics. Have a question regarding front or rear mount foam surrounds at these speakers. I have a pair and one of them has the foam surround mounted at the front of the cone. Is it possible that this is an original JBL mount or could it be a re-foamed speaker. Did JBL ever mount the foam at the front of 2245H?
I know that some of the LE14 had a front mounted foam surround but anyone else speaker model?

If it is not an original foam surround mount, any suggestions? (what about the alignment etc....), re-cone it?

Regards :o:

To my knowledge JBL never put the surround on the front of the 2245H cone...probably a refoam. I'd recone it to get it right, because cosmetically the cone will be ruined. I think I've seen some early LE14's with Lansaloy surrounds mounted to the front and maybe some LE8T but I'm not certain on that.

[johnaec]

I think I've seen some early LE14's with Lansaloy surrounds mounted to the front and maybe some LE8T but I'm not certain on that.As far as I know all LE14A/s and C's have the surround glued to the front of the cone. 'Not sure about the newer LE14 series...

John

[Zilch]

'Not sure about the newer LE14 series....LE14H-3 butyl surround is attached to the rear of the cone here....

[4313B]

As far as I know all LE14A/s and C's have the surround glued to the front of the cone. 'Not sure about the newer LE14 series...

JohnI've never seen an LE14A kit with the surround glued to the front. I've never reconed an LE14A that had the surround glued to the front of the cone. None of my new LE14A's came with surrounds glued to the front of the cone. I've only seen a couple hundred over the years though. I doubt it's been more than three hundred.

[Flodstroem]

Thanks for the information edgewound.

It seems that I had to re-cone this unit to have it look like the same as the other one of my 2245H pair.

The 2245H re-cone-kit you took the pics of, its not for sale, is it? :D
(if yes, maybe you could send me a PM for details). :cheers:

Regards

[toddalin]

As far as I know all LE14A/s and C's have the surround glued to the front of the cone. 'Not sure about the newer LE14 series...

John

Pic of an original LE-14C in an Apollo I sold to Phil. Foam is clearly attached to back.

http://www.largescaleonline.com/eimages/lsolpics/Team_Member_Pics/toddalin/Apollo3.jpg

[johnaec]

None of my new LE14A's came with surrounds glued to the front of the cone.All the LE14A's I've had, (8-10), have had the white lansaloy surrounds glued to the front - maybe when they switched to black they also changed the mounting method? The white surrounds also have the bulge going in, (concave from the front) - did they also change this with the black surrounds?

I've attached 2 pics of one I have here, (out of 4). This speaker has never been modified. The first is from the front - the surround is clearly on the outside. And while it may be hard to tell, the second shows the inside edge of the cone going right up to the surround:

John

[Zilch]

Checked four LE14A's here. Lansaloy surrounds on the front. Resurrounds, too.

[John's are in better shape, tho.... :p ]

[Don C]

I hate to see a picture like that being used to illustrate anything. Let's use one of mine instead.

[4313B]

Wow! I can't believe all you guys lived right there in the same state as JBL and didn't get them damn lans-a-loy surrounds replaced. You did know it was a free service for roughly ten years right? :p

I guess I've only been around the 1975 and newer LE14A's. ;)

[Zilch]

I hate to see a picture like that being used to illustrate anything. Let's use one of mine instead.Soon's kits come available, it'll get a new life here, I promise.... :thmbsup:

[johnaec]

You did know it was a free service for roughly ten years right? http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/images/smilies/tongue.gif'Guess I didn't travel in circles where that was common knowledge back then. http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/images/smilies/frown.gif They did recone a pair of mine for free in 1982 that went through a flood. The water went about halfway up the cones on a pair of S-99's I had at the time. I built new cabinets out of Finnish birch plywood, ('was working for the Grateful Dead's sound company at the time - that's all we used), then used a clear coating for a natural finish, and sanded the fronts of the lattice grilles down to natural also.

BTW - do the black surrounds now have a convex bulge, unlike the lansaloy concave bulge?

John

[4313B]

Yes. They're just like any of the other JBL transducers with the dark foam half roll surround.

