Getting things ready for a recone project

[Krischu]

I'm starting my first recone in my life. Victim will be a D120F,grey with an orange, more into reddish label plate on the magnet.

1. How can I tell whether a cone is original or already a reconed cone?
My cone (the cone to repair) is all paper.

2. How can I successfully remove the old cone, spider gasket and
surround ? Sure one can tear it out using brute force but maybe
there are good reasons to do it with keeping most of the parts intact.
E.g. to obtain the exact distances between coil, cone and spider in the
repair process.

3. How do I aftertreat the gasket?

4. What glue do I use to attach the coil to the cone?

5. What glue for the aluminum dome (dust cap)? I see that there is
some black (epoxy) glue being used often? Noone could glue
these dust cap as perfect as JBL themselves. All recones I was able to
unveil as such showed a more or less smeared or jittery glue traces
while original domes look near perfectly glued.

6. What glue for covering the voice coil wires?

7. What glue for the spider to the cone? Spider to the basket?

8. I see some "wet" covering on reconed JBLs on the surround. The cone
and textile surround I received is "dry" but I understand it is a good idea
to soak it with some permanently elastic liquid/glue (term?)

9. What do I assemble/glue outside the speaker? Do I leave off the dust
cap or do I assemble everything outside the speaker?

10. Is it recommended to build a holder or template or some kind of fixture
construction?

11. In which order does one proceed? My idea is to start with the cone/voice
coil connection.

But I think it would be a good idea to build a fixture for
a) making the voice coil a perfect circle shape
b) aligning it exactly in relation to the cone.

12. How long the tinsel wires? In what shape hang them? Under what angle
solder them into the lugs?

13. Centering process of the voice coil?


Questions over questions. I will stop here for now and I'm expecting your gracious answers.

--
Christoph

[pelly3s]

first off from the sound of things you dont have a real jbl kit but an aftermarket from someone like MWA or Image. what i use for most assemblies is a 2 to 1 expoy to attach the spider, coil and cone. to treat the edge i wait until the whole kit is inplace to do so. to remove the old kit use an x-acto knife and cut carefully around the outside of the spider and cone. I glue the dustcaps on with a black CP Moyen glue that Electro-Voice supplies. I am not sure of the number though. leave the dust cap off until everything is in place. to center the voice coil you want to shim to evenly around the inside of the coil. to attach the kit to the frame I use CP Moyen RS-3087. the shim can be made of anything thin that wont stick too much if glue comes in contact with it.

it is definately a process that should be researched throughly before you attempt to do it.


I'm starting my first recone in my life. Victim will be a D120F,grey with an orange, more into reddish label plate on the magnet.

1. How can I tell whether a cone is original or already a reconed cone?
My cone (the cone to repair) is all paper.

2. How can I successfully remove the old cone, spider gasket and
surround ? Sure one can tear it out using brute force but maybe
there are good reasons to do it with keeping most of the parts intact.
E.g. to obtain the exact distances between coil, cone and spider in the
repair process.

3. How do I aftertreat the gasket?

4. What glue do I use to attach the coil to the cone?

5. What glue for the aluminum dome (dust cap)? I see that there is
some black (epoxy) glue being used often? Noone could glue
these dust cap as perfect as JBL themselves. All recones I was able to
unveil as such showed a more or less smeared or jittery glue traces
while original domes look near perfectly glued.

6. What glue for covering the voice coil wires?

7. What glue for the spider to the cone? Spider to the basket?

8. I see some "wet" covering on reconed JBLs on the surround. The cone
and textile surround I received is "dry" but I understand it is a good idea
to soak it with some permanently elastic liquid/glue (term?)

9. What do I assemble/glue outside the speaker? Do I leave off the dust
cap or do I assemble everything outside the speaker?

10. Is it recommended to build a holder or template or some kind of fixture
construction?

11. In which order does one proceed? My idea is to start with the cone/voice
coil connection.

But I think it would be a good idea to build a fixture for
a) making the voice coil a perfect circle shape
b) aligning it exactly in relation to the cone.

12. How long the tinsel wires? In what shape hang them? Under what angle
solder them into the lugs?

13. Centering process of the voice coil?


Questions over questions. I will stop here for now and I'm expecting your gracious answers.

--
Christoph

[Krischu]

first off from the sound of things you dont have a real jbl kit but an aftermarket from someone like MWA or Image.
...


