Bolt hole template needed

[Tom Loizeaux]

Does anyone know where I can get a Bolt Hole Template for the JBL 2242H?
I've tried marking through the holes and measuring to find the exact centers, but they all are off ever-so-slightly. A factory template SHOULD work.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,

Tom

[edgewound]

Does anyone know where I can get a Bolt Hole Template for the JBL 2242H?
I've tried marking through the holes and measuring to find the exact centers, but they all are off ever-so-slightly. A factory template SHOULD work.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,

Tom

Use your 2242...or any other JBL 18" as the template. Set it in your driver cutout, then use a pilot point(works best) drill bit (the same size as the bolt hole) as a center punch. Lift out the 18 and then drill the pilot impression. Works very well.

[Phil H]

Use your 2242...or any other JBL 18" as the template. Set it in your driver cutout, then use a pilot point(works best) drill bit (the same size as the bolt hole) as a center punch. Lift out the 18 and then drill the pilot impression. Works very well.
Edgewound,
Have you ever tried to mark the hole's location with a transfer punch rather than a drill bit? Harbor Freight sells a cheap set that is pretty good for occasional use. They cost $10.00 for a set of 32 sizes (1/16" - 1/2"). http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=3577

[edgewound]

Haven't tried that, Phil...I just used what I had around the shop...thanks for the info, I'll have to check it out.

[johnaec]

...transfer punch...Those are the BEST! When I worked at a cabinet shop I couldn't've lived without them!

John

[Tom Loizeaux]

Edgewound,
Have you ever tried to mark the hole's location with a transfer punch rather than a drill bit? Harbor Freight sells a cheap set that is pretty good for occasional use...]

Thanks for the tip. I just ordered a set!
1/4" bolts and T nuts require exact alignment. After trying several times to get correct line-up and never quite able to get them dead-on, I decided to do it the right way.
Thanks again for the tip.

Tom

[rek50]

If you want to get "Fussy" with the job, transfer ONE hole first. Drill and secure, say at 12 O'Clock position. Transfer the next hole at 6 O'Clock position, drill and secure. Now that the driver can't/won't move, transfer the rest. You are allowed to wrap masking tape around the punch, for a snug fit, if the hole/punch is off a bit. AND, you must hold your tongue in the proper position, at all times...

[toddalin]

Just don't hit the speaker. :blink: I can't tell you how many times I've cringed and got that sinking feeling in my stomach whenever my screwdriver has slipped and touched a speaker cone, cap, or surround. :banghead: Luckily, its never amounted to more than a small dent. :(

[edgewound]

If you want to get "Fussy" with the job, transfer ONE hole first. Drill and secure, say at 12 O'Clock position. Transfer the next hole at 6 O'Clock position, drill and secure. Now that the driver can't/won't move, transfer the rest. You are allowed to wrap masking tape around the punch, for a snug fit, if the hole/punch is off a bit. AND, you must hold your tongue in the proper position, at all times...

That's actually how I do it...I use a JBL frame as a template and just drill. I secure 2 opposing screw holes with drywall screws so the frame doesn't move and drill away. A basket from a Peavey Black Widow works good too. Sometimes we don't always share exactly how we cheat so as not to get others into bad habits when DIY'ing...I have the luxury(?) of having the blown baskets at my shop, so it makes that sort of thing easy.