[edgewound]

All the LE14A's I've had, (8-10), have had the white lansaloy surrounds glued to the front - maybe when they switched to black they also changed the mounting method? The white surrounds also have the bulge going in, (concave from the front) - did they also change this with the black surrounds?

I've attached 2 pics of one I have here, (out of 4). This speaker has never been modified. The first is from the front - the surround is clearly on the outside. And while it may be hard to tell, the second shows the inside edge of the cone going right up to the surround:

John

Wow...thanks Johnaec...I'v actually been proved right by photo evidence....Thanks to Zilch and Don C too!

[leo_66]

For what it's worth I have talked to a few guys that have used the after market 2245 kits and they have claimed that they sounded just as good, In fact didn't someone do some testing on a aftermarket recone and state that the specs were correct???

By the way for a JBL recone kit you are looking at $200 plus:blah:

Hello, did you remember the aftermarket recone kit brand's name?

Thanks
Leonardo

[leo_66]

I had a pair of 2235 with after market kit's, they sounded better than the original 2235 cones. I tested them in a 8 cubic foot box. There was less boom and were very smooth.

slxrti

Hello, did you remember the aftermarket recone kit brand's name?

Thanks
Leonardo

[boputnam]

I try to post a picture of my speakers , but so far no luck any inputSend them in an email to: LH Treasurer ([email protected]). I'll add them for you.

FWIW, here is a picture of the two iterations of 2245H I know of:

[cohearent]

Hi Bo and crew,

I have probably had 20) 2245s over the years. It is still my favorite subwoofer, and in my opinion the best ever made. Can't tell from your pic, but there is a third variation. There were two versions of the early one (with the extra rings going close to the dust cap). One had white aquaplas on the back of the cone the later versions must use a mass ring or thicker cone. When I had my original 1985 vintage 2245Hs reconed in the '90s I thought at first they had used the wrong cones because there was no aquaplas.

Best,

Kev

[4313B]

There was a "bad" vendor in there at one point. The later kits use black aquaplas on the back.

[robertbartsch]

I'm picking up a couple of newly re-coned 2245s on Saturday.

So, the aquaplas should be black and the cones should be grey; what else is relevant for a newly OEM coned 2245?

Thx...

[JBL 4645]

Checked four LE14A's here. Lansaloy surrounds on the front. Resurrounds, too.
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=12239&stc=1&d=1137285029
[John's are in better shape, tho.... :p ]

It reminds me of Mission Impossible. This cone will self-destruct in 10 seconds. :D

This is an interesting thread on the different coloured cones. It would be easy if they had bold coloured lettering pasted onto the pictures saying which ones are good and which ones are bad to avoid.

[dr_gallup]

Just found this site, looks like a ton of technical expertise here.

I've got a 2245H in a 12 cubic foot enclosure I built about 25 years ago. The surround rotted away several years ago & I just quit using it. Now I'm setting up a home theater and I want to bring it back to life. I bought a Parts Express kit. So far I've just removed the gasket and cleaned all the old foam off the frame & cone. That in itself took quite awhile. I'm at the point where the instructions say to cut off the dust cap and shim the voice coil to center it during the foam gluing. I'm a bit nervous about slicing into it so I thought I'd see if I can get any advice from some one who has been there before.

I came across the My Audio Addiction kit on ebay that claims you don't have to remove the dust cap and that this is the best way. It does seem to me that the spider on these speakers should keep the voice coil centered. By the way, mine has always been downward firing so I don't think there should be any sag in the spider.

Any advice much appreciated!

[Don Mascali]

This is a very old thread, I would start a new one.

Read this:
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?469-Resurround-Step-by-step


There are a bunch of step by step instructions.


And welcome aboard, this is a great Forum and a lot of very knowledgable people.

[pos]

Beside Rick Cobbs' kits, here is an alternative way to do it:
http://www.geocities.jp/arai401204/Experiments/Diaphragm_Repair/JBL2245-Dia.html

[BMWCCA]

Beside Rick Cobbs' kits, here is an alternative way to do it:

I think you forgot your smiley!