Thanks for the quick reply and the valuable information. Are there actually "real jbl kits" any longer?

[pelly3s]

yes there are real jbl kits but you cant buy them as a consumer unless you get them on ebay or from someone who is kind enough to sell them

[Krischu]

yes there are real jbl kits but you cant buy them as a consumer unless you get them on ebay or from someone who is kind enough to sell them

Now guess what my next question will be :)

Well, I bought these aftermarket kits now (actually they were not sold as kits but I put them together on recommendation of the vendor) and I will go through the procedure of reconing with what I have now.

But maybe next time - if there'll be a next time - I'll come back on this.

So is it ok to leave the edges "dry" as they are now or is there some liquid to soak them or some kind of elastic silicone rubber?

[pelly3s]

the surround you need to treat. i use a compound from EV or the old Altec stuff I dont know what else is avalible

[Krischu]

the surround you need to treat. i use a compound from EV or the old Altec stuff I dont know what else is avalible

I'd like to know a source where to buy these treats and CP Moyen glue from EV.

[Krischu]

I'd like to know a source where to buy these treats and CP Moyen glue from EV.

Can anyone be so kind giving me some sources where to buy these compounds?
If it is a trade secret, then I suggest sending a private email. Consider that I'm over the pond and would never represent any competition to your business.

[pelly3s]

i get my glues direct from the dealers, suchs as JBL or EV

[Guido]

Ask GordonW (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/member.php?u=161) for the surround treatment goop.

[edgewound]

The glue you get from me this time. Next time I'll gladly do an ORIGINAL recone for you.

If you want to waste your first recone kit, go on and try yourself :p

You tell 'em Guido...I'm with you. We don't want no stinking aftermarket recones.:banghead:

[pelly3s]

i remember my first recone kit that come completely in peices i screwed up the allignment of the coil and spider pretty bad because i was rushing. to learn to recone its much easier to go the way i did start with drop in kits like JBLs then work on kits that have the spider attached to the coil already then work toward the pile of parts. the hardest thing is making the dust cap look good thats an art form all in itself

[Guido]

.....the hardest thing is making the dust cap look good thats an art form all in itself

You are sooooo right. Especially if you do not have a turntable and a professional glue gun.
I turn the speaker by hand and the glue gun is simply the tube in which the glue comes :(

[Tom Loizeaux]

... the hardest thing is making the dust cap look good thats an art form all in itself

If you put the driver on a turntable, face-up, you have a better chance of getting a smooth, even flow when applying the glue for the dust cap. Use a slow, even turning, without stopping. The turntable also makes the other steps easier too.

Tom

[paragon]

Guido, which speed ? 33 1/3, 45, or 78 ?? :D

[Guido]

Guido, which speed ? 33 1/3, 45, or 78 ?? :D

Depending on your age :D :D :D

I still can use 45 ;)

[Flodstroem]

Guido, You should definitely not use 78 :D

I did make a rotary table out of some good E-bay stuff I found a year ago.
I built it out of a small working table (ca 16" x 16") I had and which was seldom in use. On e-bay I bought a perfect DC-motor with perfect gearbox including a hall tacometer and a DC-brake. You can still found this rotary table motor at the e-bay auction. I could post a link to this auction if any would be interested (this seller has still a lot of them for sale/auction). I also bought a DC-motor drive and with this equipment it is possible to change the revolution of the round table plate from ca 1 rpm to 15 rpm.

The motor assembly does not need any axes, drive belts ore pulleys because you get all that is needed built in the gearbox. It also incorporates a very big mounting plate (5" I think it was) for the table mount.

If of any interests I could post pics (detailed) of it later

My first job at this home made rotary table was the gluing of a dust cap to a newly re-coned LE-125 (12", 12 ohms, for a JBL K2). The result was professional quality and it was not possible to see any difference between the newly re-coned speaker and the original JBL factory assembled speaker. :blah:

Regards
;)

[Guido]

I would be damned interested why my recone procedure was deleted. :bs:
The whole field service manual can still be downloaded from Ralfs server so what the heck?

This is no fun!

If this board wants to loose one of the seniors go on admins..........

[Zilch]

This one?

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=12019&stc=1

http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZvetracerQQhtZ-1

[Flodstroem]

This one?
:yes:
Yes its the one I used for my rotary table. You can see that its a high quality product. And the nice seller ships it very well packed. I payed less for it that time. Now it had become more expensive ($ 50 ca).
:hyp:
Regards