Take your pick: :banghead: :no: :crying: :spchless: :rotfl: :no_wag: :no: :shocking: :scold: :eek:

[pos]

The result is impressive and the Fs is very close to the original.
This solution certainly does not work for all drivers, but when there is no "flat" part in the surround (for example between the cone and the half roll) there is absolutely no reason why this should not work exactly as expected, especially with large diameter drivers.
The author of this page is Yuichi Arai, not exactly a jerk.

[Flodstroem]

If you have purchased a new surround for the speaker then you could do it this way:

Remove all the old surround, both on the cone and the frame. Then clean the frame with some glue-remover.

Now, glue the new surround on back of the cone. Be very careful to center the surround exactly behind the cone and watch for the whole foam roll should be on the outside of the cone, the more exact the more easily for to do the next step.

You have to check over the glued foam (on the rear of the cone) for several times before in cures doe to it often would like to come of because the glue is water based and doesnt dries quickly.
When the foam surround has ben installed on the rear of cone and the glue has dried (normally the day after) then you are ready for the next step: gluing the foam surround to the speaker frame.

The best way to do it is to put glue on both sides, eg. both on the cone and then on the frame before letting them come together. This ensures that there will not be any places left without any glue.

When you put the two items together, do it carefully and not with force. Watch out for rubbing in the center of cone. Many people doing this work also uses a low frequency signal (25-35 Hz) connected to the speaker (also I do it) so the cone could freely move back and force (some millimeters). This is for to let the cone to center properly before the glue begins to dry.

In this stage you could fine-center the cone (eg, the voice coil) by means of some movements of the centering of the foam surround.: If you put your finger (approx in 4-6 places, one after the other), very light to the edge of the foam roll and listen for rubbing in the center of the cone you vill get an idea of if the surround (eg. voice coil) are centered or not. If not, well then the cone will make a rubbing sound more easily on one side than from the opposite side. If this is the case, then you could slide the loose cone carefully to the side where you finger made the rubbing. Then/or, if everything is fine then you could start to press the foam surround down all the way round to the frame and whole time, watch for rubbing.

The low frequency signal can be "on" in the moments described here and you also need to do several checks for the gluing areas so they dont come apart before the glue has cured/dried. About 2 days after the last gluing, the speaker could be checked mounted in the enclosure.
You could also take a look in this thred:
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?5081-quot-Worst-refoam-job-EVER-quot-rescue-project

(also take a lock at my avatar ;) )

[baldrick]

Is it true that JBL doesn't have any recones left for the 2245h?

I just ordred a recone for my 2245h and the Norwegian distributor said that this was the very last they had and that they couldn't get any more from JBL...

[Robh3606]

The result is impressive and the Fs is very close to the original.


That's what he got. There is not guarantee that's what I would get when all is said and done. The real issue is unless you have the means to re-measure the T/S parameters you won't know how close you are to the original. Yeah it will work but I wouldn't do it as long as there are foam surrounds are around.

Rob:)

[pos]

That's what he got. There is not guarantee that's what I would get when all is said and done. The real issue is unless you have the means to re-measure the T/S parameters you won't know how close you are to the original.
That is also the case with foam kits (after all non of them are OEM).
For example some appear to be thicker than the orginal (see Guido experience with foam 10" kits).

[dr_gallup]

This is a very old thread, I would start a new one.

Read this:
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?469-Resurround-Step-by-step

There are a bunch of step by step instructions.

And welcome aboard, this is a great Forum and a lot of very knowledgable people.

Thanks for that link, very good info. Any idea where I can get just the 30 Hz CD? I've already got the surround kit. Since it came with 2 surrounds, I think I'll try it first without cutting out the dust cap. If that doesn't work, I can try again with shims.

What's the life expectancy on these new surrounds? I understand they use a different grade of plastic.

[svollmer]

Hi Bo and crew,

I have probably had 20) 2245s over the years. It is still my favorite subwoofer, and in my opinion the best ever made. Can't tell from your pic, but there is a third variation. There were two versions of the early one (with the extra rings going close to the dust cap). One had white aquaplas on the back of the cone the later versions must use a mass ring or thicker cone. When I had my original 1985 vintage 2245Hs reconed in the '90s I thought at first they had used the wrong cones because there was no aquaplas.

Best,

Kev

For reference (if it's of help), I posted some information on my 2245H's and the differences between them, along with a couple pictures. http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?26795-2245H-foam-ring-kit-wanted&p=271110&highlight=#post271110


http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=43004&stc=1&d=1259320240

[svollmer]

Thanks for that link, very good info. Any idea where I can get just the 30 Hz CD? I've already got the surround kit. Since it came with 2 surrounds, I think I'll try it first without cutting out the dust cap. If that doesn't work, I can try again with shims.

What's the life expectancy on these new surrounds? I understand they use a different grade of plastic.

Do it without removing the dustcaps; I've done tons this way with no problem. Send me a PM if you need a 30Hz CD. I think I have an extra laying around I can mail you.

[ivica]

The result is impressive and the Fs is very close to the original.
This solution certainly does not work for all drivers, but when there is no "flat" part in the surround (for example between the cone and the half roll) there is absolutely no reason why this should not work exactly as expected, especially with large diameter drivers.
The author of this page is Yuichi Arai, not exactly a jerk.

Concerning http://www.geocities.jp/arai401204/Experiments/Diaphragm_Repair/JBL2245-Dia.html
something about Fs and Vas before and after 're-foaming' is unusual, not consistent .
Well, may be the "small signal response" is good, but do not forget that 2245 has Xmax (amplitude) of about 9mm (0.35"). I am not sure that such , almost flat 'foam' would allow such large cone movements. May be some kind of SHD and THD measurements would give interesting results.
As http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/4345.pdf is declared, THD has to be less then 1% "under about 100W input power" , concerning the data that would correspond to 114 dB SPL at 1m.

[pos]

The surrounbd is not flat at all.
Look at picture #11
http://www.geocities.jp/arai401204/Experiments/Diaphragm_Repair/Diaphragm0016.JPG

[dr_gallup]

There is a guy on ebay selling a pair of 2245's for $300 buy it now price. The thing is they have been reconed with 2240 kits. I know the 2240 surround is not foam like the 2245. So what does that do to the speaker? Change the response, excursion limit?

Is this a deal or a red headed stepchild? :confused:

[yggdrasil]

The 2240 and 2245 share hardware (same basket).

Reconing a 2245 basket with a 2240 kit makes it a 2240.

http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/2240.pdf

[dr_gallup]

So it becomes a PA speaker with higher SPL and lose 1/2 an octave off the bottom end. No thanks. But thanks for the info. I just bought lgvenable (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/member.php?1791-lgvenable)'s 2245H.

[dr_gallup]

Do it without removing the dustcaps; I've done tons this way with no problem. Send me a PM if you need a 30Hz CD. I think I have an extra laying around I can mail you.

I got the 30 Hz CD from svolmer (many thanks) and the surround replacement itself went fine. Just one problem. While playing the 30 Hz CD it was immediately obvious that this speaker has other problems. There is a rattling noise (NOT voice coil rubbing) that gets worse with increasing amplitude. I'm guessing something in the voice coil (the former?) is loose or partially separated. My short term fix was to buy lgvenable (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/member.php?1791-lgvenable)'s 2245H which I hope to have this weekend.

So my original 2245H can now be a guinea pig for further surgery. What are my options? Obviously a full recone would solve the problem but as I understand it, original factory kits are no longer available. Are there good quality aftermarket kits? Are there any alternatives short of a full recone? I've got a replacement center cap so I'm tempted to cut it open and see if I can get a little superglue on the offending part. What are my chances of success? Any other ideas?

[JeffW]

Obviously a full recone would solve the problem but as I understand it, original factory kits are no longer available.

They are still listed as available at Orange County. I'd get in touch with Edgewound and see what he says before I'd jump to any availability conclusions.

[baldrick]

They are still listed as available at Orange County. I'd get in touch with Edgewound and see what he says before I'd jump to any availability conclusions.

I'm pretty sure many companies will still have them in stock for a while, but what I was told is that it's not possible to order new ones from JBL so eventually they will be unavailable.

[ivica]

I got the 30 Hz CD from svolmer (many thanks) and the surround replacement itself went fine. Just one problem. While playing the 30 Hz CD it was immediately obvious that this speaker has other problems. There is a rattling noise (NOT voice coil rubbing) that gets worse with increasing amplitude. ...........

So my original 2245H can now be a guinea pig for further surgery. What are my options? Obviously a full recone would solve the problem?........
Any other ideas?
My be you can carefully remove the whole cone (with spider- not to destroy). I am not sure that the surround would survive (but may be can) and after that you can get the final conclusion. May be some piece of plate-hole-foam-cover went into the coil gap. Have a good luck.

[dr_gallup]

I cut out the dustcap today. I don't see any problem in the bond between the aluminum bobbin and the cone. Still have the rattle so it must be on the other side of the voice coil under the spider.

[Robh3606]

I have a reconned 2225 core that also has a rattle. Try picking up the driver and giving it a little shake. I have something non magnetic floating around in the basket under the spider or under the gap in the magnet itself.

Rob:)

[jerv]

.... While playing the 30 Hz CD it was immediately obvious that this speaker has other problems. There is a rattling noise (NOT voice coil rubbing) that gets worse with increasing amplitude. I'm guessing something in the voice coil (the former?) is loose or partially separated...

Maybe the leads from terminals to voice coils crashing into the cone at larger excursions?

[yggdrasil]

Maybe the leads from terminals to voice coils crashing into the cone at larger excursions?
I had exactly that problem with one of my 2245's. After shortening the leads the problem was gone...

[ivica]

I cut out the dustcap today. I don't see any problem in the bond between the aluminum bobbin and the cone. Still have the rattle so it must be on the other side of the voice coil under the spider.
May the voice coil was overheated, but, unfortunately the whole cone has to be removed. May be some other member can suggest what would be the best way, and what to use for softening the glue on the spider side and the foam side, in order keep them 'alive'.

[dr_gallup]

I have a reconned 2225 core that also has a rattle. Try picking up the driver and giving it a little shake. I have something non magnetic floating around in the basket under the spider or under the gap in the magnet itself.

Rob:)
Thanks for the ideas guys.

What ever is causing the rattle is not floating around loose. It's not the leads either. I can hear the rattle at low & high amplitude, obviously gets louder at high. It's interesting to stick your head right inside the speaker at ~1/2" peak to peak travel! :blink:

I suspect it's time for the full recone. JeffW mentioned "Orange County" as a source for factory kits. Orange County what? Can you give a link?

[JeffW]

I suspect it's time for the full recone. JeffW mentioned "Orange County" as a source for factory kits. Orange County what? Can you give a link?

I just check Orange County Speaker (http://www.speakerrepair.com/ocsrepairprice.html) as a handy reference to see if they list a particular kit as being available.

But they won't sell you a kit, JBL factory kits are supposed to be installed by JBL authorized repair shops.

I also mentioned edgewound. (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/member.php?2021-edgewound) He is Upland Loudspeaker Service (http://www.uplandloudspeaker.com/) and posts here, also an authorized JBL shop. He did a pair of 2245s for me and the work is top notch.

[Eaulive]

I can see the former has been rubbing on the pole piece, the marks are very obvious.

I also don't remember about an aluminum former on the 2245 :blink:

[Allanvh5150]

I can see the former has been rubbing on the pole piece, the marks are very obvious.

I also don't remember about an aluminum former on the 2245 :blink:

I will second that.

Allan.

[ivica]

I also don't remember about an aluminum former on the 2245 :blink:
I agree with you, on my coils from 2245 aluminum is not visible. or it may have been painted.

[dr_gallup]

I can see the former has been rubbing on the pole piece, the marks are very obvious.

I also don't remember about an aluminum former on the 2245 :blink:

Yes, the former did rub when the original surround was disintegrating, that's what caused me to take it out of service many years ago. It is not rubbing now. I was able to move the surround while gluing and could easily distinguish between the rattle sound that is always there and the voice coil rubbing sound when the surround was off center.

I'm not sure that the aluminum is the actual former that the coil is wound on, there may be a layer of plastic or cardboard between the copper winding and the aluminum ring. I was reading somewhere (here or on JBL Professional) that the aluminum ring is called a shorting ring and is used to reduce high order distortion harmonics. The high frequency components of distortion will induce strong eddy currents that damp out those frequencies. I can assure you that this is original construction from ~1985. This speaker was bought new by me, has never been apart before & is clearly marked 2245 both on the back of the cone and the magnet structure.

PS this is a pretty old cone, the back is white.

[Allanvh5150]

The shorting ring you refer to is actually part of the pole piece and not the voice coil.

[Eaulive]

I can assure you that this is original construction from ~1985. This speaker was bought new by me, has never been apart before & is clearly marked 2245 both on the back of the cone and the magnet structure.

PS this is a pretty old cone, the back is white.

So it is original, I just never saw one like this (not that I've seen thousands anyways ;) )
And yes, the aluminum shorting ring is on the pole piece, not part of the voice coil

[dr_gallup]

The shorting ring moves with the voice coil it's not fixed to the magnet structure. It could not reduce distortion if it didn't move.

[grumpy]

Google "technical note V1N22" JBL

[Robh3606]

The aluminum shorting ring doesn't move at all it's burried under the gap. SFG magnet shorting ring not Dual Differential Drive, it works but helping to stabilize and make the flux equal on both sides of the gap top and bottom.

Rob:)

[ivica]

The aluminum shorting ring doesn't move at all it's burried under the gap. SFG magnet shorting ring not Dual Differential Drive, it works but helping to stabilize and make the flux equal on both sides of the gap top and bottom.

Rob:)

Interesting reading about the influence of the "short ring"
http://diy-audio.narod.ru/litr/FaradayRingsVoiceCoilImpedance.pdf

[dr_gallup]

The aluminum shorting ring doesn't move at all it's burried under the gap. SFG magnet shorting ring not Dual Differential Drive, it works but helping to stabilize and make the flux equal on both sides of the gap top and bottom.

Rob:)
That's the construction on newer drivers, not the 2245. How could there be rubbing marks on the aluminum ring on my old 2245 if it did not move with the voice coil? Believe me, it moves. Maybe it's incorrect to call it a shorting ring but I don't know what else to call it.

[Robh3606]

That's the construction on newer drivers, not the 2245.

It doesn't matter. The aluminum flux ring is in the same location. Have a read of the attached link

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?4746-JBL-Technical-Notes-Volume-1-Number-9


How could there be rubbing marks on the aluminum ring on my old 2245 if it did not move with the voice coil?

Without the outer foam ring the whole cone tilts and rubs. The rub marks could easilly be from the former rubbing against the top plate and pole piece. The aluminum you can see is part of the VC form not the stabilization ring. The voice coil form obviously moves.

Rob:)

[Eaulive]

That's the construction on newer drivers, not the 2245. How could there be rubbing marks on the aluminum ring on my old 2245 if it did not move with the voice coil? Believe me, it moves. Maybe it's incorrect to call it a shorting ring but I don't know what else to call it.

That's where the misunderstanding comes from, the part that has the rubbing marks is not the shorting ring, it's the voice coil former, so of course it moves :D

The shorting ring is deep into the magnet structure and is fixed, coincidentally your VC former is also made of aluminum, that's the confusion ;)

[ivica]

That's the construction on newer drivers, not the 2245. How could there be rubbing marks on the aluminum ring on my old 2245 if it did not move with the voice coil? Believe me, it moves. Maybe it's incorrect to call it a shorting ring but I don't know what else to call it.

As seen from E120 technical data
http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?14501-E120-8&p=148781&viewfull=1#post148781
there is seems some kind of aluminum foil in the former, I expect mainly to reduce coil inductivity (Le) that would become of importance on higher frequency (over 1kHz), but concerning that 2245 is LF driver, such aluminum former had mechanical and electrical "purpose",
but on the figure of 2245 cone kit aluminum foil is not visible

[dr_gallup]

It doesn't matter. The aluminum flux ring is in the same location. Have a read of the attached link

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?4746-JBL-Technical-Notes-Volume-1-Number-9



Without the outer foam ring the whole cone tilts and rubs. The rub marks could easilly be from the former rubbing against the top plate and pole piece. The aluminum you can see is part of the VC form not the stabilization ring. The voice coil form obviously moves.

Rob:)

Thanks for that link, it really explains what's going on. :)

[boputnam]

Revisiting an old thread...

In the past few months, the response of the 2245H's in my 4345's (stock) seem to have improved subtly, yet wonderfully. I've not changed a thing in my system for a number of years; and, I'm not a heavy user, being as I'm frequently out on tour. So, maybe this "extended break-in" is just that. Whatever it is, their tonality is ever-more remarkable.

We had dinner guests last night, and after all the social folderol, we got down to some serious listening. My neighbors had never heard such things as what the 2245H's produce - they left carrying their jaws. And, it was at maybe 75dB.

Just sayin'...:thmbsup:

[BMWCCA]

Revisiting an old thread...
they left carrying their jaws. And, it was at maybe 75dB.

Just sayin'...:thmbsup:

Nice to see your name on a post.

Sweetness happens.

Count your blessings!

[Ian Mackenzie]

Revisiting an old thread...

In the past few months, the response of the 2245H's in my 4345's (stock) seem to have improved subtly, yet wonderfully. I've not changed a thing in my system for a number of years; and, I'm not a heavy user, being as I'm frequently out on tour. So, maybe this "extended break-in" is just that. Whatever it is, their tonality is ever-more remarkable.

We had dinner guests last night, and after all the social folderol, we got down to some serious listening. My neighbors had never heard such things as what the 2245H's produce - they left carrying their jaws. And, it was at maybe 75dB.

Just sayin'...:thmbsup:

I think you had the same experience when you first heard them at Ken's place mate.

How about a recent pic.

Ian

[ivica]

Revisiting an old thread...

In the past few months, the response of the 2245H's in my 4345's (stock) seem to have improved subtly, yet wonderfully. I've not changed a thing in my system for a number of years; and, I'm not a heavy user, being as I'm frequently out on tour. So, maybe this "extended break-in" is just that. Whatever it is, their tonality is ever-more remarkable.

We had dinner guests last night, and after all the social folderol, we got down to some serious listening. My neighbors had never heard such things as what the 2245H's produce - they left carrying their jaws. And, it was at maybe 75dB.

Just sayin'...:thmbsup:

I am afraid that "refoamimg 2245" would become soon, so be care not to destroy inner parts. I have almost the same experience with my 2231A drivers. Unfortunately there are no original refoam-kit for either 2245 or 2231 drivers. Most of the AF refoams do not sound as previous originals. Another problem: even the recon-kits do not sounds as originals....

[boputnam]

I think you had the same experience when you first heard them at Ken's place mate.:p


How about a recent pic.Can do - but I'm headed off for a few days, so on my return. Not much has changed - I must have found a really nice high plateau...

[maxserg]

That's the construction on newer drivers, not the 2245. How could there be rubbing marks on the aluminum ring on my old 2245 if it did not move with the voice coil? Believe me, it moves. Maybe it's incorrect to call it a shorting ring but I don't know what else to call it.

From what I had in the past: two 12 inches that I did buy (cheap) but I hat to recone them (myself) with original parts from JBL. They had a Mass Ring, JBL did that for their studio woofers so the mass ring reduces efficiency a lot but makes the woofer going much lower than let's say a K-120 (guitar speaker). That mass ring was glued to the inner side of the voice coil, near the dustcap.

Hope that it gives you some light:)

[Carl_Huff]

I know that it is considered blasphemy here to consider such things but ...

Since JBL is no longer offering kits to rebuild the 2245H driver, does anyone here have first hand experience with the McKenzie kits? Assuming that a JBL kit is not available who is the preferred fallback vendor?

http://reconekits.com/jbl2245h8ohmreconekit.aspx
_____________
Best Regards,
Carl Huff

[grumpy]

JBL is no longer offering kits to rebuild the 2245H

Is that, in fact, true? C8R2245H seems to -not- be NLA ($276 as of April 26)

[DogBox]

Still have the rattle so it must be on the other side of the voice coil under the spider.

I had a guy sell me some 2225's where one was 'no go' ... "buzzes.." ...turned out that whoever did the recone hadn't done
a very good job making sure 'the spider was glued down properly'.... flapped and buzzed as the cone moved! took me a while...!

Steve